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rear body mounts of LWB wagon ripped clean out of floor!!

Tech Talk for Nissan owners.

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Posts: 218
Joined: Thu Jun 26, 2008 6:41 pm
Location: Bundy, QLD

rear body mounts of LWB wagon ripped clean out of floor!!

Post by rumpig89 »

as the title says i have ripped both the body mounts at the rear of gq wagon clean out of the floor - around a 60-70mm hole there now.

i have plans to use 2x1 RHS to lay in between the floor support chanels and weld in there from the inside... cut a piece of floor out to gain access then reweld when done. and plate from below.

if this has happened to anyone and they have pics of there remedies i would be only too happy to look at them :lol:

cheers
Posts: 59
Joined: Wed May 07, 2008 2:58 pm
Location: Melbourne

Post by Look'n 4 Mud »

Hi Mate, this has happened to me also. Bloody savage really.!!

When i did my original body lift i used 50mm high by 50mm diameter steel blocks. These worked great for many years of hard core driving. till someone told me one day that the whole back of my Patrol was moving about over bumps. I had a look and the body blocks had clean sheered through the top of the mount and were floating about.

How i fixed it is.....

Those rear mounts are a funny design and with the captured nuts seem to be almost floating with very little support or bracing. I decided that short of doing some significant cutting and welding it was going to be difficult to address.

I got the ruler out and it turns out that the body mount there is 50mm ( almost exactly) from the underside of the floor in this location. very silly design.

I used the old body block that had punched through the mount as a spacer. I installed a new, 75mm diameter 50mm block in the body lift location. The new block sits directly under the old block which is now "captured" between the old mount and the floor pan, I got an 8mm thick plate 125 x 125, drilled a hole in it and sat it on top of the floor pan as the top washer on the mount and bolted from the top.

So, from the top. The bolt goes through the new plate, through the floor pan, through the 50mm old body block, through the new body block, through the bottom mount and then spring washer and nut!

Tighten er up and your done mate. No welding, No real cutting and bloody strong. Good compression on the blocks and wont move at all.

Hope this helps and is as easy a fix for a bugger of a problem as it was for me.

Cheers mate.
GQ TD42, MTQ Turbo, Frozen Boost IC, Flexi 5", Drop boxes, Locked both ends, Superiors everything. Custom rear bar, sliders, Hi Mount, Plasma. TOY. GU IV TD42T Tourer stock with a list.
Posts: 218
Joined: Thu Jun 26, 2008 6:41 pm
Location: Bundy, QLD

Post by rumpig89 »

sounds easy. so they actual floor pan is plenty strong enough after that plate braces it?

will have to get new 50mm blocks tho cause mine have been ground down a bit from back end bouncing around...
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