Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Trying to save a bit of coin & want to start servicing my 100series myself. I've always had the car regularly serviced at a mechanic & thought nothing more so i'm not familiar on what they do.

If people could suggest some things i should do/check that would be great. I check my oil/coolant/water etc levels regularly but i need to know things like how to change oil, oil filter & more.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, taa

if you need to learn how to change oil, maybe try a basic mechanics tafe course so you can understand where to start.

Look at your service manual it will tell you what needs to be replaced/flushed/checked etc at any given interval.

oil is simple, remove oil drain bung on bottom of engine, drain oil into a pan and dispose of with an oil recycler. remove oil filter (unscrew) if its too tight go and buy a tool to grip it.

smear oil on new filter seal and screw into place.

refit oil bung.

check manual for oil volume required and add 90% of this. check dip stick. if ok then turn over the engine briefly this will fill voids and oil filter.

recheck dip stick and re fill as needed to reach upper limit of full.

maybe get a mate who does it to help the first time.

Replace Oil/air/fuel Filters and oil
Check all rubber hoses/parts,check oil levels Diffs,gearbox/transfer,auto
check tyre pressure, Colour of coolent,replace thermostste.
Have alook around the car and under it ,Look for Something strange like Something clean when everything is Dirty (something rubbing),oil leaks,Anything looks lose or is hanging

I never save Money on servicing mine myself .
What I would of paid a Mechanic wages I spend on parts
I also over do my services ,I put a cheaper filter and oil in Run that for 20-30 mins then drop that out and Put My better quality filter and oil on

The boys are onto it yenots.

Your prob better off just finding someone to show you how to change your oil and filter. A six pack would be a nominal fee.

beinthemud wrote:I never save Money on servicing mine myself .
What I would of paid a Mechanic wages I spend on parts
I also over do my services ,I put a cheaper filter and oil in Run that for 20-30 mins then drop that out and Put My better quality filter and oil on

That's pretty anal mud. Do you use oil sampling?

Yes I agree i did say I over did it Anal would be right to .
Were the Distributors for shell in Melbourne so from time to time I Bottle a Sample and send it to them for testing

beinthemud wrote:I never save Money on servicing mine myself .
What I would of paid a Mechanic wages I spend on parts
I also over do my services ,I put a cheaper filter and oil in Run that for 20-30 mins then drop that out and Put My better quality filter and oil on

I hope your talking about a ferrari or a mclaren F1, otherwise you are pissing your money into the wind.

Shadow wrote:

beinthemud wrote:I never save Money on servicing mine myself .
What I would of paid a Mechanic wages I spend on parts
I also over do my services ,I put a cheaper filter and oil in Run that for 20-30 mins then drop that out and Put My better quality filter and oil on

I hope your talking about a ferrari or a mclaren F1, otherwise you are pissing your money into the wind.

What $60

Shadow wrote:

beinthemud wrote:I never save Money on servicing mine myself .
What I would of paid a Mechanic wages I spend on parts
I also over do my services ,I put a cheaper filter and oil in Run that for 20-30 mins then drop that out and Put My better quality filter and oil on

I hope your talking about a ferrari or a mclaren F1, otherwise you are pissing your money into the wind.

not to mention wasting resources

What resources

Oh you meen The resources I dont use because my cars well sevices so uses less fuel , Runs better,dosent burn Oil, or the ones in which I recycle my used Oil and filters

beinthemud wrote:What resources

Oh you meen The resources I dont use because my cars well sevices so uses less fuel , Runs better,dosent burn Oil, or the ones in which I recycle my used Oil and filters

Wasting 10l of oil and a filter on your engine every 5000k's does not improve your fuel economy.

I really hope you dont believe it does....

Shadow wrote:

beinthemud wrote:What resources

Oh you meen The resources I dont use because my cars well sevices so uses less fuel , Runs better,dosent burn Oil, or the ones in which I recycle my used Oil and filters

Wasting 10l of oil and a filter on your engine every 5000k's does not improve your fuel economy.

I really hope you dont believe it does....

I hope you dont believe what you said for your engines sake.
Engine Oil has no effect on engine Performance
Oh so your saying that even though That most Places recomend that my engines oil Should be changed around 5000ks ,Thats aload of rubbish it should go to alot further and when it turns to sludge itll have no effect on engine performance

So when I went to one of my Customer who had a 2tr old car there that had not been service in a year or so and the engine was farked, that the Engine would of been running at peak performance the whole time

Geess all those years Listening to Shell,Mobil ,Penrite and all the time they were talking Rubbish ,dam I wasted my life

beinthemud wrote:

Shadow wrote:

beinthemud wrote:What resources

Oh you meen The resources I dont use because my cars well sevices so uses less fuel , Runs better,dosent burn Oil, or the ones in which I recycle my used Oil and filters

Wasting 10l of oil and a filter on your engine every 5000k's does not improve your fuel economy.

I really hope you dont believe it does....

I hope you dont believe what you said for your engines sake.
Engine Oil has no effect on engine Performance
Oh so your saying that even though That most Places recomend that my engines oil Should be changed around 5000ks ,Thats aload of rubbish it should go to alot further and when it turns to sludge itll have no effect on engine performance

I'm talking about the 10l of oil you put through your engine for 20minutes and dump, you do this every 5000k's, or have I read what you wrote incorrectly?

The oil in a 1HDFTE will easily go to 7500k's, and likely further, but why risk it, just change it every 5000k's and be safe. There was a guy on here who did oil analysis at various intervals and came to this conclusion, as have many other people who have done oil analysis on light diesel engines.

Changing it at 5000k's to fresh oil, then dropping that oil atfer 20minutes and putting a different oil is just plain stupid in my opinion.

Modern oils are a very complicated mixture and moxing two oils together can have undesirable effects.

Sorry Mines 5ltrs anywherefrom 23-30mins and then the Next 5ltrs stays there for around 5000k but could be done again 3000ks

Shadow wrote:

beinthemud wrote:

Shadow wrote:

beinthemud wrote:What resources

Oh you meen The resources I dont use because my cars well sevices so uses less fuel , Runs better,dosent burn Oil, or the ones in which I recycle my used Oil and filters

Wasting 10l of oil and a filter on your engine every 5000k's does not improve your fuel economy.

I really hope you dont believe it does....

I hope you dont believe what you said for your engines sake.
Engine Oil has no effect on engine Performance
Oh so your saying that even though That most Places recomend that my engines oil Should be changed around 5000ks ,Thats aload of rubbish it should go to alot further and when it turns to sludge itll have no effect on engine performance

I'm talking about the 10l of oil you put through your engine for 20minutes and dump, you do this every 5000k's, or have I read what you wrote incorrectly?

The oil in a 1HDFTE will easily go to 7500k's, and likely further, but why risk it, just change it every 5000k's and be safe. There was a guy on here who did oil analysis at various intervals and came to this conclusion, as have many other people who have done oil analysis on light diesel engines.

Changing it at 5000k's to fresh oil, then dropping that oil atfer 20minutes and putting a different oil is just plain stupid in my opinion.

Modern oils are a very complicated mixture and moxing two oils together can have undesirable effects.

Sorry then you have No idea how oils work
Mixing Brands dosent realy meen anything and has no Undesirable effects as long as they meet or exceed current or similar standards API CH-4SJ -A3/B3 Now I Think the First a3/b4 standards are coming out from Mobil
Mixing weight is a big no no (mixing 5w30 with say 10w50 or so)
Heres a useless bit of Information Most oil companys No longer warrent there oil Over 10,000ks again Mobil are the only ones realy ,They tend to lead and other follow (I dont use Mobil for the Record)

beinthemud wrote:Sorry Mines 5ltrs anywherefrom 23-30mins and then the Next 5ltrs stays there for around 5000k but could be done again 3000ks

Isnt it better to stick to one type of oil? IE. Not really supposed to mix different oils?

When you drain the cheaper oil, there will still prob be 100-200ml or more left in the engine, then it mixes with the better oil.

Im sure you would be using the same grade, and if using either semi synthetic, full synthetic or mineral, using the same for the "flush"?

I know you admit you over-do it... but man you over do it!

mike_nofx wrote:

beinthemud wrote:Sorry Mines 5ltrs anywherefrom 23-30mins and then the Next 5ltrs stays there for around 5000k but could be done again 3000ks

Isnt it better to stick to one type of oil? IE. Not really supposed to mix different oils?

When you drain the cheaper oil, there will still prob be 100-200ml or more left in the engine, then it mixes with the better oil.

Im sure you would be using the same grade, and if using either semi synthetic, full synthetic or mineral, using the same for the "flush"?

I know you admit you over-do it... but man you over do it!

If you ask the Oil company theyll say you should'nt officaly because they want you to buy there oil, All oil has to meet an API standard Cheaper dosent allways meen crap Its the API standard that dictates whats crap.
But if your Putting in an oil that is the same standard not a lesser one then there no problem
Like I said Just dont mix Weights oh yes that to dont mix semis and full Synthetics
Like I said I am anal with my servicing Because I can My parts are cheap and I do the right thing in recycling

infact i thaught the opposite was true
Mixing different grades weights of the same oil (5w30 with 10w40) is not harmful at all and results in an oil with a weight somewhere in the middle, the additives will be the same and no effect.

Mixing different brands results in unexpected results as different brands use very different additives such as detergents and suspension additives. These may or may not work with eachother and in extreme cases can possible prevent the additives from working all together.

If your mixing 100ml with 5l i doubt it is enough to make a difference when you buy a new car and change oil to that the PO was using, maybe your oild isnt as effective as it could be for the first couple oil changes, but if your doing it every 3000 to 5000k's, who knows that you doing to the oil?

Shadow wrote:infact i thaught the opposite was true
Mixing different grades weights of the same oil (5w30 with 10w40) is not harmful at all and results in an oil with a weight somewhere in the middle, the additives will be the same and no effect.

Mixing different brands results in unexpected results as different brands use very different additives such as detergents and suspension additives. These may or may not work with eachother and in extreme cases can possible prevent the additives from working all together.

If your mixing 100ml with 5l i doubt it is enough to make a difference when you buy a new car and change oil to that the PO was using, maybe your oild isnt as effective as it could be for the first couple oil changes, but if your doing it every 3000 to 5000k's, who knows that you doing to the oil?

Weights or grades are
say for 5w40 the 5w is how fast the oil goes through the engine
the 40 is at what temp it breaks down at or its thickness at opperating temp (depends which company you talk to)
If you mix grades they heat up and cool down at different temps ,Kinda like mud in water or salt water and fresh water Which can cause Slight hot and cold spots
As A general rule when diesal oil stains your fingers its losing its ability to transfer heat or has lost it.
Adding oil stabalisers well through alot of testing they actuall mix realy well with the oil your using but they will raise your grades ,So if you use a 10w40 and then add a oil stabaliser generaly itll become 15w50

Back in the Olden days Before the API (for Political reasons Austrailian Petrolium Industry) Standards were Around mixing brands wasent a good idea

beinthemud wrote:Back in the Olden days Before the API (for Political reasons Austrailian Petrolium Industry) Standards were Around mixing brands wasent a good idea

Just because a standard exists, and two oils comply to that standard, it does not mean that they both use the same means to achieve that standard.

Two oils can (and probably do) use completely different additives to achieve the same results. These additives dont necessarily mix with eachother to perform the same function they would seperately.

Multigrade oil is achieved through the use of viscosity index modifiers and anti-oxidants to achieve the two grades for hot and cold. The same brand of oil, but different weight, will use the same formula with a different amount of viscosity index modifiers to achieve the rating. All other additives will be unaffected as they will be the same, and more than likely in the same concentrations.

A 10w40 oil will have more viscosity index modifiers than a 5w30 oil. mix the oils 50/50 and the viscosity index modifiers will re-distribute through the oil and evenly formulate a different grade oil.

Different viscosities of the same brand oil will have different amounts of viscosity index improvers (polymers), but otherwise the additive systems will be the same.

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Rea ... ating-oils

Wow thats stupid Ill back out Now .If someone Decideds to use Machinery oil in their 100series I guess theyll talk to you
Or if they want to use their diff oil in the engine or Auto Trans
Ill just listen to Mobil, shell

From the Mobil site.

Question:
Is There Any Harm to Mixing Different Mobil 1 Viscosities?
I drive a '97 BMW 540i (85K.) on 0W-40, and a 2005 Subaru 2.5L (25K.) on 5W-30. I have used Mobil 1 for at least 10+ years now. I do keep drain intervals right at 5,000 miles on all of my cars, as it is easy to remember on the tach! Here are my questions: Is there any harm done if I were to mix and match between different viscosities within Mobil 1 products? I would prefer some thicker oil in our hot/dry summer months for both cars so can I simply mix in some 15W-50 with the base oils that I normally use, or is there really no need for that in modern engines? I just shiver at the thought of the relatively thin 5-10W-30/0W-40 oils all year round, especially when it hits 100°F+ around here, which can create tremendous thermal loads on any engine!
-- Konrad Werner, Albuquerque, NM

Answer:
Today’s modern vehicles require a less viscous oil in many cases than in the old days. Having said that there is no harm in mixing different viscosities of Mobil 1. They are all compatible with each other. However, we think the 40 grade protection you get from the 0W-40 is more than adequate to protect your BMW even in New Mexico as is the 30 grade protection provided to your Subaru.





Question:
Will Mixing Synthetic with Conventional Oil Cause a Gel to Form?
I mixed Mobil 1 with regular motor oil. My mechanic told me I should not do this because it forms a gel; is this true? I did it on 3 Honda Accords - a 2003 with 40,000 miles, a 1990 with 201,000 miles and a 1992 with 190,000 miles.
-- Jordan Mayer, Cape Coral, FL

Answer:
In general, oils should be compatible with each other. It is not likely that you would form gel by mixing the two oils. However, we would not recommend mixing oils as a general practice because oils are complex mixtures of additives and base oils that can be destabilized. Lastly, why reduce the outstanding performance of Mobil 1 by adding “regular oil”. Is it economics? You would be better to run all Mobil 1 and run it longer than mixing it with “regular oil”.


Summary, From MOBIL SITE, Mixing weights of same oil no problem.

Mixing different brands of oil not recomended.

Anything else to add?

Yup make sure you Read it properly

Can you post a source of your information from Mobil or Shell that refutes this?

Nah mate its all yours
It dosent matter what I post or who I quote , so like I said Ill back out and leave you to it

yenots wrote:Trying to save a bit of coin & want to start servicing my 100series myself. I've always had the car regularly serviced at a mechanic & thought nothing more so i'm not familiar on what they do.

If people could suggest some things i should do/check that would be great. I check my oil/coolant/water etc levels regularly but i need to know things like how to change oil, oil filter & more.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, taa

Wow i hope they helped you out

Get a mate and a few beers and go for it, have you got a workshop manual for it?

beinthemud wrote:Yup make sure you Read it properly

I read it properly, twice. It contradicts just about everything you have said. What do you do for a living?