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Toyota Flex differences

Posted: Thu Nov 12, 2009 8:03 pm
by Struth
Pretty concise question I know...

But will a stock 80 series 3 link front suspension set up out flex a stock 4 Runner 5 link or Surf rear suspension setup?

Cheers

Posted: Thu Nov 12, 2009 8:35 pm
by chunderlicious
80 series arms flex really good, but they still have nothing on links. the surf rear even with 400mm long lowers or whatever they are will still nearly drop to verticle without shocks.

nemesis has some great pics of his before he sas'd the front and it was a 33 below the sill and the other tucked right up inside the guard.

Posted: Thu Nov 12, 2009 8:43 pm
by dumbdunce
the point of comparing front suspension on one vehicle to rear suspension on another is?

generally the 3 link setups bind and don't articulate very well. but they are good for on-road control and lateral stability on side hills.

5 links also bind though.

what are you trying to achieve?

Posted: Thu Nov 12, 2009 8:58 pm
by Struth
dumbdunce wrote:the point of comparing front suspension on one vehicle to rear suspension on another is?

generally the 3 link setups bind and don't articulate very well. but they are good for on-road control and lateral stability on side hills.

5 links also bind though.

what are you trying to achieve?
Halfway through putting 60 series diffs under my Runner.

Has 80 series RA front.

Rear was planned to be standard 4 Runner with 80 series lower arms (200mm longer) but retain the crappy 300mm Runner upper arms which severely limit droop.

Thought was 80 series RA on the rear, with spacers between the castor brackets and bushes to allow better flex before the RAs physically touch the castor bushes.

It's a big decision in this diff swap job and it's easier to mount RAs at the rear than control arms IMO, but they need to offer better flex if done right.

Cheers

Posted: Thu Nov 12, 2009 9:05 pm
by Jcas24
your probably like me and dont wanna touch the fuel tank atm. heaps of ppl are telling me to 3link the rear. but I dont wanna atm, and thinking about chasing some allpro upper arms from the states and reinforce the upper link mounts on the housing. should have alot less binding in theory.

Posted: Thu Nov 12, 2009 9:20 pm
by troopymad
wha-t your thinking of radius arms on the back?
i heard you can get bad antisquat with a radius arm setup in the rear
which will make your rear end jump up and down quite bad and the bigger the hill the worse it gets for some reason

but someone else will have a better idea

Posted: Thu Nov 12, 2009 9:25 pm
by Mr DJ
Struth, what would be wrong with longer rear upper arms as well as raised mounts on the diff to match up with the longer 80 lower arms ??

A lot less work than RA rear and would work better IMO.

Posted: Thu Nov 12, 2009 10:11 pm
by TWISTY
Struth wrote:Rear was planned to be standard 4 Runner with 80 series lower arms (200mm longer) but retain the crappy 300mm Runner upper arms which severely limit droop.
Sure its not your shocks limiting droop? I used to get heaps out of my rear. I bent the stock upper arms (from it hitting the tank etc on full droop), but once the uppers were beefed up, it was fine.

Image

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I think a standard front 80 setup will be pushing it to match that. Had heaps of rear steer but.

Posted: Thu Nov 12, 2009 10:20 pm
by Struth
troopymad wrote:wha-t your thinking of radius arms on the back?
i heard you can get bad antisquat with a radius arm setup in the rear
which will make your rear end jump up and down quite bad and the bigger the hill the worse it gets for some reason

but someone else will have a better idea
That is pretty much the sort of info I am after, reasons why I shouldn't do this.

It's a thought I had that needs to be investigated, before I choose a mounting method for the rear diff.

Cheers

Posted: Thu Nov 12, 2009 10:21 pm
by Struth
Dougster wrote:Struth, what would be wrong with longer rear upper arms as well as raised mounts on the diff to match up with the longer 80 lower arms ??

A lot less work than RA rear and would work better IMO.
I have thought of that, longer arms combined with the axle brackets angled rearward.

Cheers

Posted: Thu Nov 12, 2009 10:23 pm
by Struth
TWISTY wrote:
Struth wrote:Rear was planned to be standard 4 Runner with 80 series lower arms (200mm longer) but retain the crappy 300mm Runner upper arms which severely limit droop.
Sure its not your shocks limiting droop? I used to get heaps out of my rear. I bent the stock upper arms (from it hitting the tank etc on full droop), but once the uppers were beefed up, it was fine.

Image

Image



I think a standard front 80 setup will be pushing it to match that. Had heaps of rear steer but.
Shocks were out and I have never acheived droop like that from mine.

Perhaps one issue is that I never released the tension on the control arm bolts when it was lifted, so the bushes were already twisted in the droop position before it even flexed.

Cheers

Posted: Thu Nov 12, 2009 10:47 pm
by -Nemesis-
Long shocks and no swaybar, your rear should do the same as Twisty's.


Only mod here is Ranchos


Image

Posted: Fri Nov 13, 2009 4:25 am
by midi73
Just to and another negative to radius arms. Bunderas have radius arms in the rear, and are know for there bad rear articulation because of it.

Posted: Fri Nov 13, 2009 7:31 am
by Struth
Sounds like I should remain with plan A, extended lower arms and see what can be acheived with the uppers.

Thanks for the input.

Posted: Fri Nov 13, 2009 10:29 am
by NJV6
You could check out Pajero arms as well - they are Radius in the rear, the front chassis mounting point is different to the 80 series though as they have a pin, Range Rover style.

Good for flex, not so good for the big lifts.

Posted: Fri Nov 13, 2009 11:42 am
by oldmate
midi73 wrote:Just to and another negative to radius arms. Bunderas have radius arms in the rear, and are know for there bad rear articulation because of it.
That sucks. Can you pull one of the bolts out to get it flexing? I imagine handling wouldn't be too badly affected by it.

Posted: Sat Nov 14, 2009 12:20 am
by midi73
oldmate wrote:
midi73 wrote:Just to and another negative to radius arms. Bunderas have radius arms in the rear, and are know for there bad rear articulation because of it.
That sucks. Can you pull one of the bolts out to get it flexing? I imagine handling wouldn't be too badly affected by it.
Maybe crosslink rear! you never know, might be good.

Posted: Sat Nov 14, 2009 7:48 am
by bubs
Dougs with radius arm front sas

Image

Posted: Sat Nov 14, 2009 8:53 am
by Struth
^^ Hoping to get the same flex out of mine. Also looking at that the RAs flex pretty well really.

Cheers

Posted: Mon Nov 16, 2009 9:56 am
by bazzle
Dougster wrote:Struth, what would be wrong with longer rear upper arms as well as raised mounts on the diff to match up with the longer 80 lower arms ??

A lot less work than RA rear and would work better IMO.
AND keep the pinion angle "more" correct.

Bazzle

Posted: Mon Nov 16, 2009 12:24 pm
by Struth
bazzle wrote:
Dougster wrote:Struth, what would be wrong with longer rear upper arms as well as raised mounts on the diff to match up with the longer 80 lower arms ??

A lot less work than RA rear and would work better IMO.
AND keep the pinion angle "more" correct.

Bazzle
Yep longer diff to upper arm brackets will help offset the longer lower arms.

Cheers

Posted: Mon Nov 16, 2009 6:22 pm
by Slunnie
troopymad wrote:wha-t your thinking of radius arms on the back?
i heard you can get bad antisquat with a radius arm setup in the rear
which will make your rear end jump up and down quite bad and the bigger the hill the worse it gets for some reason

but someone else will have a better idea
Disco2 is setup with RA rear. With 4" + 35's there are no probs like that.

RA in my opinion will hinder outright articulation for an offroader, but will give enough for a DD.

Posted: Mon Nov 16, 2009 7:44 pm
by rockcrawler31
choppy choppy on fuel tank :D

is there any reason a three link and panhard wouldn't work well on the rear?

failing that could you do longer top arms with a bend in them to clear the tank?

i would steer clear of radius arms on the rear like the plague. great to have them on the front to control roll axis, but both ends would be limiting. You would be better off just putting leaves back under there :D

Posted: Mon Nov 16, 2009 8:20 pm
by Struth
rockcrawler31 wrote:choppy choppy on fuel tank :D

is there any reason a three link and panhard wouldn't work well on the rear?

failing that could you do longer top arms with a bend in them to clear the tank?

i would steer clear of radius arms on the rear like the plague. great to have them on the front to control roll axis, but both ends would be limiting. You would be better off just putting leaves back under there :D
Maybe one day it will get more than my modified 5 link, but I haven't got time to change too much, it has to be ready and tested for a trip to tassie in January.

But judging by some of the pictures in this thread the standard set up will flex pretty well.

Cheers

Posted: Mon Nov 16, 2009 8:35 pm
by 75 cruser
just go the 4 link rear, and if your not happy the way it drives you can all ways put a pannard in latter

rob

Posted: Mon Nov 16, 2009 8:47 pm
by rockcrawler31
75 cruser wrote:just go the 4 link rear, and if your not happy the way it drives you can all ways put a pannard in latter

rob
He's already got a four link and panhard rear. but the foreskinner fuel tank limits the length of upper links that can be replaced in a custom application.

Now get back into your box you G a y tard drunken bum :D