Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Ok, me inear hub seals are leakin.... time to replace.....just guna get a kit from repco(or one of them shops) but wot else is there that may pop up on me, or anythin else that should be done at the same time?

repack all bearings or get new ones?

any tricks or tips to help...ive never done it before!!

just done drivers side on mine

farkin oil an chit every where i just repacked the bearings, seemed alright

will do the other side sometime this week

btw does any1 know an easy way to get out the seal out that is in the actuall housing? it took me like 15 minutes to get that seal out just ended up breakin it to get it out

redzook wrote:btw does any1 know an easy way to get out the seal out that is in the actuall housing? it took me like 15 minutes to get that seal out just ended up breakin it to get it out

cut it, and pull it out.


i would put in new wheel bearings at the same time.


NICK

NICK wrote:

redzook wrote:btw does any1 know an easy way to get out the seal out that is in the actuall housing? it took me like 15 minutes to get that seal out just ended up breakin it to get it out

cut it, and pull it out.
i would put in new wheel bearings at the same time.
NICK

cut it with what?

redzook wrote:

NICK wrote:

redzook wrote:btw does any1 know an easy way to get out the seal out that is in the actuall housing? it took me like 15 minutes to get that seal out just ended up breakin it to get it out

cut it, and pull it out.
i would put in new wheel bearings at the same time.
NICK

cut it with what?

dont cut it use me slide hammer

redzook wrote:

NICK wrote:

redzook wrote:btw does any1 know an easy way to get out the seal out that is in the actuall housing? it took me like 15 minutes to get that seal out just ended up breakin it to get it out

cut it, and pull it out.
i would put in new wheel bearings at the same time.
NICK

cut it with what?

hacksaw blade to break the little metal ring in them.


NICK

yld04b wrote:

redzook wrote:

NICK wrote:

redzook wrote:btw does any1 know an easy way to get out the seal out that is in the actuall housing? it took me like 15 minutes to get that seal out just ended up breakin it to get it out

cut it, and pull it out.
i would put in new wheel bearings at the same time.
NICK

cut it with what?

dont cut it use me slide hammer

if in doubt get the grinder out

i just stab a flat head screw driver into the seal and lever it out .

when you do the seals put in new wheel bearings and hub bearings,
Have lots of rags and new fresh grease, depending on how hard you wanna go i suggest a few cans of degresser and some kero

spazbot wrote:i just stab a flat head screw driver into the seal and lever it out .

just be careful not to bur up the seal surface.


NICK

Use multi grips. I have had bad experience with cutting it and pulling it out. Lucky I had a die burner at work at the time so I could gring out what I farked up.

There is such a thing as a "Seal Puller". Works a treat - you won't want to go back to those other ameteurish methods

Or the multigrip method also works well

how much is one of those kits with seals and bearings etc inc. for both hubs ????

Brettocustom wrote:how much is one of those kits with seals and bearings etc inc. for both hubs ????

Appco do them for $95 inc GST kiwi
set dose both sides and also knuckle bearings too

i havnt picked mine up yet but i thinks bout $140ish for the seal kit..and not sure on the bearings..im guissin $200 will cover the lot with diff oil and grease!

I just bought a hub seal and bearing kit from Bouncer Spares in Smithfield Sydney, cost me $138. This is for both sides, you still need to purchase wheel bearings if you need them. If your hub seals are leaking it is usually because the swivel hub bearings have failed.

doing swivel hub bearings, seals felts etc and i'm stumped

i knocked out the bottom bearing race before noticing that they are both worn unevenly, like it was wearing on one side of the race making it elliptical. or they are meant to be like this? my question relates the replacement bearing in the kit, the races aren't elliptical so do i just put them in and hope, or add shims?? any help welcome




oh, i can't stress enough how easy it can be with the proper tools. after spending ages trying to get ball joints off the steering arm, bought a separator from repco. both off in less than 5 mins. then spent at least 2 hours trying to get axle seal out before making a booty fab seal puller from a scrap piece of steel and a chain style oil filter wrench


Cheers

beebee wrote:There is such a thing as a "Seal Puller". Works a treat - you won't want to go back to those other ameteurish methods

Makes the job easy as!

Might also pay attention to the bush that the cv runs in it's inside the spindle don't know if the kits come with them a Gq i done at work a while ago came witht them so don't see why they wouldn't come in the toyota ones, But by the looks of the ebay ones they don't if this is worn the axle will move around to much and let oil bypass the seal only a matter of time till it leaks out again

beebee and ausyota are right. i'll be buying one on monday

sic lux, is that the brass bush in the back of the stub axle? you are right, it doesn't come in the toyota kit, well none that i have seen. job for next weekend then


any ideas on the swivel hub bearings?

go to toyota and buy genuine axel seals from them and chuck the 2 that comes in the kit out. They only cost $8 each or somethin from toyota. Apparently the ones that come with the kit are cheap crap and are a waste of time. Its not a job u want do again in a hurry

Yeah thats the one prob throw some new ones in mine next time front end pulled down CBF at the moment it hasn't had castor correcting kingpin bearings i'm sure i read something on here about them or someone asking how to fit them. Are the oval or round but of centre i wouldn't add any shims put back in what came out of the same place as it can play with the height the axle runs at

I've found the main reason the wiper seals leak is because the inner seal has failed, diff oil gets into the hubs and since the felt wiper seals are only meant for grease - they leak. The inner seal can be replaced without distrubing the swivel bearings at all. If they're not notchy or exhibit play in any direction - leave them alone. The wiper seals can be replaced without removing the swivel housing, you cut them at an angle and slide them over the axle with the split at the top.

Setting up swivel housings properly can be fairly involved, checking preload and measuring shims to centre the housing to ensure the axle runs true.

Yeah like said above oil is probaly bypassing the seal from the cv bush being worn. thought most of the felt kits came with a cut in them (only need to cut main one)

hope setting the preload isnt to critical, i was just planning of putting original shims back in. was only one shim on top, toyota and thickness etched into it. do i:
1 put them back in how i found them, or
2 replace with new shims of same thickness, or
3 some combination of above and set the preload. how?

everything is cleaned down to the trunion (i think it is called) because my kit wasn't right. wrong size wiper seals anyway, cleaned everything, all bearing and cv's greased and ready to go back in. tomorrow buy new kit and seal puller tool, fit wiper seals and begin bolting all together.

thanks for help so far guys

Bluey wrote:hope setting the preload isnt to critical, i was just planning of putting original shims back in. was only one shim on top, toyota and thickness etched into it. do i:
1 put them back in how i found them, or
2 replace with new shims of same thickness, or
3 some combination of above and set the preload. how?

everything is cleaned down to the trunion (i think it is called) because my kit wasn't right. wrong size wiper seals anyway, cleaned everything, all bearing and cv's greased and ready to go back in. tomorrow buy new kit and seal puller tool, fit wiper seals and begin bolting all together.

thanks for help so far guys

use the same shims as before

dont mix them up etc.

the shims arent for preload, they are to line the axle up dead centre with the axle tube, since the axle tube is a casting or welded etc, no 2 are exactly the same.

New bearings have no impact on the shims required to keep the swivle hub (and thus axle) centred with the axle tube.

Shadow wrote:

Bluey wrote:hope setting the preload isnt to critical, i was just planning of putting original shims back in. was only one shim on top, toyota and thickness etched into it. do i:
1 put them back in how i found them, or
2 replace with new shims of same thickness, or
3 some combination of above and set the preload. how?

everything is cleaned down to the trunion (i think it is called) because my kit wasn't right. wrong size wiper seals anyway, cleaned everything, all bearing and cv's greased and ready to go back in. tomorrow buy new kit and seal puller tool, fit wiper seals and begin bolting all together.

thanks for help so far guys

use the same shims as before

dont mix them up etc.

the shims arent for preload, they are to line the axle up dead centre with the axle tube, since the axle tube is a casting or welded etc, no 2 are exactly the same.

New bearings have no impact on the shims required to keep the swivle hub (and thus axle) centred with the axle tube.

Don't stress over the shims too much. Any toyota solid axle front is going to be at least 10 years old and if it's been offroad then it will almost certainly be bent slightly (or at least different from when it left the factory). Put them back in as they came out but if they're mixed up, just concentrate on the preload. Whether the axle is sitting 1mm higher or lower won't worry the seal that much.