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Disco steering death shakes
Posted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 8:20 am
by phippsey
They old disco runs very sweet and at times am loving the return to the dark side!
At speeds >80, if I hit a pothole etc I get front end death shakes.
I'm pretty confident it's not balance = it is smooth all the time otherwise
The front shocks seam good too
The front wheel bearings already replaced
The tyre bloke suggested an increased aftermarket steering dampner.
He reckons he's had a few Disco/Rangies with similar - any thoughts????
Posted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 9:02 am
by lucy
Check all your bushes - mine did the same and it was a shock mount bush.
Re: Disco steering death shakes
Posted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 9:22 am
by Simo63
phippsey wrote:They old disco runs very sweet and at times am loving the return to the dark side!
At speeds >80, if I hit a pothole etc I get front end death shakes.
I'm pretty confident it's not balance = it is smooth all the time otherwise
The front shocks seam good too
The front wheel bearings already replaced
The tyre bloke suggested an increased aftermarket steering dampner.
He reckons he's had a few Disco/Rangies with similar - any thoughts????
Front end wobbles are always hard to pinpoint to one thing ... in fact they are usually a combination of things but mostly related to worn parts. Sounds like a combination of worn king pin bearings (check to see they are not RS, and are correctly tensioned .... remove any spacer/shims if needed) worn rubbers (radius arm and panhard rod) and maybe a worn steering damper.
Cheers
Simo
Posted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 1:07 pm
by Loanrangie
As simo63 said check your swivel pre loads, this make a big difference to steering kickback as well as the damper- also check the panhard rod bush's.
Posted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 2:08 pm
by drew1989
well i just went through this same problem, have 35 simex that are not balanced and was getting bad shakes. replaced steering damper got a little better, replaces drag link and track rod and tie rod ends, got a little better, then took out the pahnard rod and replaced with polyurethane bushed, problem gone. tyres still not balanced. anyways go to pedders they have the poly bushes the standard ones will need to be pressed out but the pedders ones will drop right in.
Posted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 2:09 pm
by drew1989
and also fiddled with the swivel preloads that also helped
Posted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 6:35 pm
by 6.5 rangie
9 times out of 10 its the panhard bushes, this has been done to death but no one seems to search anymore
Posted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 6:39 pm
by Micka
6.5 rangie wrote:9 times out of 10 its the panhard bushes, this has been done to death but no one seems to search anymore
x whateverfarkingnumberthatisbiggerthanwhateverfarkingyoucanthinkof
Posted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 6:50 pm
by 6.5 rangie
Micka wrote:6.5 rangie wrote:9 times out of 10 its the panhard bushes, this has been done to death but no one seems to search anymore
x whateverfarkingnumberthatisbiggerthanwhateverfarkingyoucanthinkof
so you agree
Posted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 6:52 pm
by def90
Micka wrote:6.5 rangie wrote:9 times out of 10 its the panhard bushes, this has been done to death but no one seems to search anymore
x whateverfarkingnumberthatisbiggerthanwhateverfarkingyoucanthinkof
ohhhh......NASTY......
Posted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 7:12 pm
by phippsey
Well once the search is fully back up then all go !
Will replace the panard rod bushes with the poly ones, someone else suggested that and check Simos suggestions too.
Cheers everyone
Posted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 7:26 pm
by 6.5 rangie
yeah the poly ones work well in the panhard, easy to fit.
search is working fine
Posted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 8:41 pm
by Philip A
But only if you do not do any dusty work eg Simpson.
I did a set in 5kk . They had about 1MM gap between the centre sleeve and the bush.
IMHO if you do not have big tyres, metalistic bushes are better in the Panhard rod.
If your panhard rod bushes look OK then it will be the swivel bearings in each hub. On an old car it is a waste of time to just up the preload by removing shims as the bearings "brinnel" ie look like a corrugated road, with the low bits at straight ahead. new bearings required.
BTW there are two types of shimmy, parallel when the wheels stay in the same relationship, and wobble where they move in different directions. Parallel is Panhard. Wobble is tie rod ends, or swivels.
They feel different.
Regards Philip A
Posted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 11:27 pm
by Braudy
I've got the same issues with mine , I was just doing some research on swivel pins . I'm guessing you just do the top one ...Right ?. I found this which was helpfull.
http://www.landroverclub.net//Club/HTML ... e_cure.htm
And this one
http://www.Grimace.hiof.no/~frodehaa/swivelpinpreload.htm
I hope that helps .
I'm giving mine a go this weekend.
Braudy
Posted: Fri Dec 18, 2009 8:42 am
by Simo63
Braudy wrote:I've got the same issues with mine , I was just doing some research on swivel pins . I'm guessing you just do the top one ...Right ?.
Braudy
Sorry mate but Wrong. You do both top and bottom if you do any of them. When I've done them in the past it's usually the bottom one that is the most farked ... often pitted and rusted on the older girls.
Always do both and while you are there, make sure you replace all the seals etc. Read the manual, learn about the preload and do them right .. or pay someone else who can do them right for you is my advice.
Cheers
Simo
Posted: Fri Dec 18, 2009 1:14 pm
by oldmate
6.5 rangie wrote:9 times out of 10 its the panhard bushes, this has been done to death but no one seems to search anymore
I must be the 1 out of 10 cause when i had this problem with an 80 series it was the radius arm bushes.
I'd put ALL bushes at the top of the list followed by tierod/drag link ends, then bearings.
The bushes should be replaced always. they can look fine but they can still be knackered.
Posted: Fri Dec 18, 2009 3:03 pm
by Braudy
Sorry mate but Wrong. You do both top and bottom if you do any of them. When I've done them in the past it's usually the bottom one that is the most farked ... often pitted and rusted on the older girls.
Always do both and while you are there, make sure you replace all the seals etc. Read the manual, learn about the preload and do them right .. or pay someone else who can do them right for you is my advice.
Cheers
Simo
Thanks for that, after researching a a little more it was obvious I needed to do both.
Cheers
Posted: Fri Dec 18, 2009 8:55 pm
by lokka
Use super pro poly bushes in a rover forget all the other ones go with the super pro and a can of lanolin spray grease give em a squirt every month and they will out last the truck .
Posted: Sat Dec 19, 2009 7:10 pm
by 6.5 rangie
oldmate wrote:6.5 rangie wrote:9 times out of 10 its the panhard bushes, this has been done to death but no one seems to search anymore
I must be the 1 out of 10 cause when i had this problem with an 80 series it was the radius arm bushes.
I'd put ALL bushes at the top of the list followed by tierod/drag link ends, then bearings.
The bushes should be replaced always. they can look fine but they can still be knackered.
thats 9 out of 10 in a ROVER
Posted: Sat Dec 19, 2009 7:11 pm
by 6.5 rangie
lokka wrote:Use super pro poly bushes in a rover forget all the other ones go with the super pro and a can of lanolin spray grease give em a squirt every month and they will out last the truck .
x2
Posted: Sun Dec 20, 2009 3:13 pm
by Rangie ute on 38''
Had the same problem two different occasions, one was shot castor/ radius arm bushes after lifting 2'' the death wobble showed, second time bent drag link causing severe wheel alignment, third time different car was castor bushes again.
Posted: Sun Dec 20, 2009 3:51 pm
by nottie
I wouldnt use pollys at all. Stick with the rubber in my view. But yep most likely pan hard bushs. Have someone move the steer wheel side to side and watch the panhard as the front moves. You will see it plain as day.
Posted: Mon Dec 21, 2009 12:52 pm
by Loanrangie
nottie wrote:I wouldnt use pollys at all. Stick with the rubber in my view. But yep most likely pan hard bushs. Have someone move the steer wheel side to side and watch the panhard as the front moves. You will see it plain as day.
Poly's are good for the panhard rod but i wont use them anywhere else either.
Posted: Mon Dec 21, 2009 7:06 pm
by 6.5 rangie
theres poly's and theres super pro poly's, the super pros are very good in comparison to normal poly's
Posted: Tue Dec 22, 2009 12:10 am
by lokka
6.5 rangie wrote:theres poly's and theres super pro poly's, the super pros are very good in comparison to normal poly's
x elevntybillion
superpros are the shyte
Posted: Tue Dec 22, 2009 3:14 pm
by Loanrangie
6.5 rangie wrote:theres poly's and theres super pro poly's, the super pros are very good in comparison to normal poly's
Yeah so i've heard, wont be going back anytime soon after having to oxy the last set out
Posted: Tue Dec 22, 2009 8:16 pm
by 6.5 rangie
Loanrangie wrote:6.5 rangie wrote:theres poly's and theres super pro poly's, the super pros are very good in comparison to normal poly's
Yeah so i've heard, wont be going back anytime soon after having to oxy the last set out
i'm never going back
Posted: Tue Dec 29, 2009 11:23 am
by nottie
Loanrangie wrote:6.5 rangie wrote:theres poly's and theres super pro poly's, the super pros are very good in comparison to normal poly's
Yeah so i've heard, wont be going back anytime soon after having to oxy the last set out
Exactly my reason not to use them
Posted: Tue Dec 29, 2009 7:26 pm
by mcdisco
Also check wheel bearings. They wont cause major issues, but I tightened mine up and it improved things a bit.
Angus
Posted: Tue Dec 29, 2009 7:53 pm
by 6.5 rangie
nottie wrote:Loanrangie wrote:6.5 rangie wrote:theres poly's and theres super pro poly's, the super pros are very good in comparison to normal poly's
Yeah so i've heard, wont be going back anytime soon after having to oxy the last set out
Exactly my reason not to use them
Huh, you won't use super pro poly's cause you have to oxy them out?