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radius arm bushes
Posted: Sat Jan 02, 2010 9:25 am
by JAFO74
Hi all, I have just worn out my second set of radius arm bushes in 12 months (approx 8k kms) does this seem to be normal/acceptable?? I am running 6inch lift with 5deg castor plates, adjustable phards etc + 35's and if this seems to be the norm then I'm okay with that but just wanted to check. thanks Jafo74
Posted: Sat Jan 02, 2010 9:48 am
by mhgill
If your not running drop arms or dropboxes the angle you radius arms must be on would be crazy, this is what's damaging the bushes. As your car sits now its as though the front susp is at full droop contsnatly.
You must get bugger all flex too....
Get drop boxes or drop arms and you problem will be solved becuase then the arm will mount to the chassi horistontally not 30 deg or something.
Am I making sense?
Posted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 6:52 am
by RIZZO
definatly drop boxes, for that size lift
Posted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 7:51 am
by coxy321
Are you talking about the diff end, or the chassis end bushes?
Posted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 10:19 am
by JAFO74
The diff end bushes are the ones that are wearing.
It doesn't sit at 'full sag' and also has quite good flex.
Posted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 10:33 am
by coxy321
What brand bushes have you been using? Genuine, non-genuine, nolathane, nolathane with castor sleeve, rubber, slotted rubber....?
Posted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 1:28 pm
by JAFO74
coxy321 wrote:What brand bushes have you been using? Genuine, non-genuine, nolathane, nolathane with castor sleeve, rubber, slotted rubber....?
1st, original, but they didn't last
2nd blue nolathine
and now have just ordered a set from Snake Racing so hopefully they may last a bit better, if not then I will have to install drop boxes but am hesitant as I have heard sum not so good reports about them...
Posted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 2:40 pm
by chunks
Probably from people who don't have them?? Lots and lots of Patrol owners who are very happy with their drop boxes, myself included.
Posted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 3:48 pm
by coxy321
My genuine ones (the original ones) lasted 16-17 years, although they were completely and utterly shagged by this time. I changed to some special rubber ones from SHane at Suspension Stuff, as well as fitting some Superior drop boxes. Car rides 100% better, not steering/diff slop, and it flexes up a lot better. It also rides a lot smoother offroading in general.
I'm not a huge fan of nolathane getting used in places like this (high stress), and IMO they tend to hinder flex. Are you sure your castor is 100% spot on? ie. have you have a wheel alignment and castor check?
Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 1:02 am
by sudso
Get genuine Nissan GU slotted bushes they are the best without a doubt.
I had non slotted Nissan bushes with 5 deg castor plates (6" GQ) at first but they flogged out too so I ditched the lot and bought some Big O drop Arms from Oondy (which are made to suit each inch of lift and correct the castor better than castor plates or castor bushes) and I put GU slotted bushes in them.
It's been great ever since
Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 5:39 am
by JAFO74
yep have had the castor checked and wheel alignment etc done and that is all fine, looks like I am heading towards drop boxes then (cheaper than new arms). Has anybody had trouble with their drop boxes?? have heard they hang up easier, and sometimes almost 'rattle' when on corrigations etc but from a couple of the comments maybe this isn't that big of an issue. thanks
Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 5:47 am
by ozy1
ive run drop boxes for prob just over 6 years, in a GQ and now in my GQ, they have never rattled lose, and ive never been hung up on them, sure ive landed on them alot of times, but they have always slid off what ever i was on,
in my opinion they are great to fix caster if you cant afford arms, which at the time i couldnt, im not even sure i would change them if i had the cash,
Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 5:52 am
by JAFO74
[quote="ozy1"]ive run drop boxes for prob just over 6 years, in a GQ and now in my GQ, they have never rattled lose, and ive never been hung up on them, sure ive landed on them alot of times, but they have always slid off what ever i was on,
Great thanks, this was the info that I was after, looks like the misses isn't gettin that pair earings this week, my other love needs box work, will be ordering today. Thanks all for the help. Jafo
Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 8:29 am
by coxy321
The drop boxes mount up very strongly using the original radius arm mount and an undersized sleeve, as well as using the gearbox crossmember bolts. I haven't heard of any quality drop boxes coming loose or rattling either.
I was worried about them hanging to low and snagging on stuff, but it hasn't happened yet (although i probably don't drive as hard tracks as some of the other people on here).
Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 5:58 pm
by darnoldrs
If you have a look at some dorp boxes fitted then you will see that if your drop boxes do hang up then you would never get the belly over the obstical anyway as the angle from the trailing edge of the tyre to the center of the belly is less than from the tyre to the back edge of the drop box, if that makes sence.
I am more than happy with the way my drop boxes are working.
Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 6:08 pm
by Chopz
do all drop boxes require a little bit of cutting with the grinder to install?
even the ones from supension stuff, or are there different types??
Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 9:38 pm
by coxy321
I had to square off the rounded slot which is actually a recess for the radius arm to clear when the diff drops. It will take you five minutes with a 6" grinder and a thin cutting disc. Make sure you etch prime or metal armour back over the bare metal too (after you clean it up with a file, that is).
Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 8:55 am
by chunks
Start to finish allow a couple of hours to install them and get a mate to help. Also I would recheck the bolts after say 500-1000km as mine needed retightening, but haven't needed anymore tightening since.
Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 2:26 pm
by rusty bus
What is meant by "slotted" castor bushes?? Is the hole the bolt goes through slotted (Cant see it being that) or does the circular bush have gaps in the bush instead of being a solid piece of rubber with a hole in it??
cheers john.
Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 10:32 pm
by A.J.
Exactly that, the bush itself (rubber bit) has "gaps" in it to allow for more flex.
Another vote for drop boxes from me, I've had them for more than a year now and even with hard driving I've never had any issues with them
drop
Posted: Thu Jan 07, 2010 7:59 pm
by Clanky
I have heard a rumour that some people have had the chassis damaged ( cracking) using drop boxes. Is there any truth to this rumour or is it only on hardcore thrashed trucks?
Posted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 9:48 am
by coxy321
The only way i can see that you'd get chassis damage is if you were to hit the diff square-on from the fron - with great force. Can't say i've heard of any myself though. I know there was a problem with a brand of drop arms though, tearing the chassis.
m
Posted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 7:35 pm
by Clanky
How did this particular drop arm tear the chassis?
Re: m
Posted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 7:51 pm
by coxy321
Clanky wrote:How did this particular drop arm tear the chassis?
Have a read:
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic933 ... light=3rds
But, from another thread re: cracks...
Michael, just so you know, the major dramas 3rds had with crackin the ring outa the chassis was related to their earlier arms, where i believe they were using some sort of solid bearing or something along those lines,
but their current ones are using a nylon bush, which is meant to be haps better, i have no dramas with them in ym comp truck,
h
Posted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 9:10 pm
by Clanky
Whoa! Thanks for that link. I would be spewin' if that happened to mine.
Mine is a touring and club trips truck, what would be better - Boxes or arms?
Bear in mind I would prefer reliability over wheel travel
Posted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 9:39 pm
by coxy321
This is just my opinion, but you'd be pretty safe with both. Also keep in mind cost - drop boxes are about half the price (and are a bit easier to install too).
Good luck!
n
Posted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 11:11 pm
by Clanky
I still cant get comfortable about cutting the chassis though. I will have a lie under my truck and work out the stress points. I get nervous about fatigue cracking, so im gonna have to radius the corners etc if I do the boxes.
Re: n
Posted: Sat Jan 09, 2010 6:26 pm
by coxy321
Clanky wrote:I still cant get comfortable about cutting the chassis though. I will have a lie under my truck and work out the stress points. I get nervous about fatigue cracking, so im gonna have to radius the corners etc if I do the boxes.
Its not the actual chassis as such. Have a look and see what you think. If you're still not sure let me know and i'll throw up a pic.
m
Posted: Sat Jan 09, 2010 8:00 pm
by Clanky
I had a look and I am a bit happier.
OK supposing money isnt an issue, would you go boxes or arms on a touring truck?
Last question on this, I promise
Re: m
Posted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 1:36 pm
by coxy321
Clanky wrote:I had a look and I am a bit happier.
OK supposing money isnt an issue, would you go boxes or arms on a touring truck?
Last question on this, I promise
I don't think there is a correct answer for that question. I went boxes because they corrected all of the goemetry back to factory, and also made the ride a lot smoother/free-er moving. My car is mainly used for touring and general camping trips - no outback challenge or rock climbing for me!
Have a search of the nissan section, the box/arm question has been covered many many times in detail, then make a decision based on what you've read.
There is also plenty of input from designers, manufacturers, comp truck owner/drivers and plenty of other owner input to help you make the right choice.