Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I want to do a decent air tank system in the disco. Seen hobzee sell 15 litre alloy tanks for 130, which got me thinking, what about an old truck air tank, buzzed a few wreckers and most will give the things away any pros and cons of the truck air tanks?

Timmy

There are no cons, all pros, if you find one that fits right in the space allowed.

yeah no probs at all in actual fact with all the different makes/models/sizes you could do a pretty decent 'hidden' system due to all the trucks different configurations ...

Timmy88 wrote:I want to do a decent air tank system in the disco. Seen hobzee sell 15 litre alloy tanks for 130, which got me thinking, what about an old truck air tank, buzzed a few wreckers and most will give the things away any pros and cons of the truck air tanks?

They are giving them away? Which wrecker?? the few I called last yr said the minitruckers were cleaning them out and they were worth diamonds now :(

as said, all good for truck tanks, go the euro ones, long and thin so they fit up out of the way

Only cons are wether or not they are manufactured to and designed to relevant AS for an under vehicle mounted air receiver or in vehicle mounted receiver and wether or not they have a data plate displaying their operating pressure.

Under the vehicle they are very susceptible to damage, in the vehicle they will take the windows and your eardrums out if the fail, if it's behind the back seat they will blow the seat off it's mounts too.

We deliberately burst vessels of this capacity as part our test routines. We burst them using oil and hydraulic pressire, the result is fairly violent inside our purpose built burst tank, but because oil will only co.

We would never consider doing it with air pressure as we don't like blowing walls down and people across the factory.

What I am getting at is that an AS designed (or properly designed) vessel should be tested to burst in a particular way, which is to seperate at the welded join, preferably the longtidunal weld if it has one, rather than disintegrating in the body material and causing shrapnel.

Cheers

Struth wrote:Only cons are wether or not they are manufactured to and designed to relevant AS for an under vehicle mounted air receiver or in vehicle mounted receiver and wether or not they have a data plate displaying their operating pressure.

Under the vehicle they are very susceptible to damage, in the vehicle they will take the windows and your eardrums out if the fail, if it's behind the back seat they will blow the seat off it's mounts too.

We deliberately burst vessels of this capacity as part our test routines. We burst them using oil and hydraulic pressire, the result is fairly violent inside our purpose built burst tank, but because oil will only co.

We would never consider doing it with air pressure as we don't like blowing walls down and people across the factory.

What I am getting at is that an AS designed (or properly designed) vessel should be tested to burst in a particular way, which is to seperate at the welded join, preferably the longtidunal weld if it has one, rather than disintegrating in the body material and causing shrapnel.

Cheers

so your going to make us all custom cheap air tanks ... I knew I loved you for a reason

bogged wrote:

Struth wrote:Only cons are wether or not they are manufactured to and designed to relevant AS for an under vehicle mounted air receiver or in vehicle mounted receiver and wether or not they have a data plate displaying their operating pressure.

Under the vehicle they are very susceptible to damage, in the vehicle they will take the windows and your eardrums out if the fail, if it's behind the back seat they will blow the seat off it's mounts too.

We deliberately burst vessels of this capacity as part our test routines. We burst them using oil and hydraulic pressire, the result is fairly violent inside our purpose built burst tank, but because oil will only co.

We would never consider doing it with air pressure as we don't like blowing walls down and people across the factory.

What I am getting at is that an AS designed (or properly designed) vessel should be tested to burst in a particular way, which is to seperate at the welded join, preferably the longtidunal weld if it has one, rather than disintegrating in the body material and causing shrapnel.

Cheers

so your going to make us all custom cheap air tanks ... I knew I loved you for a reason

We are working on custom approved stainless steel automotive air tanks from 15 to 30 Lt to suit the 4WD market, but cheap would not be everyones opinion.

Cheap in that you get a properly manufactured air receiver with design approval and made from very tuff temper rolled stainless steel, guess who gets the prototype

wouldn't a truck air tank used for air brakes/shifters that is mounted on the outside chassis of the truck already carry such approvals?

Agreed, i would have thought the tank rating for applications for things such as brakes would be much higher than the average working load.

Most 4by applications using air tanks would be up to 100psi max wouldnt it? With a pressure switch to run the compressor up to 100, and a safety release valve over say 120psi? I doubt truck brakes would run at that sort of pressure though- but please correct me if i'm off the mark.

bigcam wrote:wouldn't a truck air tank used for air brakes/shifters that is mounted on the outside chassis of the truck already carry such approvals?

That's the question, are they approved for use in passenger vehicles.

Don't know what pressure truck brakes run at but I wouldn't think it would be up to 100psi, they used large surface area pistons/airbags to get big force from smaller pressures.

But I don't know for sure.

One example of this situation are the BBQ gas bottles sold at hardware outlets, they do not carry an Australian Test Station stamp and therefore are illegal to fill in Australia, you can sell them but you can't fill them. Most filling stations however don't look at anything other than the test date and probably don't know anything about the need for a test stamp.

We have no idea if each and every one of these was hydro tested to test pressure and air leak tested to test pressure as every such vessel made in australia must be by law.

So anyways, air receivers are pressure vessels and must meet relevant rules to be used in Aus.

Cheers

Truck air tank pressure is 120-140psi

I have 2 sitting in the shed i scored off a 2008 model mack that got burned out.
They are about 25 litres each, all i need to do is blast them, powdercoat them and they will be ready, they suffered slight heat damage which peeled paint and rust formed

trucks uslauuly run about 7kpa-120-120 psi.

Have seen gauges go right round, way past 10kpa and hit the 0kpa stop needle. My guess is 12-13 kpa. Nothing blew, dont know how, but the brakes were working a bit wierd with that sort of pressure feeding them.

pongo wrote:trucks uslauuly run about 7kpa-120-120 psi.

Have seen gauges go right round, way past 10kpa and hit the 0kpa stop needle. My guess is 12-13 kpa. Nothing blew, dont know how, but the brakes were working a bit wierd with that sort of pressure feeding them.

Lol the truck should have had safety valves to prevent overpressure.

I have had a truck (Isuzu FSR) truck air tank in my Gwagen for a gazillion years.

It's much, much heavier than any workshop compressor tank.

I can see no problem with using one.

Steve.

Truck air tanks are the BEST option for an onboard air system by far!!

GO to a truck wreckers and they are EVERYWHERE, every size you could want. You can even set up a system with more than one tank and put them in different positions, where ever suits. Take it to Enzed and get the right fittings and plumb it up.

Why anyone would pay for an air tank is beyond me!! If you want, you can paint it pretty colours and make it LOOK like you paid $100+ for it!!

Go to super cheap and see if they have had any compressors returned for warranty. I have heard that they sell the tanks cheap for the returns. Around the $20 - $30 mark maybe.

Nothing to lose trying.

Willy Hilux wrote:Go to super cheap and see if they have had any compressors returned for warranty. I have heard that they sell the tanks cheap for the returns. Around the $20 - $30 mark maybe.

Nothing to lose trying.

If you drove a jeep your avatar would be fricking hilarious.

Willy Hilux wrote:Go to super cheap and see if they have had any compressors returned for warranty. I have heard that they sell the tanks cheap for the returns. Around the $20 - $30 mark maybe.

Nothing to lose trying.

Another great option!! Especially considering the size of the tanks on the smaller compressors that die so often!!

bigbluemav wrote:

Willy Hilux wrote:Go to super cheap and see if they have had any compressors returned for warranty. I have heard that they sell the tanks cheap for the returns. Around the $20 - $30 mark maybe.

Nothing to lose trying.

Another great option!! Especially considering the size of the tanks on the smaller compressors that die so often!!

Also if your setting up an endless air system you get a one way valve and pressure switch aswell!

Simonc3 wrote:

bigbluemav wrote:

Willy Hilux wrote:Go to super cheap and see if they have had any compressors returned for warranty. I have heard that they sell the tanks cheap for the returns. Around the $20 - $30 mark maybe.

Nothing to lose trying.

Another great option!! Especially considering the size of the tanks on the smaller compressors that die so often!!

Also if your setting up an endless air system you get a one way valve and pressure switch aswell!

Another good reason NOT to pay $150 for a tank, and then have to fork out for the non-return valve, pressure switch etc!!

We are going to save this lad a MINT!!

When I had truck tanks Ive mounted them either behind winch at front or bolted to chassis rails under vehicle.

Bazzle