Outer Limits 4x4 Board

After throwing some ideas around with Micka I have decided I want to try a diff combo out that I think will be an awsome reasonably priced diff. So I am posting in here as no point putting it in the wanted section. Hope its OK with the forum Mods.

I am after a rear 4.7 series salisbury diff. Don't really care if it has no brakes or crap brakes or whatever as I am interested in the center section only with its tubes.
Oh and i don't really want to pay bugger all (as I might just hack it and dump the idea
Brisbane would be prefered or possibly pick up from tuff truck.
PM would be fine or post in here.
If i find one ill share with all what silly idea i have for the diff

Remember i need cheep
Oh and this is not a street friendly combo.

Cheers Guys.

I have some ideas what you have in mind...

I have one spare 4.7 Sals - that I bought from bubs for $200 - however I was planning to build a front from that.

I have a couple of 3.5 sals spare though - the casings are the same - so if you want a housing to build everything - let me know.

Sounds like a front diff coming up!

Can you make a DS drop from it?

Slunnie wrote:Sounds like a front diff coming up!

This is a lot more exciting than that

Ben sssshhhhhhhh

Yeah the 4.7 is where i want to be with this set up as to keep the gearing and not have to use gears in the case.

I can get 4.7 series diffs up at the landy wreckers at Gympie but they want $200 a pop and well ill have to drive to Gympie and thats not fun.


Yeah slunnie we are talking a front and rear here and will be running upside down which will make them a high pinion Hopefully.

if your plaining on putting mogs on the end of it i rekon your wasting you time. it will be a heavy mofo and you dont really need that centre to be so big i'd use a cruiser or even hilux centre. I dont belive you would breake either of these with the reduction after them and worst case there easy to get hold of and swap out.
just my 2c

That's true, Dave. US guys do run D44 diffs with them without too many dramas and Hilux carp is eay to get when they break.

But a Salisbury wont break in that scenario. And there is every chance that the diff could end up lighter than a stock 404 given that they are twin tubed and heavy as fark already. I can lift a Salisbury axel from a Rover on my own, but there is no way in hell I can lift a Mog. And Salisbury's have been proven in rock buggies here and overseas.

Oh yeah...and 35 spline axels with Detroits are cool.

I ran an 80serries diff for 2 years in the rear of my buggy and only broke 2 after mark axles no centres at all. i have run my Dana 60 for half a comp season and half a dozen rec trips and its got a craked crown wheel and twisted axles

That's because when you had the Toy stuff you wheeled accordingly. As soon as the Solids went it you drove like they were made of Kryptonite

cracked crown is due to incorrect lapping isnt it????

Come on micka, its not really a mog without those big pinions

Dave Why bust in and spill the beans???
And why wouldnt we try to build the toughest diffs we can???
Going off what you say then i Guess Pete wasted his money time after time with using 9 inch centres with his portals???? He should have just gone with a damn yota centre then hay.
Last i checked you cant put a 35 spline into a yota diff.


They will be a shit load lighter then a full mog diff with the salsbury centre. And have high grade custom axels. We have even got a fix to strengthen the portel box as so we dont crack them. Yeah they will hang a little but hay we have portal boxes to give us under diff clearance.

Thanks anyway for your opinion though Dave. If we had yota centres with locks in them we would have thought about using them. But from a starting from scratch point of view we are going to go down this path.

When we are more under way on these babies if anyone wants to know prices on setting up a set of these then just send me a PM and ill keep you in the loop. We are very surprised so far as to how cheep these will be to set up with the prices we have obtained so far.

Cheers Nottie

keep us informed, sounds interesting. I'd better hang on to that series3 sals i have.
now just have chase a fender sals for the rear

For those interested The absolute legend Keith from www.Rovertracks.com will be doing all the custom axels for these.

Still nailing the specs on the material to use but he will be producing them for us.

Is there any differences in the housing strengths between the leafer Salisburys, the 110 Salisbury and the 130's?

Slunnie wrote:Is there any differences in the housing strengths between the leafer Salisburys, the 110 Salisbury and the 130's?

It has been mentioned that the 130s have strengthened housings (somehow???)

I do know the axle tubes on a sals are thinner than a D60 - which saves a fair bit of weight.

nottie wrote:For those interested The absolute legend Keith from www.Rovertracks.com will be doing all the custom axels for these.

Still nailing the specs on the material to use but he will be producing them for us.

Did you guys approach Barry at Hi Tough Eng. at all?

uninformed wrote:

nottie wrote:For those interested The absolute legend Keith from www.Rovertracks.com will be doing all the custom axels for these.

Still nailing the specs on the material to use but he will be producing them for us.

Did you guys approach Barry at Hi Tough Eng. at all?

No Serg.

My discussions with Keith have been nothing but positive and since dealing with him over the past 18 months or so on a regular basis, my opinion and respect for him and his products is sky high. I know Barry does excellent work, but RoverTracks will be getting my business.

Plus, there is more to the story that I will not go into, that solidifies my respect for Keith and RoverTracks.

Slunnie wrote:Is there any differences in the housing strengths between the leafer Salisburys, the 110 Salisbury and the 130's?

Apparently the 110 Salsburys have a 6mm wall tube, and the 130's have an 8mm wall tube. OD of both is 80mm

Rgds
Pete

Micka wrote:

uninformed wrote:

nottie wrote:For those interested The absolute legend Keith from www.Rovertracks.com will be doing all the custom axels for these.

Still nailing the specs on the material to use but he will be producing them for us.

Did you guys approach Barry at Hi Tough Eng. at all?

No Serg.

My discussions with Keith have been nothing but positive and since dealing with him over the past 18 months or so on a regular basis, my opinion and respect for him and his products is sky high. I know Barry does excellent work, but RoverTracks will be getting my business.

Plus, there is more to the story that I will not go into, that solidifies my respect for Keith and RoverTracks.

No worries, I totally understand. It would be nice to see Barry do some custom work, but their isnt a big call for it here, along with people saying things like Hytuf cant be heat treated in oz etc makes it difficult.

good luck with the project, hope to see some pics down the track.

Serg we have in the past got products from Barry (and so have others that dont realize it ) His work is absolutely outstanding.

If Micka wasnt going to use Keith then i am shore he or we would have spokn to Barry to see what he was able to do for the project. As we have no doubt he would be able to do what we need. And at a level of quality thats hard to find.

Cheers jamie

Petes wrote:

Slunnie wrote:Is there any differences in the housing strengths between the leafer Salisburys, the 110 Salisbury and the 130's?

Apparently the 110 Salsburys have a 6mm wall tube, and the 130's have an 8mm wall tube. OD of both is 80mm

Rgds
Pete

Series 3 are 5.6mm wall - I measured one today. I am sure 110s would be the same.

If research is right i thnk we will be using a 12mm wall tube

Ben, thanks for this!

Nottie, is that still a salisbury? Whats that out of? Surely beyond a 130 if it is.

we will be re tubing the sals centre for strength

nottie wrote:we will be re tubing the sals centre for strength

Wouldn't it be easier to just use standard tube and just run a brace between the tubes??? I have never known a sals to bend, but there have been a couple of tubes which have cracked, but only where they are plug welded to the cast centre (or very close to).

Running thicker tube won't necessarily help.

we have to retube it to offset
the centre to the correct spot anyway and the material size is also so the mog flanged end will slid in (pressed tight) and be able to be welded.so all we are really using is the centre carrier and the crown and pinion.

Anyone after some cheep drums and axels for a salisbury.






( Ben have MR sent the case to you yet? )

nottie wrote:
( Ben have MR sent the case to you yet? )

Not yet.

fair enough on the rest.

Any progress pics you know we need pics

Jeff

another month has gone

must be some new now


Jeff