Page 1 of 1

Fitted Kill Switch now TB42E won't idle

Posted: Sun Feb 14, 2010 5:51 pm
by wilsy
Just spent the afternoon wiring in a manual isolator now after playing around with the wiring loom it won't idle.

All i cut out of the original loom was the altenator charge line, i attached this directly to the battery, everything else is how it was before, though now attached to a Insulated post then into the cab, through isolator and then reconnected to the battery, just tidied up the remaing eleventy billion wires in the loom and re wrapped in conduit and tape.

Vehicle starts well as before, but idle hunts from about 1400 - 2000rpm, blip the throttle and the revs will hang for a while before dropping then once again hunting between 1400 and 2000. With the Auto in Drive, revs hold steady at 900rpm.

Any help on where to look would be gratly appreciated
Thanks
Simon

Posted: Sun Feb 14, 2010 9:03 pm
by ludacris
Best thing if isolating batteries is to isolate the earth. Also try not to bypass the isolation switch with anything as you could end up trying to draw power through the tiny bypass wire.

Cris

Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 10:08 am
by wilsy
Looked at Switching the earth, but 4 batteries at 4 different spots on the car, means 4 earths that require isolating (so i thought), it was just going to be easier to switch the positive.

The manual isolator was easy enough to wire in i just don't know where to look to try and find a broken wire or loose plug in the harness which would be causing my hunting at idle. as have never played with an injected motor before.

Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 1:06 pm
by macneil
why do u want to isolate the charge wire?? and some times altanators have a charge wire that needs to run to something like a light to load them up ( makes them regulate) dont see why thaqt would stop it from idling though... you didnt squash another wire i nick one did you??

Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 1:18 pm
by wilsy
Macneil i didn't isolate the charge wire i just had to seperate it from the wiring loom and have it connected directly to the battery so the vehicle would stop once the isolator is activated.
The issue isn't the operation of the killswitch, but the idleing issue i've created. Thats why i'm thinking like you are that maybe i've crushed/broken a wire or left a plug loose or something. As i'm a EFI newby i just have no idea where to look for the problem, short of putting the ute on a car tailer and taking it to an auto lecy.

Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 2:28 pm
by ludacris
Is it a good kill switch as sometimes you can lose voltage/amps through some of the cheaper or dodgy ones which will play havoc to how the motor runs. Can you remove the kill switch easily enough to diagnose if that could be the problem.

Cris

Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 4:17 pm
by wilsy
Yep that was the first thing i did Cris, the problem was still there when everything was reconnected to the battery!

Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 4:22 pm
by ludacris
wilsy wrote:Yep that was the first thing i did Cris, the problem was still there when everything was reconnected to the battery!
Bugger.

Cris

Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 4:29 pm
by wilsy
Any idea where i should start looking for an open circuit(broken wire)?? or just untape the loom and start belling out wires?