Outer Limits 4x4 Board

hi all

So i've got the beadlock australia secondairs inside my kreepies. they are total, TOTAL, TOTAL rubbish. After replacing my last set of tubes at the princely sum of 50 bucks EACH from them, i AGAIN have 2 that won't hold air (i suspect due to pinholes) and the pressure going in to the beadlock valve goes straight to the main cavity. I can tell you i WON'T be replacing them with another 100 bucks worth of tubes.

Can anyone tell me if there are any other tubes out there that can do the job?

Does anyone have a picture of the staun tube valves so i can compare? surely they're pretty similar since it's just a standard diameter tube coming out the hole and a thicker section of tube around the valve stem?

slip down to your local Tyree shop and purchase some h/duty tubes of the correct size and have them cut off the standard stem off. Have them then fitted an appropriate stick on stem to suit your rims. You may have to drill out the hole in the rim to a larger size. I have done this with success and should save you about $20 per tube.

the gun wrote:slip down to your local Tyree shop and purchase some h/duty tubes of the correct size and have them cut off the standard stem off. Have them then fitted an appropriate stick on stem to suit your rims. You may have to drill out the hole in the rim to a larger size. I have done this with success and should save you about $20 per tube.

Thanks heaps mate

I agree nothing more frustrating.

The tubes tend to pinch or crease causing a weak point and also if not fitted right they can poke out the side of the beadlock bead a bit and when inflated that bit blows right up like a hernia and then ruptures. In all these cases even the toughest tube will struggle. Oh and make sure there is plenty of talcum powder tossed in there when you fit them as this can help unfold any creases. But yes, visit your local truck tyre shop and look for the heaviest tube you can get that would suit a car or small van (say 205r16 size) and they might also be able to get you a few valve stems that can be vulcanised (normal tube repair cement) onto these new tubes. Or try googling "Industrial Tyre Supplies" for the valve stems if needed.

Hobzee wrote:I agree nothing more frustrating.

The tubes tend to pinch or crease causing a weak point and also if not fitted right they can poke out the side of the beadlock bead a bit and when inflated that bit blows right up like a hernia and then ruptures. In all these cases even the toughest tube will struggle. Oh and make sure there is plenty of talcum powder tossed in there when you fit them as this can help unfold any creases. But yes, visit your local truck tyre shop and look for the heaviest tube you can get that would suit a car or small van (say 205r16 size) and they might also be able to get you a few valve stems that can be vulcanised (normal tube repair cement) onto these new tubes. Or try googling "Industrial Tyre Supplies" for the valve stems if needed.

Thanks champ. I was pretty carefull when i fitted them but 4 or 5 instances of it is getting a bit old. Thanks for the tip.

I would have thought that the stems would already be on there wouldn't they???

rockcrawler31 wrote:
I would have thought that the stems would already be on there wouldn't they???

The thing is the tube stem must be air tight as the tyre air will escape around the outside of the tube stem otherwise. So you need a stem that can be squashed into place with o-rings and a locking nut. Typically tractors have these. Can be any width - if wider than current then just drill the hole wider. You're not likely to get this sort of ready made tube this size in any shop.

Also try Chris Hummer at Dynamic 4x4 (melb) - the Simex tubes are the heaviest and toughest I know of. In fact beadlock used to use a Simex tube in the old days but I dont know where it ended up.

But dont give up hope. I still run the second airs after all these years. OK yes I do 1 tube a year on average due to pinches and creases and I do strip and refit (using the old tubes) annually before winter too.

Ahhh. it all makes sense.

I really thought these would be a fit and forget affair, but if it's considered normal to have to do repairs or regular maintenance i guess them's the breaks. Still better than farking round with externals on one side only i guess.

rockcrawler31 wrote:Ahhh. it all makes sense.

I really thought these would be a fit and forget affair, but if it's considered normal to have to do repairs or regular maintenance i guess them's the breaks. Still better than farking round with externals on one side only i guess.

Ah yes - the externals have their own headaches like not holding air or studs breaking. The expensive alloys seem to be OK at $800 ea but that's a lot of lolly and hey, at '09 Cliffhanger there were about 10 broken Walker Evans rims going to alcoa for recycling. That's like $8000 down the drain at one comp in one wheel alone.

the gun wrote:slip down to your local Tyree shop and purchase some h/duty tubes of the correct size and have them cut off the standard stem off. Have them then fitted an appropriate stick on stem to suit your rims. You may have to drill out the hole in the rim to a larger size. I have done this with success and should save you about $20 per tube.

Seems like a big root around when you can go to a MOTORCYCLE shop and buy 175-15" tubes for Harleys etc for $15 that already have a threaded valve stem.

I've been using them for a few years and yet to have a tube puncture. The key is regualr maintenance and the biggie is making sure you keep the beads clean. The cheats way is to let the mud dry then carefully break the bead and scrap it out. If you do it rigth you don't need to strip the tyre at all.
There was also a changein design with the valve that fills the tyre. Originally it was attached but now it is a seperate piece. I have modified some of mine to the new system as it put less stress on tube where it molds around it. With the old system you end up with a couple bulges where the second valve is but the new style doesn't 'seem' to cause this.