Outer Limits 4x4 Board

as the questions asks

is 2 inch spring lift on a 74 fj45 cruiser enough to run 35inch tyres ?

want to stay away from body lifts if i can.

I don't know from my own experience, but from what i've seen 35's will scrub if you have moderately decent flex.

I know yours is a different vehicle, but Ive only got a 2inch body lift on my 86 lux, I have worn 35s on mine, and no real probs with scrubbing. It might be different if the tyres were new though.

mate has a 45 with a 2" lift running 33" claws and they just scrub on full flex.
You could extend bump stops to fit 35"s but this will severly limit flex your better of with 33"s and being able to articulate well then having 35"s and not. just my opinion though.

Jonezy01 wrote:mate has a 45 with a 2" lift running 33" claws and they just scrub on full flex.
You could extend bump stops to fit 35"s but this will severly limit flex your better of with 33"s and being able to articulate well then having 35"s and not. just my opinion though.

It wont limit flex with it setup right, it just limits up travel, you just have more droop than up travel so you get shocks and/or hoops to match. all in all, imo the lowest point of gravity and the biggest tyres you can fit is the money. All in all maintaining the same articulation just in a different configuration.

You could extend the wheel base with longer springs etc, if the 35s touch on the firewall when flexing.



That's my mates 40 and it has bugger all lift, no body lift and runs 35s without scrubbing at all. There's more than one way to skin a cat, lift isn't always the best/only option.

berad wrote:

Jonezy01 wrote:mate has a 45 with a 2" lift running 33" claws and they just scrub on full flex.
You could extend bump stops to fit 35"s but this will severly limit flex your better of with 33"s and being able to articulate well then having 35"s and not. just my opinion though.

It wont limit flex with it setup right, it just limits up travel, you just have more droop than up travel so you get shocks and/or hoops to match. all in all, imo the lowest point of gravity and the biggest tyres you can fit is the money. All in all maintaining the same articulation just in a different configuration.

You could extend the wheel base with longer springs etc, if the 35s touch on the firewall when flexing.



That's my mates 40 and it has bugger all lift, no body lift and runs 35s without scrubbing at all. There's more than one way to skin a cat, lift isn't always the best/only option.

how did he get the 35s under with bugger all lift ? has he moved the diffs back and ford? how has he got no scrubbing ? cut the gards ?

any more help or idea and aprecaited

Extend wheel base front and rear

pm sent

berad wrote:Extend wheel base front and rear

pm sent

ok cool thanks

how do you move the diff forward to extend the wheel base ?
drill a new hole in the leaf packs?
( you can probably tell my knowagle of 4x4 is limited )

leaf packs from other trucks, custom leaves with a different positioned locarting pin, redrill the spring perch etc.

Some leaf packs, eg the front of my 40, have a center pin thats not in the middle of the pack. I could turn the pack around and it would move my diff foward.

i dont really want to move anything around thats on the chassis EG spring hanger.

You could try and find a leaf pack that suits with a center pin that is offset. No matter what you do it's always a possibility your drive-shafts will be too short, depending on how far you move it obviously. So that's something you may have to modify. Although i'm no expert..

Narrowscopeofreality wrote:You could try and find a leaf pack that suits with a center pin that is offset. No matter what you do it's always a possibility your drive-shafts will be too short, depending on how far you move it obviously. So that's something you may have to modify. Although i'm no expert..

thanks for the help

do you know any brands that do this?

You could get a custom set made up from somewhere like Dobinsons, i've found them pretty good. In an 'off-the-shelf' pack I have no idea what would suit. Someone else may know

is it a ute if so the frounts will scrub a little but not that bad. I am running 35 bfgs on a 78 hj45 ute. Dunno what the springs were before but it now as a set of 2 inch efs in the frount

Zeyphly wrote:is it a ute if so the frounts will scrub a little but not that bad. I am running 35 bfgs on a 78 hj45 ute. Dunno what the springs were before but it now as a set of 2 inch efs in the frount

yea mate its a 74 fj 45 ute..
so no scrubing on the tray.

mate thats the 2inch lifted springs i was wanting to get as they are 500$ cheaper then dobbinsons

i have a 83 fj45 troopy 2" lift and ran 35x13.5 had scrubbing on the inner rear arches and chassi rail and you will have have scrubbing when turning left on the steering arm unless you have converted to 60 series power steer

pcman wrote:i have a 83 fj45 troopy 2" lift and ran 35x13.5 had scrubbing on the inner rear arches and chassi rail and you will have have scrubbing when turning left on the steering arm unless you have converted to 60 series power steer

i will be converting to to 60's power steer soon.. hopefully

is moving the diff forward legal?

Not 100% sure, it probably would be as it will up set castor spring wrap etc etc, although imo there is more dangerous mods out there that have been done, done and done some more, lots of people redrill all types of leaf sprung trucks and i havnt heard any stories of things snapping, diffs falling out rah rah rah.

berad wrote:Not 100% sure, it probably would be as it will up set castor spring wrap etc etc, although imo there is more dangerous mods out there that have been done, done and done some more, lots of people redrill all types of leaf sprung trucks and i havnt heard any stories of things snapping, diffs falling out rah rah rah.

haha cool.
not to sure if i want to run 35's now
as moving the diff foward seems a little out of my reach

you can redrill the perch's, its not hard nor complicated, you should be able to move it foward almost 2 inch's, double check everything is tightened properly and check everything again a week later, if anything it you are gaining a better approach angle for next to nothing, at worst a new set of u bolts and a front shaft spacer.

berad wrote:you can redrill the perch's, its not hard nor complicated, you should be able to move it foward almost 2 inch's, double check everything is tightened properly and check everything again a week later, if anything it you are gaining a better approach angle for next to nothing, at worst a new set of u bolts and a front shaft spacer.

the perch? is this the bit what the leafs sit on ?

if i am able to move the diff foward will this stop the tyre scrubbing?

any pictures of redrilling perchers?

Its the flat "perch", its how the leaf pack bolts to the diff, there is a locating pin in the leaf pack and a hole in the perch that locates it and holds it in place along with the u bolts, you just re drill it 1.5inch toward the back of the perch so when you put the locating pin back in your freshly drilled hole the diff is now moved foward however far you drill the hole, obviously you wouldn't drill the hole 5 mm from the end of the perch, it would pay to buy a new set of u bolts, there only 20 dollars or so.

I Don't know if it will clear 35s, flex the truck until it hits the guard and work out how far it hits by, it shouldnt be hitting 33's by much.

berad wrote:Its the flat "perch", its how the leaf pack bolts to the diff, there is a locating pin in the leaf pack and a hole in the perch that locates it and holds it in place along with the u bolts, you just re drill it 1.5inch toward the back of the perch so when you put the locating pin back in your freshly drilled hole the diff is now moved foward however far you drill the hole, obviously you wouldn't drill the hole 5 mm from the end of the perch, it would pay to buy a new set of u bolts, there only 20 dollars or so.

I Don't know if it will clear 35s, flex the truck until it hits the guard and work out how far it hits by, it shouldnt be hitting 33's by much.

ok so the perch is on the diff?

ok ive figured out what the perch is haha
so if i drill a hole say 1.5inch back from the normal one it should move the diff forward?

what happens to the u bolts ?
do they end up on a angle or something?

I don't see why you guys are talking about moving the front diff forward to clear 35s. A 35 will still be miles away from fitting the back of the guard or firewall. The biggest problem you'll deal with as mentioned is the standard 40 drag link (until you convert to 60 power steer) and hitting the bottom of the guard on compression. As said, adjusting bump stops will fix that.

RAY185 wrote:I don't see why you guys are talking about moving the front diff forward to clear 35s. A 35 will still be miles away from fitting the back of the guard or firewall. The biggest problem you'll deal with as mentioned is the standard 40 drag link (until you convert to 60 power steer) and hitting the bottom of the guard on compression. As said, adjusting bump stops will fix that.

well from what i was getting from the others that moving the diff forward would help to stop the 35s scrubbing on the guard with only a 2inch lift.

surfute wrote:

RAY185 wrote:I don't see why you guys are talking about moving the front diff forward to clear 35s. A 35 will still be miles away from fitting the back of the guard or firewall. The biggest problem you'll deal with as mentioned is the standard 40 drag link (until you convert to 60 power steer) and hitting the bottom of the guard on compression. As said, adjusting bump stops will fix that.

well from what i was getting from the others that moving the diff forward would help to stop the 35s scrubbing on the guard with only a 2inch lift.

If anything, it will make it worse as if you have a look at a 40 series front guard, it tapers down at the front. While you're there, sight up where your wheel is currently sitting and see how far it is from the firewall/rear of guard. There are benefits to extending your wheebase but clearing 35s without a bodylift is not one of them.

RAY185 wrote:

surfute wrote:

RAY185 wrote:I don't see why you guys are talking about moving the front diff forward to clear 35s. A 35 will still be miles away from fitting the back of the guard or firewall. The biggest problem you'll deal with as mentioned is the standard 40 drag link (until you convert to 60 power steer) and hitting the bottom of the guard on compression. As said, adjusting bump stops will fix that.

well from what i was getting from the others that moving the diff forward would help to stop the 35s scrubbing on the guard with only a 2inch lift.

If anything, it will make it worse as if you have a look at a 40 series front guard, it tapers down at the front. While you're there, sight up where your wheel is currently sitting and see how far it is from the firewall/rear of guard. There are benefits to extending your wheebase but clearing 35s without a bodylift is not one of them.

so if i wanted to run 35's id have a 2inch spring lift and then a body lift of some sort?

Just Extend the bumpstops, so the tyres won't come to the top of the guard ettc.