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altinator good or stuffed, td42 gq

Posted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 9:40 pm
by jem jem
Hi all, just wonder wat volts should the altinator be charging at the battery>?? my gq is a 93 with 350k+ksIdle is at 12.8-13, full rpm IS ONLY 13.8 IS THIS CORRECT> if no wat is.. can get 2x different new altinators, one is a 9amp or there is a 120 amp one. $350-$550 :roll:

Posted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 10:09 pm
by familybus
just disconnect your battery while its runnin and if it stalls then its stuffed! afaik

Posted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 11:36 pm
by DamTriton
familybus wrote:just disconnect your battery while its runnin and if it stalls then its stuffed! afaik
And if is wasn't stuffed before, it surely will be after doing this....

Never run a vehicle without a battery connected to the alternator.

Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 7:41 am
by festy
13v at idle, 13.8v at speed sounds ok.
Is that 13v at idle measured shortly after starting? If so, it may increase a bit after recharging the drain that cranking took out.
Check your battery voltage after it's been sitting overnight or longer - if it's around 12.6-12.7v then your alternator is charging it fine.

altinator

Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 10:50 am
by jem jem
Have dual battery in it had arb smart solinoid batterys both went flat after bout 2-3 weeks driveing 2hours to and from work everyday with the arb fridge hooked up and running on 1(lowest setting). thought solinoid was stuffed. so put a basic solinoid , sorta dose the same thing, turned the fridge off and it seems fine.....??? batterys are 1 year old heavy duty... :cry:

Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 11:07 am
by festy
What's your fridge connected to, the aux or main battery?
Assuming the aux battery, not sure how the fridge could be flattening your main battery...

What's the current draw from both with everything switched off?

Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 3:40 pm
by Red Dog 4x4
Dose it have the vac pump on the back of it?

If not a GU 4.2 ( 100 amp ) will bolt on you just have to change the plug to a gu one or cut the plug off and put some spade conecterson and chage the fuse next to the main battery to a 100 amp fuse. Cost me $250 for a new one.

Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 8:10 pm
by jem jem
vacume pump on rear.. can get a 90amp for 350 new or a 120amp for 550new.

ok , tryed a few things . driving home today. 12.9 put lights on 12.1-12.3 turn off 12.8-13.1-12.9 fridge has been off for 2days.....

Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 9:37 pm
by suggy126
Before buying a new alternator, try running a new heavier cable direct from your alt charge bort to the positive on your battery and see if your charge increeses, probably will. Patrol's never actually had a thick enough cable for the alternator and as they get older they get worse. I'm running 2B&S cable for mine because i now have a 120 amp alt on mine and i had the cable lying there, but ithink you'll see a voltage jump if you do run a heavier cable, 6 or 4 B&S should be heaps.

Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 10:42 pm
by jem jem
i have heaps of 2b&s will try that thanks... the 120 amp good>???
] :roll:

Posted: Fri Jan 15, 2010 7:22 pm
by suggy126
Love it, i draw 80amps on high beam and it still keeps my batteries as 14v, only complaint is it doesn't start charging till 1500 rpm, but I'm aware of it so it's not a problem. Let me know how the charging circuit goes.

Posted: Sat Jan 23, 2010 1:38 pm
by its aford not a nissan
your alt is fine , just the bodgey factory wiring is no good

run another cable from your battery though a fuseable link and to your alt ( ie: double up on your main chargeing wire ) , and there should be 2 more wires leave the white with red stripe wire in place and cut off the white wire leaving enough on the plug end to join another wire to it , then run this wire to your battery ,

this white wire is the voltage sense wire and on the factory loom it just joins into the charge wire 2-300 mm up from the alt , so it is sensing the voltage in this wire and not the battery , if you do get a bigger alt i would do this anyway as the bigger alt will need a bigger wire to make use of the extra amps