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winch power cables - soldered lugs OK?
Posted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 12:14 pm
by CT
I'm replacing the power leads on my winch so that I can get the solenoid box mounted under the bonnet. Is it ok to solder the lugs on to the cables or should they be crimped?
Never done wiring for this much current before so open to any suggestions.
Cheers
Craig
Posted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 12:22 pm
by BASSYK
i think crimping is better as it can withstand higher heat
solder can melt with the high current
some people chose to solder the ends of the cables before they crimp them too
Posted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 12:26 pm
by ledgend80
i would crimp them as well i bought a swet of crimers the other day about 250 for them so if you were likely to use them to do a few crimps it is not that dear
Posted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 1:25 pm
by billyj
if the cable gets hot enough to melt the solder you have bigger problems to worry about
Posted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 1:27 pm
by -Scott-
With the proper tools, crimp alone is adequate.
If you insist on doing both, crimp first, then solder.
billyj wrote:if the cable gets hot enough to melt the solder you have bigger problems to worry about
Correct. Lead alloy solder melts (from memory) around 260 degrees C. PVC is rated to 75 degrees, XLPE 90 degrees, there's some reasonably common stuff rated to 110 degrees, and even hi-temp silicon insulation tops out around 200 degrees.
Melting the solder is the least of your problems. You're also likely to start a fire when the insulation fails and you short your battery somewhere.
Posted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 4:15 pm
by 80's_delirious
I would use crimped ends. Solder needs flux (either flux cored or seperate flux) the flux can cause the copper wire to corrode
Posted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 5:10 pm
by cooki_monsta
the flux is burnt off in the solder process, and yes if your melting solder then there is bigger problems then your join, soldered lugs will work fine as an alternative to crimping, how ever as said id crimp then solder. but it will work fine
Posted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 6:35 pm
by Thylacine
Solder alone is inappropriate in such a vibration-prone environment.
Crimping is more than sufficient (further soldering has it's pro's and con's) if correctly done.
One often overlooked point is the mechanical fixing of the cable to the assembly that the crimp-lug will attach to to reduce vibration at the critical joint.
ed
Posted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 6:48 pm
by phat-customs
We crimp our lugs at work on anything from 25mm2 cable (8awg) right up to 120mm2 cable. but we also heat shring using a very thick heatshrink with a glue inside it that bonds to the lug and the cable.
Posted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 9:14 pm
by Goatse.AJ
Main thing with solder is brittleness of the joint. Crimp, then solder.
Posted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 9:36 pm
by oz4wd
It is very important you never solder then crimp. with the solder under pressure from the crimp you will get what is called "cold flow" over time the solder will move and weaken the joint. in extreme conditions the cable and lug will separate.
Posted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 11:24 pm
by krusty182
As Thylacine has said, crimping the electrical connection and using a clamp of some sort, such as a saddle, cable tie, etc. to control the mechanical movement on the joint is the best way to go.
Solder removes any flexibility in that part of the cable and actually makes it more likely to break strands of the cable core
Posted: Sun Feb 07, 2010 8:11 am
by CT
Thanks everyone.
With no crimping gear l"ll see whats available off the shelf or talk to my local auto elec.
Cheers
Craig
Posted: Sun Feb 07, 2010 9:39 am
by 6.5 rangie
just get it all ready and ring you local sparky, they'll have crimpers i'm sure you could use. you can hire them from an electical wholesalers to, they have mechanical and hydraulic crimpers. your auto elec should have them aswell