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Kill Switch Wiring - I already tried search

Posted: Tue Dec 15, 2009 2:32 pm
by WelchyGQ
Heya,

Looking at putting in two kill switches for my Gq Diesel for comps

Both switches need to be mounted in the cab

One needs to isolate the winch - am i better off isolating the neutral?

The other needs to isolate all of the vehical electrics - i am strugling to see how i can do this - if i isolate the neutral wont it still find a return path through the engine earth?

or do i basically run a cable fom the positive on the battery to the switch and then run everythign from the load side of this switch? - could get messy - not to mention it has to be in the cab.

Any help would be good.

Cheers,

Welchy

Posted: Tue Dec 15, 2009 2:51 pm
by ledgend80
couldnt you just fit the 2 kill switches inside the cab with a power feed going through the kill switch to a decent sized solenoid and when you press the kill switch it deactivates the solenoid and cut your power. you could wire this up to cut power or to cut earth. just a thought

Posted: Tue Dec 15, 2009 4:10 pm
by chimpboy
If this is to comply with comp requirements I would check what others are already using. Vague memory from similar threads is that mechanical set-ups were used ie cable operated cut-off right at the battery, no electric switches or anything. I could be completely misremembering though.

Posted: Tue Dec 15, 2009 4:45 pm
by pongo
you can put one of those key barrel type ign cut offs inline on the earth side of the battry no probs. Then as said i spose run a cable pull set up to it.

As for winch i guess it all depends how you want to kill it, either the motor itself or the solonoids. Perhaps run the setup above again using the main winch earth lead??

Posted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 8:37 pm
by tiler0172
hi welchy
mate i run a solinoide out near the batt and switch by remote switch in the cab so no big cables in cab and less voltage drop due to long cables.
this is for xwc
cheers crazy eyes

solenoid

Posted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 7:19 am
by WelchyGQ
Jason,

I thought when it said mechanicly disconect that it would have to be a switch in the cab taking full load. Wouyldnt a solenoid be electricly disconecting? Or am i looking at it to closely ( just shut up and do it?)

Cheers,

Welchy

Posted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 3:04 pm
by tiler0172
well ity is like this . It does wat they want and no one has said anything to me about it being wrong so i just go with the flow. it works for me and i dont like having big cable runing into the cabe it is a fire hazard as far as i am concerned.
cheers crazy eyes

Posted: Sat Dec 19, 2009 6:30 pm
by hammey
How about this.

Run a 4 pole duel contact kill switch. Hella make one and theres a couple of other brands.

Use the first contact to isolate the battery earth as required by the rule book and the second contact to knock out the power supply from the alt.

If you just take out the battery the alt will still feed the cars electrics, you need to take out the alt supply as well and the most cost effective single action option i believe is this way.

As for the winch.... Why? no one requires this and if you put the car on its lid or side and need to recover it during a stage you will need your winch even if you dont want car electrics for what ever reason.

cheers smitty :D

Posted: Sat Dec 26, 2009 7:49 pm
by tom_286
hammey wrote: As for the winch.... Why? no one requires this and if you put the car on its lid or side and need to recover it during a stage you will need your winch even if you dont want car electrics for what ever reason.

cheers smitty :D

As you say I'm pretty sure most comps dont require the winch to be isolated but its a good idea to do it for justin, but switched seperatly from the rest of the electrics. Easy for winch solenoids to stick on or the motor windings to short them selves out internaly.

Posted: Mon Dec 28, 2009 8:48 pm
by Chook350
So really the way to go would be a 4 post islolater in the engine bay, with earth and power, cable operated from cab, if you want to isolate the winch use a extra solenoid or red key isolater