Outer Limits 4x4 Board

i want to set up a 60 series for a comp truck should i go for the coil over option and what else do i need to do for this option

If your serious about comp, you shouldnt need to be asking this question.

vk7ybi wrote:If your serious about comp, you shouldnt need to be asking this question.

Thats a constructive answer.


Most comp trucks have coilovers, by pass shocks etc although there are a few out there still running conventional springs and shocks. I would say the consensus is that coil overs are the way to go however it will come down to money in the end.

All spring purches shock mounts etc will need to be removed and replaced with shock hoops and additinial bracing between the hoops. Look at a few setups to see what has already been done. You will find that most applications are roughly the same for all common vehicles.

Also which comps do u wont to compete in????

once that is decided then that will determine what setup, I.E coil overs, triple bypass shocks, air-shocks, or be old school and use coils and shocks separate

i am only just getting into comps but looking at doing willowglenn, nissan trials and some other ones that come up with the club im in

im guessing your building this all on your 60 chassis? if so, it will be just as much work to go either coil or coilover. engineers will want welding done by a certified person and either way will be alot more comfy than leafs.

coil overs will cost more than twice the price but are twice as nice as coils. you wont need bypass shocks for those events.

its up to you really for those types of events either will be fine, but coilovers get more cred points.

Mate for willoglen and nissan trails you can drive ur 60 wid leafs as this year seen about 5 60 a willoglen all driving things well sure you might nock the front hanger's but do a reversal shackel, thats all thats realy needed for those type of comps but if you were planning tuff truck then id be coil over's etc lol thats hectic

Shackle reversal the front and spring over! you will be right!

i run a 60 chopped into a ute in comps, allbeit not as hardcore as tt, but still very successfully. run 60s rear springs in the front, reversed, wit a shackle reversal ( very important ), if u can run the springs through a roller or get a spring shop to do it, to take some height out of the spring, so at rest it basically sits flat. i moved the front mount to the front of the chassis, n run the spring backwards, this moved the diff fwd about 100mm. had to cut the guards a little at the front. run a slightly longer shackle ( 1.5" longer ) and remove 1 or 2 of the leafs ( 3 and 2 longest ). on my rig it flexes like mad. then mounted a wrap, single bar runnin from the top of the pumpkin to the top of the chassis rail. this matches the angle of the springs and works great ( bear in mind im not sprung over yet, which seems to work well for me as with the cut n flipped rims it is oh so stable ). on the rear i run 75s rears as theyre much longer, moved the rear hanger back around 75mm, remove 3 or so leaves, longer shackle n your laughin. this moves your axle back bout 100mm though, so if your full bodied, can still do it just run the spring backwards. the extra wheelbase seems to help though. best thing i ever did was chop it, seems that most comps put u in tight spots, n all the extra boddy just gets smashed. everything else is there, good diffs, reasonably wide, strong driveline, torquey motors, i shimmed the lsd up a year ago n is still goin strong. isnt that much work n no money to get a competitive truck. hope this rambling is of some help, be great to see more 60s out there

Yeh I'm surprised their aren't more 60s out there competing, they are a great truck for those on a budget.

sweet thanks guys i aint looking at the tuff truck for a bit yet.
getting some good advice any pics would be great of 60 series set ups to please

rammer60 wrote:i run a 60 chopped into a ute in comps, allbeit not as hardcore as tt, but still very successfully. run 60s rear springs in the front, reversed, wit a shackle reversal ( very important ), if u can run the springs through a roller or get a spring shop to do it, to take some height out of the spring, so at rest it basically sits flat. i moved the front mount to the front of the chassis, n run the spring backwards, this moved the diff fwd about 100mm. had to cut the guards a little at the front. run a slightly longer shackle ( 1.5" longer ) and remove 1 or 2 of the leafs ( 3 and 2 longest ). on my rig it flexes like mad. then mounted a wrap, single bar runnin from the top of the pumpkin to the top of the chassis rail. this matches the angle of the springs and works great ( bear in mind im not sprung over yet, which seems to work well for me as with the cut n flipped rims it is oh so stable ). on the rear i run 75s rears as theyre much longer, moved the rear hanger back around 75mm, remove 3 or so leaves, longer shackle n your laughin. this moves your axle back bout 100mm though, so if your full bodied, can still do it just run the spring backwards. the extra wheelbase seems to help though. best thing i ever did was chop it, seems that most comps put u in tight spots, n all the extra boddy just gets smashed. everything else is there, good diffs, reasonably wide, strong driveline, torquey motors, i shimmed the lsd up a year ago n is still goin strong. isnt that much work n no money to get a competitive truck. hope this rambling is of some help, be great to see more 60s out there

Got any links or photos of your truck mate? you still got N/A 2h?

ha, even worse, runnin the old 2f motor funny as it sounds its a brilliant low range motor. something like 270 ft/pounds of torque, n still revs to 4500 or so, had been lookin at other alternatives, but found unless i build a fairly tough v8 there wouldnt be enough advantage to be worth it. not compared to the benifitof what that money spent on more suspension or drivline improvements would render. just a bit slow on the road. will get some pics together n get m up here soon.
and chunks i totally agree, i dont understand why theres not more out there. people never look into them, but mine doesnt have a single big dollar part in it, and its still very competitive

i like them but i havent seen one that wasnt covered in rust holes... id say thats why more people dont do the 60s

considering the bloke i got the series off had a backyard that was lakemaquarie it aint got a lot of rust i was supprised, the worst is the sunroof but hey who needs them anyways

here are a couple of pics of mine, it isnt exactly a full blown comp truck, just a play toy to have some fun in and go to the beach and still gets driven to work aswell. competed in a local comp recently but still running leafs all round with a 12ht under the bonnet.

tboof2008 wrote:considering the bloke i got the series off had a backyard that was lakemaquarie it aint got a lot of rust i was supprised, the worst is the sunroof but hey who needs them anyways

might be interesting to find out the rules pertaining to sunroofs in the comps you want to enter. a mate of mine ended up finding it cheaper to buy a new body for his patrol than to jump through the hoops the comp organisers wanted him to to cover the "sunroof opening"

here is a pic of mine coilover front coil rear
[img][img]http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc17 ... tos027.jpg[/img][/img]

I want another 60....