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Maruti engine swap Q's

Posted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 10:55 pm
by mrRocky
Ok went to pick up a 1.6 8v carby motor and 5spd out of a zook for $400 which i thought was a steal. Get there and turns out its a baleno injected motor :D :D :D oh yeah got everything from fuel pump to radiator and thermo for $400.

Now cause mine is a 96 maruti the 4 spd is supposed to be externally the same as the 5 spd. Is this true and if so can i just bolt the 5 spd in or do i need to raise the mounts with some t-case mounts.
I plan to use the same method for the engine mounts as per
christover's 1.3 swap thread by using 10mm plate and just positioning the motor on them and drilling the 2 holes.
I have the 1.3 jackshaft and plan to swap the tcase flange for a maruti one, aside from that i cant think of anything else.
Is there anything else im forgetting.

Posted: Fri Dec 18, 2009 12:03 am
by mr green
i used the 10mm plate like christover1. i used a 1.3 gearbox (made my own plate but if i did it again would buy one from BenT.) the jackshaft was the same as a 1.3. the only thing idid notice was the gearstick hole in the tunnel must be a bit further forward than a 1.3 cause when the gearstick went in it sat at the rear of the hole and i had to take a bit off the bracket that holds the boot down.
i guess you know you now need to find another set of extractors?
thats about it i think
btw, mine is a 94 wt maruti. should be identical to yours.

Posted: Fri Dec 18, 2009 9:12 am
by Gutless
The 10mm plate trick won't work for you as you have 1 litre engine mounts, not 1.3. This means they are in the wrong location for the G16.

You can make custom mounts or you can get some from a 1.3 and weld them onto your rails.

If you make custom ones, just sling the motor and 5sp in as one peice, and bolt the 5sp box mount to your x-member before starting your engine mounts.

Pete

Posted: Fri Dec 18, 2009 11:46 am
by mr green
the 10mm plate is for those of us that have th 1.0 mounts. there are some pics of my mounts near the bottom of this page. my engine is sitting lower in the bay than it would if it was on 1.3 mounts but i have a vit efi ( crossover intake) with no body lift so it is a snug fit.
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic106110-0-asc-60.php
Gutless wrote: If you make custom ones, just sling the motor and 5sp in as one peice, and bolt the 5sp box mount to your x-member before starting your engine mounts
this is how i got the engine location right. please excuse the getto bits of rhs but at 8:00 pm and you need your car the next day, compromises have to be made. in saying that, it has been this way for over 12 months and done nearly 10 000km with no dramas.

Posted: Fri Dec 18, 2009 10:04 pm
by mrRocky
Nightmare, :bad-words: its never easy
engine is in, used 10mm plate all be it a fairly large peice. If i was more patient i would have rewelded some 1.3 mounts.
I was suprised the jackshaft and yoke fit.
The rear of the inlet plenum is about 3mm away from the brake cylinder and heater hoses are no more (squashed)
The dizzy and rear water pipe hit by about 1-2 inches so i smashed the firewall with a big hammer till it fit.
Now just have to find a pinout diagram for the ecu which hasnt been labelled and seems to be powered thru the original baleno fuse box which i will ultimately aim to get rid of.
The ecu is as follows

6K
1.6 E24
33920 - 60GM 2
112000 - 4540

If anyone can give us the pinouts or come wire it up that would be very nice.

cheers mick

Posted: Mon Dec 21, 2009 4:41 am
by hooki
haha you just beat me to that engine :) . i was going to buy it a few days before you but i had work so i couldn't grab it. Bloddy bargain for the price hey. I saw you have your 1L for sale on perth4x4, i'll give you a ring this week about it...i'm lookigng for something for my lj80 project.

Posted: Mon Dec 21, 2009 9:03 am
by mrRocky
i was expecting a clapped out carby 8v not a 16v baleno.
still $400 with g/box isnt bad. He's still got a coily/efi tank, near new lifted
springs, climax drop shackles, rear draw system, bucket seats and the whole car minus the wheels. I reckon he'd take $150 for the whole lot.
Id be back there in a flash if i could get this damn wiring figured out.