Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Is there any reason NOT to use a Hyland coupling?

It strikes me as much easier to align, works on any ball, look robust, and is the same price as others.

But I haven't used one.

What's not to like?

Thanx
Paul

Ive had both a hyland and a treg. I would never use a treg again.

Treg wears out faster, harder to align, have to carry a separate hitch for the car, cant just hook up camper to any car . and did i mention they suck to align

Hyland easier to use, fits any standard trailer ball, just as flexible off road, just as strong and cheaper

From a bit of reading, Hylands should not be used with any form of load leveling as they will lever themselves off the ball.

Paul, if you're looking for a hyland, get a price then shoot me a PM with the cost and what you're looking for.

I sell the steel to Hyland and might be able to get a better price for you.

can't hurt.

Ben

me3@neuralfibre.com wrote:works on any ball

http://www.campertrailers.org/couplings.htm

The Hyland hitch must be used in conjunction with a 3.5 tonne ball which has a higher stem than the standard 2.5 tonne ball. This allows for proper fitment of the Hyland hitch over the ball allowing clearance without fowling the tow tongue.
Some balls are too short, and then the flat edge of the coupler hits on the tow tounge.


but they are good.

We have a treg hitch and something that I really like about it is that it is very quite offroad.

Cris

why not a AT35?

check out these
http://www.vehiclecomponents.com.au/con ... tentID=655
only problem is they are not hydrolic override, need electric brakes..
think they are about $350

GU-ish wrote:check out these
http://www.vehiclecomponents.com.au/con ... tentID=655
only problem is they are not hydrolic override, need electric brakes..
think they are about $350

I think you will find they are a lot more than $350 but they are a very nice hitch.

Cris

bogged wrote:

me3@neuralfibre.com wrote:works on any ball

http://www.campertrailers.org/couplings.htm

The Hyland hitch must be used in conjunction with a 3.5 tonne ball which has a higher stem than the standard 2.5 tonne ball. This allows for proper fitment of the Hyland hitch over the ball allowing clearance without fowling the tow tongue.
Some balls are too short, and then the flat edge of the coupler hits on the tow tounge.


but they are good.

I thought all towballs where 3500kg these days.

Paul

Anyone know who sells the Hyland hitch around Sydney? I am after one for my off road box trailer / camper.

me3@neuralfibre.com wrote:Is there any reason NOT to use a Hyland coupling?


What's not to like?

Thanx
Paul

There is no reason to not use one, as far as I can see, I have one on my new camper. Fits most new balls, no need for electric brakes and is built strong.
I tried towing the camper through some ordinary situations around my home town, before I take it anywhere, and I cannot fault it.

One of our group damaged a Hyland hitch on a weekend trip - turning on a steep hairpin and a bolt sheared/damaged - I am not familiar with them so I guess who know them will know what I mean.

Hitch was still usable with caution.

Try these guys

http://www.couplemate.com.au/startup.html

Here is a good overview of all hitches

http://www.campertrailers.org/couplings.htm

Cris

I would not recommend a Tregg....mine has a lot of year in after about 5 years. It bangs around quite a bit when the trailer is empty.

I will try and pull it apart this weekend and take some pics.

Cheers

Andrew

Who was the guy that invented the Uni joint coupling, now thats asmart simple Idea.

Wish I had thought of it.

Used a Starndard Cruiser uni too I believe.

mhgill wrote:Who was the guy that invented the Uni joint coupling, now thats asmart simple Idea.

Wish I had thought of it.

Used a Starndard Cruiser uni too I believe.

.

I've never seen that one before.
If it is how i imagine, i would think the Cruiser universal joint would be nowhere near strong enough.
Got any pics and a name of the product?
Where are they available?

Found it.

http://www.mchitch.com.au/

steel wrote:

mhgill wrote:Who was the guy that invented the Uni joint coupling, now thats asmart simple Idea.

Wish I had thought of it.

Used a Starndard Cruiser uni too I believe.

.

I've never seen that one before.
If it is how i imagine, i would think the Cruiser universal joint would be nowhere near strong enough.
Got any pics and a name of the product?
Where are they available?

The requirements for a drawbar are basically 1G weight and 1.5G pull. I imagine the hitch would be similar.
so 3500kg or 5250kg (yeah yeah - not perfect - 9.8N etc)

How much steel to hold 5.25tons?

Paul

mhgill wrote:Found it.

http://www.mchitch.com.au/

That does'nt look strong enough to me.

Uni's normally deal with torsional forces only, the slip joint in a tailshaft ensures that it has no extension or compression forces at all.

Must be up to the task though if they're on the market, they would of been tested to australian standards.

how does that swivel to allow for roll?

does the brake unit swivel like a standard unit?

Looks to me like that one is a for electric brakes and doesn't have an over-ride.
So it swivels at the drawbar mount to allow for roll.

me3@neuralfibre.com wrote:

steel wrote:

mhgill wrote:Who was the guy that invented the Uni joint coupling, now thats asmart simple Idea.

Wish I had thought of it.

Used a Starndard Cruiser uni too I believe.

.

I've never seen that one before.
If it is how i imagine, i would think the Cruiser universal joint would be nowhere near strong enough.
Got any pics and a name of the product?
Where are they available?

The requirements for a drawbar are basically 1G weight and 1.5G pull. I imagine the hitch would be similar.
so 3500kg or 5250kg (yeah yeah - not perfect - 9.8N etc)

How much steel to hold 5.25tons?

Paul

Well think of a chain capable of lifting 5.25 tonnes (and rated to lift 5.25 tonnes)

its a tiny bit of steel really, maybe 12mm links of steel? the centre of a uni joint is much bigger.

garrycol wrote:One of our group damaged a Hyland hitch on a weekend trip - turning on a steep hairpin and a bolt sheared/damaged - I am not familiar with them so I guess who know them will know what I mean.

Hitch was still usable with caution.

Did they have a std ball or were they using the higher stem ball (which is available from Hyland) Otherwise the hitch can bind on the tongue on extreme articulation and cause it to shear something.