Outer Limits 4x4 Board

can anyone please explain the Xlink suspension set up ive been hearing about?? i got a 80 series that id like to get better flex out of, but ive heard mixed opinions on this set up.

1. does this make the on road hanlding worse or better?

2. is the system pinnable so that it acts like a normal front control arm when not in use.

3. how difficult is the set up for fixing it to the axle housing??

cheers.

grab second and have a real go.

bigredbarn wrote:can anyone please explain the Xlink suspension set up ive been hearing about?? i got a 80 series that id like to get better flex out of, but ive heard mixed opinions on this set up.

1. does this make the on road hanlding worse or better?

2. is the system pinnable so that it acts like a normal front control arm when not in use.

3. how difficult is the set up for fixing it to the axle housing??

4. has this been covered in about 30 other threads already because i havn't searched.

cheers.

grab second and have a real go.

yes it changes the handling - Depends on the individual vehicle, how you drive it, and legality varies from state to state
yes - I believe you have to ask for it though
not particularly if you have half decent fab skills. otherwise leave it alone.
yes - it's been covered here http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/search.php

this is the x link. it works very well

i would dare say the xlink is more suited to off road aplications and works well there , on road you need locking pins that will wear and you will get slop and play in the pins after a while , fitting a very heavy duty swaybar is another option for on road but can be a pita connecting and dissconnecting and possibly getting hung up on

cheers for the pics. gives a great view on the offroad benefits of this system. this is more or less what i want it for not so much for the on road stuff.

does anyone know a supplier of these? or a company that fit them around the central qld area??

bigredbarn wrote:cheers for the pics. gives a great view on the offroad benefits of this system. this is more or less what i want it for not so much for the on road stuff.

does anyone know a supplier of these? or a company that fit them around the central qld area??

A (really) cheap alternative is take out your passenger front radius arm bolt. works like an x link



Put it back in on the road tho, you will soon realise how much body roll you have.

BadMav wrote:A (really) cheap alternative is take out your passenger front radius arm bolt.

Put it back in on the road tho, you will soon realise how much body roll you have.

I can vouch for that. I lost one of the radius arm bolts from the rear of my Paj. I pulled into traffic from a servo, and when I hit the throttle it picked up the passenger's front wheel dramatically.

Scared the crap out of me, actually.

heres my homebuilt link, will give u some idea wat u can get outta a Xlink.

I ran mine with a flip arm and highsteer also.







You can see in this pic its droppin a 7" coil outta its hat by over 100mm




I also built a pin set up for it.. worked awesome.. was very easy to pin / unpin







I ran this set up for bout 3 years, loved it, yes it was VERY leany on rd without the pins, but in the bush it was awesome..

they set up doesnt have much roll stiffness, which can be a tad scary but u could combat that by building some currie swaybars for it, or ya jsut learn to live with it like i did..

yer i agree with cranky, on road its scary as fuck first but im use to it now , hey cranky why did you run the high steer setup ? was your draglink tie rod end binding out ?

with the centre mount what are people using as a bush

pinkfloyddsotm wrote:yer i agree with cranky, on road its scary as . first but im use to it now , hey cranky why did you run the high steer setup ? was your draglink tie rod end binding out ?

I used to always bust the studs off the passenger side steering arm and twist the sector shaft in the steering box, Doing a high steer stopped all those problems...

Not much fun when the steering arm drops off the knuckle

But if i hadnt of had the high steer when i built my like im very sure it would of binded the arm.

bigredbarn wrote:
does anyone know a supplier of these? or a company that fit them around the central qld area??

Dobbin engineering, Glenn. They are around $800, $100 for the locking pin.

I can fit them but im a little while away from you, sunshine coast.

cheers mark.

11_evl wrote:this is the x link. it works very well

Is the paint comming off the arem there near the central pivot .. and what appears to be a bend (that is supposed to be there) dueo to the X link arm flexing after it was painted ?

Xlink is bent to get around the diff pumpkin...... they are plated with unpolished chrome when new....most paint them black so as not to attract attention

Harb wrote:Xlink is bent to get around the diff pumpkin...... they are plated with unpolished chrome when new....most paint them black so as not to attract attention

So that would appear to confirm the arm is flexing there and cracking the chrome ? ( pls correct me if I am off the mark)

love_mud wrote:

Harb wrote:Xlink is bent to get around the diff pumpkin...... they are plated with unpolished chrome when new....most paint them black so as not to attract attention

So that would appear to confirm the arm is flexing there and cracking the chrome ? ( pls correct me if I am off the mark)

Dude that's the black paint flaking off the chrome

The only bad comments you will hear about the Xlinks is from car owners that have not developed their car enough. The xlink alone won’t work with all bases covered. The car needs to be properly setup by someone that understands what to do. There is alot more to do than just fitting an xlink!
Having the car setup correctly is a must when fitting an x link.
my advice is that when you fit an xlink
*be realistic about what you and your car can do!
*keep the car as low as you can and don’t worry about your sills and cut your guards for clearance. My opinion is that anything more than 4” lift is over kill.
*keep your weight down as much as possible. If you don’t need it in the car don’t carry it.
*depending on what you do with your car run a set of sway bars as you are most likely not doing comps every day and having too much flex on a car running the kids to school causes bad press for the xlink
*get a good set of spring that are suited to the bias weight of the car (you want the diff to react exactly the same both front and back) if the car is 1500kg on the front and 500kg on the rear the spring rates should match accordingly
*every thing you learnt about the spring sets under the last ten cars you have owned forget it! It all changes due to the last note when an x link is fitted
*get it fitted by a good welder, a trained welder that understands what the xlink is about. Someone you can trust your 2 tonne of moving mass with.

I Was part of the development of the first prototype crosslink now named the xlink and although I am no longer involved in the dealing of the xlink I feel that it should be said that it is a good product it just needs more attention than just the fitting.
With several trucks that I have fitted the xlink and setup beyond just fitting the link in the past several years, not one has had problems with handling.
My truck is still performing well, seeing lots of comps and lots of wicked trails and there is no sign of any cracks splits or issues at all. As I have said it’s all in the setup
My opinion only and I’m sooooo over xlink debates!!!!!!.......

Chad

Professor, what is your opinion on the X-Link making pretzels out of the control arms?

I have personally seen how much stock (and aftermarket) arms bend with the X-Link fitted.
If you look at how the X-Link works it is obvious why it bends the arms aswell.

Luke.

i had one on my GQ loved it off road hated the dammn thing like hell when i wanted to drive home...
so u gotta work out what u want to do with it...
even after i fitted a locking pin was still shite on road ( and yes i put it on proply in the first place )

just my 2c
cheers

lukethedork wrote:Professor, what is your opinion on the X-Link making pretzels out of the control arms?

I have personally seen how much stock (and aftermarket) arms bend with the X-Link fitted.
If you look at how the X-Link works it is obvious why it bends the arms aswell.

Luke.

That will happen on big lifts with cars that are not setup correctly.

mine bow but only when i have the hydraulics pumped out

its hard to do it all


Chad

love_mud wrote:

11_evl wrote:this is the x link. it works very well

Is the paint comming off the arem there near the central pivot .. and what appears to be a bend (that is supposed to be there) dueo to the X link arm flexing after it was painted ?

the patrol in the pic is my purplebus... I ran this x-link for ages with a set of 3rd production arm. they were all painted black as to look a bit more standard(look at the pic again and you can see the arm on the drivers side).the black would peel off as i never prepped it properly as i am lazy.the 3rd arms would rotate so no bending of the arms.
it also was used as a battering ram and we raced the cityview trials, superior all terrains and did 100s of glasshouse/cruiser park trips. I enjoyed it and only changed because i bent the diff beyond repair and replaced with a 5link and a gu diff. always trying something different. still have the xlink and 3rd arms and will be fitting them to a mwb patrol for my dad shortly.
the only thing stopping it flex more was the shock length. at full flex it only closed the gap between arms and diff to half way.

Thanks for the clarification ..