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Oooooooohhhh Noooooooo
Posted: Wed Nov 11, 2009 9:29 am
by Wozza244
I have a V8 chevy diesel 6.5L in my cruiser, on my way home yesty it boiled, possibly was hot for less than 5 min, it never lost any power i pulled over and refilled the radiator, the poofter is spitting water out at a rate of about 1 Litre per 100km, im getting this looked at.
Thismorning it started ok, went down the street, it sat for about an hr and i went to start it and the starter threw in and it just clicked like there was hydraulic lock or seized.
A few clicks later it started with no apparent probs, would this be cause of the boil yesty or would my starter be on its way out..
Posted: Wed Nov 11, 2009 10:20 am
by howesy
Thermostat coult be stuck. That makes water pi*s out of the radiator
Posted: Wed Nov 11, 2009 11:04 am
by kingchevy
9 times out of ten if you cook a 6.5 you will at least crack a head mine was leaking water into the cylinder when it sat and made it hard to start altough this may not be what is wrong with yours...
blowing back through the radiator is bad I would say atleast you have done a head gasket........
Posted: Wed Nov 11, 2009 12:11 pm
by jonamaphone1
if its spitting out the overflow it just means that the coolant is boiling. not specific to a thermostat. it just means SOMETHING in your cooling system is not doing its job properly.
no clues on not starting properly
Posted: Wed Nov 11, 2009 1:20 pm
by paulm958
just at a guess, head or headgasket or perhaps small crack in bore, it was probably on the way out before you cooked it, it just gets worse as either the crack or gasket age, which has lead to the overheating due to the use of more water, and as for the starter when you went down the street and no doubt engine warm either the crack or headgasket opens up allowing water into the cylinder giving momentary lockup after the engine is left sitting water leaks in etc, ussually after a couple of clicks it may start but ussually the problem doesnt get better
PS i hope im wrong, might be
a blocked radiator
Posted: Wed Nov 11, 2009 1:22 pm
by bad_religion_au
my vote is crack between water and exhaust passeges
Posted: Wed Nov 11, 2009 6:58 pm
by GO79
I feel for you poor fellas with those v8 chev diesels
Posted: Wed Nov 11, 2009 7:37 pm
by j dizzle
x2
v
Posted: Thu Nov 12, 2009 12:19 am
by Wozza244
Righto, good replies, cheers blokes, will try another stat and see how things go.
Hopefully it hasnt turned into anyhting too serious its only got 120 odd on the motor!
Posted: Thu Nov 12, 2009 6:34 am
by aussie blue 60
Hope it hasnt damaged the heads, cos i want to see this machine in action wozza.
Posted: Thu Nov 12, 2009 7:09 am
by brighty
Keep us updated as I got a 6.2 and always trying to get more info on these v8 deisel donks
Posted: Thu Nov 12, 2009 9:21 am
by Wozza244
brighty wrote:Keep us updated as I got a 6.2 and always trying to get more info on these v8 deisel donks
Well, i hope i havent done any damage too!!
Here is a TOP read i found, this bloke, Les Addison is a bloody champion he's like a chevy manual in a mans body
http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/show ... hp?t=23850
Posted: Sun Nov 15, 2009 6:51 pm
by Bush65
The chevy 6.2 and 6.5 diesel are notorious for the head cracking into water passages.
The long established fix is to ream out the water passage and install a sleeve that seals the crack from the water passage. The bore of the sleeve still allows water flow. The crack remains in the head but doesn't create a problem once it sealed off from the water passage.
There is a lot of information about this on USA chev diesel sites.
They use valve guides to sleeve the water passage, but something else could be made to do the same job if the particular valve guides are difficult to find locally.
They have a problem with cooling toward the rear of the heads. I can't remember if this is what causes the above mentioned cracks, or if it leads to some other issue. It is believed that steam vapour forms because of poor water flow and resulting vapour pockets prevent proper cooling.
GM fixed this in the late engines by dramatically uprating the water flow rate. The high output water pump is driven by a serpentine belt and rotates in the opposite direction so can't be easily retrofitted to earlier engines. They also have a larger thermostat housing with 2 thermostats.
Posted: Sun Nov 15, 2009 7:51 pm
by money_killer
why drive and fuck around with it and risk more damage ...........
hope its not too bad
Posted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 11:14 am
by Cluffy
Try a coke bottle test.
1:Warm engine up
2: pull off the little hose that runs from your radiator neck, below the cap, to your overflow bottle, at the overflow end
3: stick the free end of the overflow hose into a plastic bottle half filled with water, so the bottle is replacing your overflow tank.
4: run the engine. (with the rad cap on)
If there are bubbles coming from the hose inthe bottle you have a combustion gas leak into your cooling system, usually a head gasket or crack as mentioned earlier.
Good luck
Craig.
Posted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 7:58 pm
by Wozza244
Cluffy wrote:Try a coke bottle test.
1:Warm engine up
2: pull off the little hose that runs from your radiator neck, below the cap, to your overflow bottle, at the overflow end
3: stick the free end of the overflow hose into a plastic bottle half filled with water, so the bottle is replacing your overflow tank.
4: run the engine. (with the rad cap on)
If there are bubbles coming from the hose inthe bottle you have a combustion gas leak into your cooling system, usually a head gasket or crack as mentioned earlier.
Good luck
Craig.
Cheers craig, i should have updated the thread, i did that a wk ago, yep she blown head gasket or head alright.
Its getting 2 new heads next week.
Thanks for your help blokes
Posted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 10:14 pm
by craz3d
should have just gone duramax XD
Posted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 5:51 am
by bj on roids
6600