Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Finished fitting 12inch coil overs to the rear of my nissan patrol. Everything works great. Except the 35inch very worn tyres are rubbing on full flex to the extent that they will stall the engine. The guards have already been chopped and the tyres are not rubbing there. They are only rubbing on the inner sections of the guard. The options are
Body lift I really not want to do this as I have just removed one and they offer very little advantages.
Extend the bump stops, Bit of a band aid fix this one, seems stupid to spend all this money and time fitting coil overs just to limit the travel.
Cut out all the inner guards and make some tubs to fill in the holes that allow the suspension to work to the max with out the tyres rubbing. Probally the best option, lot of work though.
Or turn it into a ute, Problem solved lots of work however.
Smaller tyres would also stop the rubbing, I do not wish to fit smaller tyres so this is a no go to.
Any body got any other ideas of how I can solve this rubbing problem ?
I thinking extend the bump stops for now then tub the rear later. Unless someone else has a better idea.

maybe different offset rims or spacers to push the tyres out some more then cut more out of the top of the gaurd. I have the same problem the innner is very shiny atm but ima cut into ute one day.

Won't extending the bumpstops effectively make the other side of the axle droop more, acting like a pivot point?

Like your thinking Big Lux. This would stop the problem of it rubbing on the side of the tyre but not the top. Will have a play with this idea see what I come up with.

didnt you cut the floor to fit the coilovers?

Just cut the whole guard out and build a new floor

nabstud wrote:Won't extending the bumpstops effectively make the other side of the axle droop more, acting like a pivot point?

Yeah sort of, this is how it works, but you won't get "more" droop from the extending side, just "less" tuck on the compression side.

Like the use of the term 'just' cut out the floor and make a new one. Cutting out the inner guards and build some new ones is looking like the best option. There is a fair bit of work to do this and also some cutting out and redoing of parts allready done. So i'm seeing if anyone has any simpler ideas before the date with Mr grinder.

Yeah, "tubbing" the rear is a good option ( and not that hard), but are'nt you having similar issues in the front. You said that the rear tyres are rubbing on the side and the top of the arch, which suggests to me that the front tyres will rub on the top of the arch too??

I don't blame you for not wanting to extend your bumpstops, coz suspension geometry is so positive during compression, and that's why your best option is to do a body lift or tub the arch's.
No amount of gaurd trimming or wheel spacing is gonna help.

Make's you wondor how all these clowns claim to run 37's with just a suspension lift and a gaurd trim hey

call em wat u want but the "clowns" still manage to do it. i hadto trim gard wit 3in sprint n 2in body for 37's also had to extend the bump stops to limit the about on rub on the back arcks. on 15x10 -44 ofset they still rummed but not enough to stop a tyre and still droped a 37 out the botom on full droop. depends on how much time effot n money u want to put in to fix your problem

Mate the "clowns don't manage to do it,, they are just fooling themselves and misleading everyone who reads theses threads and think that the info given is fact when it aint.

The fact is that 35's will will have clearance issues on a GQ unless you do a bodylift or extend bumpstops,,, or tub the arch's.

You will have to lower you bump stops a long way to stop rubbing, when I did my 4inch lift I lowered my rear bump stops by 75mm, this did nothing as at full flex the coils bind first and the bump stops is about 1mm from the base plate.
I think you might need 100mm or more to stop tyre rubbing.

Not having problems with the front as at this stage its still standard. Will see what happens when the coil overs go in the front though. Especially with the design of arms going in the front.
Sim 79 those bump stops look huge. With coil overs the springs are not binding. I really want to avoid extending the bump stops. It a compramise, after coming as far as I have seems a shame to compramise things at the last hurdle. A 100mm bump stop is a third of my travel.
Soon as i get a chance will make some drawing and work out how much bigger these tubs will be. Whilst i'm clearancing 35's wonder how much work 37's would take ?? Inch all round logic would say.

Thanks for everyones input, looks like the grinder is the way out of this problem.

Knock up some quick bumpstops and see what happens, i had to use some on mine to adjust the pivot point to stop scrubbing. Didnt seem to affect the up travel.

steel wrote:The fact is that 35's will will have clearance issues on a GQ unless you do a bodylift or extend bumpstops,,, or tub the arch's.

I beg to differ. I don't have any clearance issues on my GQ, aside from a plastic flare mount on the front edge of the rear guards (which still hasn't broken or rubbed through yet).

AFeral wrote:Not having problems with the front as at this stage its still standard. Will see what happens when the coil overs go in the front though. Especially with the design of arms going in the front.
Sim 79 those bump stops look huge. With coil overs the springs are not binding. I really want to avoid extending the bump stops. It a compramise, after coming as far as I have seems a shame to compramise things at the last hurdle. A 100mm bump stop is a third of my travel.
Soon as i get a chance will make some drawing and work out how much bigger these tubs will be. Whilst i'm clearancing 35's wonder how much work 37's would take ?? Inch all round logic would say.

Thanks for everyones input, looks like the grinder is the way out of this problem.

Chuck a block of 4x2 on top of the bumpstop, cable tie it in place and see what happens.

AFeral wrote: I really want to avoid extending the bump stops. It a compramise, after coming as far as I have seems a shame to compramise things at the last hurdle. A 100mm bump stop is a third of my travel.

Not having a go mate,,,,but, ideally you should of worked out your bumpstop placement first and set your coilovers up around them.

coxy321 wrote:

steel wrote:The fact is that 35's will will have clearance issues on a GQ unless you do a bodylift or extend bumpstops,,, or tub the arch's.

I beg to differ. I don't have any clearance issues on my GQ, aside from a plastic flare mount on the front edge of the rear guards (which still hasn't broken or rubbed through yet).

Yeah, well it's all relative i spose. some 35's measure closer to 33.

37's fitted on my GU coilcab, with 50mm suspension lift and radius arm spacers, no worries while wheeling slow technical tracks, but driving enthusiastically or even hitting a washout a bit too quickly would cause carnage

steel wrote:

coxy321 wrote:

steel wrote:The fact is that 35's will will have clearance issues on a GQ unless you do a bodylift or extend bumpstops,,, or tub the arch's.

I beg to differ. I don't have any clearance issues on my GQ, aside from a plastic flare mount on the front edge of the rear guards (which still hasn't broken or rubbed through yet).

Yeah, well it's all relative i spose. some 35's measure closer to 33.

37's fitted on my GU coilcab, with 50mm suspension lift and radius arm spacers, no worries while wheeling slow technical tracks, but driving enthusiastically or even hitting a washout a bit too quickly would cause carnage

My 35's are pretty close to 35" (Simex ET2), although i tend to take obstacles with caution and a lot less speed.

Yeah, Simex are pretty true in their sizing. A mate had 35/11.5/15 centipedes, and they measured a bit over 35.

steel wrote:

AFeral wrote: I really want to avoid extending the bump stops. It a compramise, after coming as far as I have seems a shame to compramise things at the last hurdle. A 100mm bump stop is a third of my travel.

Not having a go mate,,,,but, ideally you should of worked out your bumpstop placement first and set your coilovers up around them.

No offence taken mate. When I orginally set things up I still had the body lift in. Everything seemed ok. I worked the set up around the standard patrol bump stops. As I wanted maximum suspension movement and max up travel possible, this i have done. Now I just have get the tyres to clear the body and i'm done.

I've got 37 boggers had to cut the front guards a fair bit and cut a bit of the rear. I don't get any rubbing in the rear and the wheel seems to tuck very high. Yet my 32's rub inside the wheel arch just above the chassie. Must be a offset things. Its got me fooled.

Have you tried a different offset rim?

I wanna see some pics this would look sweet!

Cheers, Shane

AFeral wrote:

steel wrote:

AFeral wrote: I really want to avoid extending the bump stops. It a compramise, after coming as far as I have seems a shame to compramise things at the last hurdle. A 100mm bump stop is a third of my travel.

Not having a go mate,,,,but, ideally you should of worked out your bumpstop placement first and set your coilovers up around them.

No offence taken mate. When I orginally set things up I still had the body lift in. Everything seemed ok. I worked the set up around the standard patrol bump stops. As I wanted maximum suspension movement and max up travel possible, this i have done. Now I just have get the tyres to clear the body and i'm done.

Haha,, sounds like you shoulda left ya bodylift in hey

Yom wrote:

AFeral wrote:Not having problems with the front as at this stage its still standard. Will see what happens when the coil overs go in the front though. Especially with the design of arms going in the front.
Sim 79 those bump stops look huge. With coil overs the springs are not binding. I really want to avoid extending the bump stops. It a compramise, after coming as far as I have seems a shame to compramise things at the last hurdle. A 100mm bump stop is a third of my travel.
Soon as i get a chance will make some drawing and work out how much bigger these tubs will be. Whilst i'm clearancing 35's wonder how much work 37's would take ?? Inch all round logic would say.

Thanks for everyones input, looks like the grinder is the way out of this problem.

Chuck a block of 4x2 on top of the bumpstop, cable tie it in place and see what happens.

This would be ok for testing in a controled environment. Welding RHS to the bump plate though is bad unless a rediculously think wall is used or thw RHS will flatten and cave in.

steel wrote:Yeah, Simex are pretty true in their sizing. A mate had 35/11.5/15 centipedes, and they measured a bit over 35.

Narrow tyrues have much less clearance issues too. If you draw the arc of a 12.5+ tyre on its axis around the diff movment it will need more then 1/2" per side more clearance measure vertically and horizontally.

nastytroll wrote:

steel wrote:Yeah, Simex are pretty true in their sizing. A mate had 35/11.5/15 centipedes, and they measured a bit over 35.

Narrow tyrues have much less clearance issues too. If you draw the arc of a 12.5+ tyre on its axis around the diff movment it will need more then 1/2" per side more clearance measure vertically and horizontally.

Yep,, just another reason why narrow tyres are better

steel wrote: Yep,, just another reason why narrow tyres are better

LOL yeh if you dont intend to do much hardcore 4wding...

Z()LTAN wrote:

steel wrote: Yep,, just another reason why narrow tyres are better

LOL yeh if you dont intend to do much hardcore 4wding...

X2

Easiest way is measure the space you need, cut out the floor and fenders to suit, have some 1.6mm folded sheet made to your templates, weld them back in, using common sense as to size/position, sikaflex seam seal all the joins to keep moisture out, and paint inner fenders with stone shield and inside car to match color, cut plastic trims, and carpet to suit, easy weekend job.

We normally run 50mm bump spacers on the rear to fix tyre size issues and save cutting, and work our droop from there, so wheel travel is worked from the new bump location to max, rather than lose 2" up travel, when installing the shocks.

On a wagon, a folded box with no bottom like a shoe box, with push over lid and rubber seal which uses 1/4 turn fasteners seals up the coil overs into the back normally, with lid off to access.

Shortening the drawers of rear storage set up can help "hide" the boxed section.

Z()LTAN wrote:

steel wrote: Yep,, just another reason why narrow tyres are better

LOL yeh if you dont intend to do much hardcore 4wding...

C'mon,, narrow tyres excell in every terrain except rock.

Let's hook up for a wheel and we'll see what's better,,, don't worry about the dust

steel wrote:

Z()LTAN wrote:

steel wrote: Yep,, just another reason why narrow tyres are better

LOL yeh if you dont intend to do much hardcore 4wding...

C'mon,, narrow tyres excell in every terrain except rock.

Let's hook up for a wheel and we'll see what's better,,, don't worry about the dust

x2. yet to see a *huge* benefit in massively wide tyres anywhere. always seems to come down more to the tyre itself and pressures than how stuppidy wide it is.