Outer Limits 4x4 Board

ok guys before i get blasted ive done a search but couldnt find anything..
ok heres a run down
tb4.2 EFI on gas, loseing about 1 liter per day, no milky oil, on water on the block, losing presure out of the radiator, get small bubles that looks like ive put detergent coming out of the radiator, highs temp was about 3/4 on the guage and runs like crap on start up..
ok now firstly would i have done any head damage, secondly who has been down this road before and how much did it cost you because im only a apperntice and money is very tight at the moment
thanks for reading guys and any help will help alot
marty

Vote 1 for a cracked sleave, had 2 mates with the same setup and the same symptoms, but hey I'm no mechanic. Gazza!

thanks for the reply gazza.. anymore votes on whats fu#ked on my car?

Just pull the head and have a look, one way or another it's coming off. If it's using that much coolant and not showing from the outside it's something internal.

You could have done some head damage, but again you aren't going to really know until it's off and you can get it tested for cracking/warping.

As said you won't know the extent of damage untill you take the head off. Foamy, bubbly stuff in radiator water is chemical reaction caused from having oil leaking into your water.

Mine blew a head gasket near no6 cylinder and cost me about $400 to have head surfaced, springs and valves replaced with heavier units (in preparation for turbo) and a good quality gasket kit. I removed and refitted with my brother and replaced every hose and hose clamp on the engine while i was at it. There's a little copper pipe for heater hoses at rear of head, driver's side. replace this too as it's very thin walled and impossible to replace without either removing head or gearbox.

If it's cracked, often they can be welded. But you won't know untill you pull it off.

This might help

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/sutra1766 ... t=#1766350

Cheers,

Micko

Buy some Bars Radiator Stop Leak or Chemiweld and put it in. I'm 90% certain it will seal it up and allow you drive it for a long time. Heaps of people have run a TB42 with a cracked head for years with Bars or chemiweld added and it stops the leak. Unbelievable how good it is at sealing stuff up.

_

disconect your coil and crank the engine over with thr rad cap off if it spits water every where than thats a head. gave you tried using bar-s-leaks its good stuff

put a leak down tester on it.It will tell you straight away if you do it right it works off pumpimg air in though the spark plug hole and pressuring one bore at a time

raptorthumper wrote:Buy some Bars Radiator Stop Leak or Chemiweld and put it in. I'm 90% certain it will seal it up and allow you drive it for a long time.

Damige has been runnin chemiweld for 2 yrs now...

bogged wrote:

raptorthumper wrote:Buy some Bars Radiator Stop Leak or Chemiweld and put it in. I'm 90% certain it will seal it up and allow you drive it for a long time.

Damige has been runnin chemiweld for 2 yrs now...

Get some seal and go, clear bottle with shavings in it. works a treat on every motor we have used it on. About to try it on our 600hp cummins signature to get it to xmas for a rebuild. Its repaired leaking water pumps, leakeing head gaskets, cracket heads,etc the most amzing was a corodded thermostat housing that was spraying water 3 ft. repaired it almost instantly and been good for a few years now.

yeah but isnt that stuff more of a tempory fix? i mean if you want to do some big long outback trips would you really feel comfortable with a seal up?

Im sure it works but is there i chance that it can give?

raptorthumper wrote:Buy some Bars Radiator Stop Leak or Chemiweld and put it in. I'm 90% certain it will seal it up and allow you drive it for a long time. Heaps of people have run a TB42 with a cracked head for years with Bars or chemiweld added and it stops the leak. Unbelievable how good it is at sealing stuff up.

_

Chemiweld is crap, does nothing but clog up water galleries with shit, if you're going to put anything in it put one or two bottles of Seal-Up in it but make sure you have the car at operating temp and run it for at least 15 mins with the Seal-up in it to let the chemicals do their thing. We have sealed inch long cracks in blocks at work with that stuff.

Chemiweld is crap, does nothing but clog up water galleries with shit, if you're going to put anything in it put one or two bottles of Seal-Up in it but make sure you have the car at operating temp and run it for at least 15 mins with the Seal-up in it to let the chemicals do their thing. We have sealed inch long cracks in blocks at work with that stuff.[/quote]

i vote for seal up as well!
fixed my blown gasket in my old tb45, got a tad warm due to a blown heater hose..
then 3months later the timingcase finally wore a hole through it..tb45 out, v8 in!

yeah i would trust it if i had to. Id carry a spare bottle though.

The mechanic put something in the big signature to seal it up, will find out in a few hours on monday if it works. If not boss wants to try seal n go before he sheds out over 40k on a new motor. This will definatly test how good it is. In 12 hrs work it will pump about 5 litres of oil into the cooling sytem when working hard around town.

If the mechanics stuff works ill find out what he used, maybe its a special blend of eggs and cracked pepper.