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What replacement Radiator?

Posted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 9:42 am
by Bluey
I'm in the market for a new radiator for my 80 series as my car is overheating badly on sand, up hills etc. I have already changed the thermostat, water pump, new oil in thermo fan housing, hoses and fluid.

So, what type of radiator do I get:
Copper and brass tanks
Copper and plastic tanks
Aluminium and plastic tanks
Aluminium

Single, double, triple, quadruple ... core?

Electric fan(s)?


Cheers

Posted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 10:31 am
by optima
give aussie dessert cooler a ring they no there stuff pretty well

http://www.aussiedesertcooler.com.au/

Telephone
(03) 9 470 4449

Posted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 2:51 pm
by Struth
Get the original beefed up to h-duty 4 core.

Aluminium radiators just throw too much heat into the engine bay and some known brands of aluminium fail regularly through build quality.

I went from aluminium to h-duty 4 core and haven't looked back, also hardly ever have to watch the temp guage anymore compared to the aluminium unit I had.

Cheers

Posted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 5:01 pm
by 87 Turbo Hilux
mabey get it split and cleaned. i had the same prob a year ago with my old engine set up, cost me $80. it might save you $

stuff

Posted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 5:19 pm
by fumduk3
i know most people run when you say REPCO...... but i needed a new radiator straight awat one arvo and had replaced everything else as a precaution for a big trip was gonna cost me 100-150 for flush/clean and new top and bottom o rings, thought stuff it ill buy a new 1 got brass/copper radiator from repco for 400 fitted perfect, also had the trans cooling lines if it was 4 a auto but i didnt need them as 1HZ DX manual. temps went down 1/4 from before it played up. worked for me.

Posted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 5:43 pm
by gtir300
Had a similar problem in the last few weeks and despite filling my fan clutch with new silicon fluid the fan clutch was not working properly.

Fitted a replacement fan clutch from Don Kyatt ($235) and can now hear fan roar and temps are now controlled, maxxing at 95deg C on a big hill climb towing my camper with air con on and maintaining speed limit. On the flat 85-90deg C with ambients at 32-34deg.

I was looking at custom aluminium and brass/copper rads for my 1FZ-FE and over here in Perth I was looking at $1200 minimum!

Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 9:34 pm
by Bluey
thanks for the advice fellas

car overheated again over xmas so ripped the radiator out. took it to a local joint to have it rodded, they called me back and said don't bother, its too rooted. was only a 2 core with 4 rows (ie 4 front and back) permanently block, and rest were full off crap. doubt there was any effective flow at all.

bought a new one from them, is a 3 core copper and brass tanks, cost was 500 bucks. put it in, car is awesome now. can actually use hard now, full noise up steep hills and the guage doesn't move. yet to go offroad but foresee no issues now.


Cheers




btw, anyone else changing/removing a radiator in a 80 series, i strongly suggest modded the upper mounts. i drilled the holes out and fitted M8 nutserts, cost couple of bucks and a homemade nutsert tool from scrap steel. now to remove just need to undo 4 bolts and lift, no need to remove top support, grill, lights whatever.

Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 6:49 am
by Hamo
Bluey wrote:
btw, anyone else changing/removing a radiator in a 80 series, i strongly suggest modded the upper mounts. i drilled the holes out and fitted M8 nutserts, cost couple of bucks and a homemade nutsert tool from scrap steel. now to remove just need to undo 4 bolts and lift, no need to remove top support, grill, lights whatever.
Top idea wish i had of read that 3 weeks ago
But i will defenatly do this next time i pull the radiator