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MQ Question/Queries
Posted: Sat May 29, 2004 9:43 pm
by Shark
Okay question time
1. Can you replace every rubber seal thats in a MQ, either LWB or SWB?? The seals on my car are getting hard and cracking and i wanna start to replace them.
2. Can you run the diesel without both the airfilters. I mean do you have to run the prefilter??
3.Gonna be chasing some lifted springs soon, anyone know of a good brand at a good price or anone got any alternatives??
Cheers guys there is some more but cant think of them right now
Marc
Re: MQ Question/Queries
Posted: Sun May 30, 2004 10:05 am
by V8Patrol
Shark wrote:Okay question time
1. Can you replace every rubber seal thats in a MQ, either LWB or SWB?? The seals on my car are getting hard and cracking and i wanna start to replace them.
All seals are readily available.
Shark wrote:2. Can you run the diesel without both the airfilters. I mean do you have to run the prefilter??
you can remove the prefilter without any major risk whatsoever, but if your doing an outback journey put it back in !!
Shark wrote:3.Gonna be chasing some lifted springs soon, anyone know of a good brand at a good price or anone got any alternatives??
here's where the yellow pages phonebook comes in handy ...... let ya fingers do the walking !!!, for a cheaper way out look at getting them reset. Its not quite as good as new but usually cheaper and will last ok for normal use...... wont last long if your doing alot of hard offroad stuff but.
Mine are from a truck specialist and are excelent but wernt cheap. it will pay to shop around for springs....... hint when you find a new set supplier in your area get a set of "heavy duty" OR "towing pak " springs.... this way you can remove leaves to increase flex and add them back later on if so desired.
Kingy
Re: MQ Question/Queries
Posted: Sun May 30, 2004 10:18 pm
by MQ080
Shark wrote:Okay question time
1. Can you replace every rubber seal thats in a MQ, either LWB or SWB?? The seals on my car are getting hard and cracking and i wanna start to replace them.
2. Can you run the diesel without both the airfilters. I mean do you have to run the prefilter??
3.Gonna be chasing some lifted springs soon, anyone know of a good brand at a good price or anone got any alternatives??
Cheers guys there is some more but cant think of them right now
Marc
1. just buy new you cheapskate!
2. yes
3. I bought Enforcer 2" kit including springs, bushes, etc. worst kit ever the only good thing about it was the price. Some of the parts were incorrect and needed modifying. Bushes didn't fit and the car sat lopsided eventhough the springs were on the right side... and the front had too much set in the so the shackles were inverted just about all of the time
DON'T BE CHEAP!
Posted: Mon May 31, 2004 12:50 am
by Shark
I never said anything about being cheap with the seals
The seals i want good ones cause i hate it when the leak. As for the springs its hard to make a decsion on wether to get them reset or go for a new set and if i decide to go for a new set what brand will be the best?? Can u only get a 2" or is there a 3" available??
When i rang around for some quotes a while ago there seems to be alot of add ons, not just the 4 springs. What else should i need if anything when buying and installing a new set of springs??
Cheers
Marc
Posted: Mon May 31, 2004 10:15 am
by skippy's GQ
go with
tough dog suspension there top quality and not to dear.
www.4waysuspension.com.au
Posted: Mon May 31, 2004 1:01 pm
by Screwy
another one answered, wats next down the list
Posted: Mon May 31, 2004 6:55 pm
by MQ080
you want bushes, springs and longer shocks - put this on the must buy list
Posted: Tue Jun 01, 2004 1:16 am
by Shark
There just seems so much " extra" stuff they seem to come up with. New u bolts etc.
I would rather ask the questions now than get ripped off when i go to spend the money.
Oh and i got my car serviced the other day and the mechanic described it as " breathy " I forgot to ask him what it meant, anyone have a idea?? Its a straight diesel with 160k on the clock.
Marc
Posted: Tue Jun 01, 2004 8:26 am
by V8Patrol
Shark wrote:There just seems so much " extra" stuff they seem to come up with. New u bolts etc.
I would rather ask the questions now than get ripped off when i go to spend the money.
Ofcourse its smart to be "informed" with the right knowledge before ya make a commitment to a major purchase, so ask away
As for the "extra stuff", most manafactures do it as a courtesy thing.... imagine getting a new waterpump home only to find you then needed a waterpump gasket, you could of course use the old one and apply a heap of silicon !
If a manafacturer supplies or recemends new Ubolts with the springs then more than likely its for a reason..... IE: maybe the springpaks are thicker than the std set which would in turn require longer U bolts.... that would annoy the hell out of you on a saturday arvo when you have it all stripped down ready to fit em and find your old u bolts are too short !!
Perhaps you might damage a thread while undoing the old nuts ..... have you got a replacement handy ???
A search on this forum would show others have broken their Ubolts, usually its an age thing that causes em to let go ..... the metal simply becomes brittle with age. As most ppl mod their rigs they dont allow for the extra stress they are placing on the old componets, even a new set of springs adds new stresses to the old Ubolts.
Take what you need from the manafacturers ....... you can always take the "extra stuff" back for a refund after the new bits are fitted if your worried about the dollars..... alternativley you can replace the old stuff with all new bits and store the old stuff as spares or put it in the for sale section
Posted: Tue Jun 01, 2004 11:54 am
by bazzle
Oh and i got my car serviced the other day and the mechanic described it as " breathy " I forgot to ask him what it meant, anyone have a idea?? Its a straight diesel with 160k on the clock
He prob means it has a bit of crankcase breathing, ie ring blow by.
Not always a problem as a lot of older motors do just this.
Give it a couple of good oil changes and see if it changes.
Carbon removing oil can be used if rings or crosshatching contaminated.
Bazzle
Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2004 9:01 pm
by Shark
Hey guys got some more questions
1. The grill is held on with some weird screws, is there an easy way to remove these, i have had some major trouble with these before.
2. The steering is very vague on my patrol like every other one i have evry driven. Anyone know what it is so i can try and fix it.
There are more but thats all i can think of at the moment.
Cheers
Marc
Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2004 9:50 pm
by berazafi
if your going to remove the prefilter put a snorkle on the prefilter also acts as a water seperator (wont do you much good if you are submurged though but its a nice thing to have). As for the springs i was looking for some then learnt about soa have a look at members section for screwys car
Posted: Wed Jun 09, 2004 10:42 am
by V8Patrol
Shark wrote:Hey guys got some more questions
1. The grill is held on with some weird screws, is there an easy way to remove these, i have had some major trouble with these before.
The "weird" screws are simple things to undo ...... just rotate the head 90 degrees and it should come undone...... its more of a "twist n lock" screw than a real screw..... I replaced mine with teck screws
Shark wrote:2. The steering is very vague on my patrol like every other one i have evry driven. Anyone know what it is so i can try and fix it.
try adjusting the "backlash"..... on the steering box is a lacknut and either a allen head or blade screwdriver slot. Undo the locknut about 1/2 a turn, and tighten the other bolt untill the lash in ya steering wheel dissapears then just retighten up the lock nut.
All so for the vague feel get a front end check done...... this will tell you if you have worn bearings/tierodends/etc etc.
( let me know if ya need a pic of this nut on the steering box)
Kingy
Posted: Fri Jun 11, 2004 9:57 am
by Shark
Tried that steering stuff you mentioned and no improvement whatsoever. I kinda wanna get an idea what needs to be looked at before i go wandering up to the local mechanic with me car and a jar of vasoline
Makes a pretty bad clunking noise sometimes??!
Marc
Posted: Sat Jun 12, 2004 12:19 pm
by MQ080
Shark wrote:Tried that steering stuff you mentioned and no improvement whatsoever. I kinda wanna get an idea what needs to be looked at before i go wandering up to the local mechanic with me car and a jar of vasoline
Makes a pretty bad clunking noise sometimes??!
Marc
Check play in bearings i.e. jack up each front wheel hand on top and bottom do this as well with hands at 9 and 3 o'clock. Next get someone moving the play in the steering wheel and jump under the front and watch where all of the movement goes- does it get absorbed by just one joint? and also give the drag link and tie rod a good rotation by hand. This is pretty much what a mechanic would do.
Posted: Sat Jun 12, 2004 4:42 pm
by Screwy
Alright guys,
Slightly off the topic a little bit but,
When u soa an MQ there are steering difficulties. I had massive, uncontrollable steering shudder in it with the old setup and then i went to the new setup. Since getting the car running again after the V8 episode, ive got that massive steering shudder again sometimes when i go over a bump.
It has happened twice now in 3 days and has caused me to pull over cause its uncontrollable.
Wat could be up here??
PS. sorry for hijacking the thread a little
screwy
Posted: Sat Jun 12, 2004 6:31 pm
by Shark
Hey Screwy WTF get off my thread
Nah its cool but i gotta another more important question that my other questions.
When i owned my first MQ to turn off the car you had to pull a choke like lever next to the steering wheel. Now with my current MQ it is onviously done by another mean as it turns off when you switch it off via the key.
Recently the car has still been running after you have switched the car off at the key. This doesnt happen all the time but is becoming more and more frequent and am wondering what it might be. A couple of times the car after being switched off sounded like it was running on half fuel.
I spoke to someone about this a while ago and he said that my MQ has an electric driven lever which replaces the choke type cut off on my old MQ.
Could this be stuffing up?? Getting a few weird noises from the engine bay sometimes. Is there supposed to be noise when u glow the plugs??
Cheers for all ur help so far guys.
Marc
Posted: Sat Jun 12, 2004 7:17 pm
by Screwy
Shark wrote:Hey Screwy WTF get off my thread
Nah its cool but i gotta another more important question that my other questions.
When i owned my first MQ to turn off the car you had to pull a choke like lever next to the steering wheel. Now with my current MQ it is onviously done by another mean as it turns off when you switch it off via the key.
Recently the car has still been running after you have switched the car off at the key. This doesnt happen all the time but is becoming more and more frequent and am wondering what it might be. A couple of times the car after being switched off sounded like it was running on half fuel.
I spoke to someone about this a while ago and he said that my MQ has an electric driven lever which replaces the choke type cut off on my old MQ.
Could this be stuffing up?? Getting a few weird noises from the engine bay sometimes. Is there supposed to be noise when u glow the plugs??
Cheers for all ur help so far guys.
Marc
sorry dude
Posted: Sat Jun 12, 2004 7:22 pm
by berazafi
there is a electric motor that controls the fuel pump settings, the first one you had prob had it bypassed with a cord, just clean it out with some wd40 there is a little drain tube at the bottom you can squirt it up, also check the connectors going to it
Posted: Sun Jun 13, 2004 2:46 am
by Shark
Where is this electric motor located??
Marc
Posted: Sun Jun 13, 2004 7:50 am
by buger man
V8Patrol wrote:Shark wrote:Hey guys got some more questions
1. The grill is held on with some weird screws, is there an easy way to remove these, i have had some major trouble with these before.
The "weird" screws are simple things to undo ...... just rotate the head 90 degrees and it should come undone...... its more of a "twist n lock" screw than a real screw..... I replaced mine with teck screws
Shark wrote:2. The steering is very vague on my patrol like every other one i have evry driven. Anyone know what it is so i can try and fix it.
try adjusting the "backlash"..... on the steering box is a lacknut and either a allen head or blade screwdriver slot. Undo the locknut about 1/2 a turn, and tighten the other bolt untill the lash in ya steering wheel dissapears then just retighten up the lock nut.
All so for the vague feel get a front end check done...... this will tell you if you have worn bearings/tierodends/etc etc.
( let me know if ya need a pic of this nut on the steering box)
Kingy
if you adjust the steering box do it with the weels turned just a bit if you do it in the straight ahead position and the box is badly worn it will jam up when you turn the steering
Posted: Sun Jun 13, 2004 7:47 pm
by buger man
If you have side play in your front shackles it will make it wander . I know from exprenace
Posted: Sun Jun 13, 2004 7:50 pm
by buger man
Shark wrote:Hey Screwy WTF get off my thread
Nah its cool but i gotta another more important question that my other questions.
When i owned my first MQ to turn off the car you had to pull a choke like lever next to the steering wheel. Now with my current MQ it is onviously done by another mean as it turns off when you switch it off via the key.
Recently the car has still been running after you have switched the car off at the key. This doesnt happen all the time but is becoming more and more frequent and am wondering what it might be. A couple of times the car after being switched off sounded like it was running on half fuel.
I spoke to someone about this a while ago and he said that my MQ has an electric driven lever which replaces the choke type cut off on my old MQ.
Could this be stuffing up?? Getting a few weird noises from the engine bay sometimes. Is there supposed to be noise when u glow the plugs??
Cheers for all ur help so far guys.
Marc
YES
Posted: Sun Jun 13, 2004 8:35 pm
by slacker
the electric motor thingy (forgotten it's correct name) connects to the injection pump. I have had to pull it apart twice, on my first MQ and now my senod one. Just pull it apart and clean it out and regrese the cogs and clean electrical points . Worked for me
Posted: Sun Jun 13, 2004 10:03 pm
by Shark
WHERE THE HELL IS IT LOCATED!!! Great if it can be cleaned but where do i find it??????
Need to know sick of stopping my car by stalling it
The info is great just need that little bit more so i can fix the problem. Dont feel like spending $ on an auto electrician if i dont have to.
Marc
Posted: Sun Jun 13, 2004 10:34 pm
by buger man
ON the side of the injector pump think it has a motor like a power window motor if you have some one turne thekey of and on while you look you will see the shaft go around
Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2004 12:44 am
by Shark
Injector pump, shaft going round...hmmmm that could be a worry
Unplugged the connections and plugged them back in again and she's turning off no worries. Will take it apart later in the week just to be sure.
Thanks guys
Anyone know of a good electrical solvent type cleaner???
Marc
Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2004 9:19 pm
by Screwy
WD40 works well!!!!
Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2004 10:38 pm
by V8Patrol
your local "Autopro", "Autobarn", "Repco" shops should have a product on the shelf to suit. just ask em
Kingy
Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2004 10:44 pm
by slacker
crc electrical cleaner should do the trick it's about $20 a can. Screwy i was told that wd40,rp7 etc is the worst thing u can use for electrical stuff. It dries out moistuer and stuff but also puts a film around the contact which can also stop them from making a good connection, this is what i was told by a couple of different auot electricians but i guess it will do the trick if u get stuck