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Anyone done sill chop on gq

Posted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 9:23 pm
by morewheeldrive
Hey all just wondering if anyone has done a sill chop on a gq. Not 1/4 chop. I mean flatten sills out make it easier to fab up sliders and keep clearence. Just wondering what sort of techniques used to keep the strength in the sill after chopping. Any help would be wicked.

Posted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 9:30 pm
by crazy eyes
have just done it to a mates car and was easy to do and from wat i can see there was no loss of strength . we used 3mm plate and wlded it all the way around. we cut about 50mm off the sill .we copyed cbt racings car and figured that it was no problem as he is a panel beater and if it was a bad idea he wouldnt of done it.

Re

Posted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 9:46 pm
by morewheeldrive
crazy eyes wrote:have just done it to a mates car and was easy to do and from wat i can see there was no loss of strength . we used 3mm plate and wlded it all the way around. we cut about 50mm off the sill .we copyed cbt racings car and figured that it was no problem as he is a panel beater and if it was a bad idea he wouldnt of done it.
sweeet that's all the convincing I need. Choppy choppy tiiime.!

Posted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 9:57 pm
by beast of a GQ
If u don't mind mate. Get you get pics as you go. Very interested to see how you do it. I've got stuffed sills but not to the extent were it cant be chopped.

Does this give you 2" more body clearance. (Only on the sills).

Re

Posted: Wed Feb 24, 2010 8:43 am
by morewheeldrive
beast of a GQ wrote:If u don't mind mate. Get you get pics as you go. Very interested to see how you do it. I've got stuffed sills but not to the extent were it cant be chopped.

Does this give you 2" more body clearance. (Only on the sills).
yeah man fa sure. I'll have to learn how to post pics up properly first but soon as I do it all I'll post em up. Yeah gives about 2 inch roughly. Plus it means if u put sliders on u don't loose anymore clearence and it
makes fitting them really easy.

Posted: Wed Feb 24, 2010 10:34 am
by crazy eyes
yeh yeh it means you can run the sliders straight out of the top of the chasy well close to any way and you dont need a body lift then just cut and refold the gaurds and you can fit 35s without a drama it is cool to have be low but have heaps of clearence

Posted: Wed Feb 24, 2010 1:29 pm
by Dabbott
Verry interested in this,

Does any one have pics???? i pulling of my sils as we speak ( rust and Shite ) this maybe be a fix????

Posted: Wed Feb 24, 2010 3:27 pm
by SIM79
Pics :D
Nelso wrote:Cut the sills off today and made the plate to weld in. Gained about 50mm so the sliders will sit where the bottom of the sill should be. Will weld it up tomorrow.

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Nelso wrote:Sills welded up.

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The clearance I have gained. (Thanks Cheezy for showing us that this could be done)

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And the start of the new sliders.

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Have to finish the barwork and make new lower front shock mounts before I can wheel it :x and don't have much spare time in the next couple of weeks. :bad-words: Still trying to get it ready ASAP as I'm itching to see what it's like to drive without the unnecessary height.

Also bought some 6 inch wide Bunnings Flares today that will have to be fitted soon as the tyres are a little out of the guards. :roll:
More info here.
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic122241-0-asc-0.php

Posted: Wed Feb 24, 2010 4:40 pm
by Dabbott
Cheers for the pics!

Actually looks ok, stops dents and rust and damage.
Strength wise?? i suspose the floor will become a weak spot??? or has some one done this mod and its held up to the test of time!

Just concerned that a good wack on the sliders will cause a creased floorpan!

Cheers

Posted: Wed Feb 24, 2010 5:53 pm
by GutSquisher Media
If your worried about the floor now becoming the weak spot all you need to do is use 5 or 6mm plate steel to seal the gap. That is what I did to me old troll, the body on that old girl flexed more than the suspension :lol: it stiffened up the body and made it a good car to drive again no more creaks and groans.

To stop the wack on a rock bending it, well that's what sliders are for, do your self a favor if your going to do the chop do the sliders as well.

Posted: Wed Feb 24, 2010 6:09 pm
by Dabbott
To stop the wack on a rock bending it, well that's what sliders are for, do your self a favor if your going to do the chop do the sliders as well.
I thought that was a givin :roll:

:D Cheers

Posted: Thu Feb 25, 2010 12:05 am
by cookieGQ
thanks for the pics guys, my sills are rat shit both bent up so bad the doors are lucky to close this should fix the problem and sliders will fit neat to now

Posted: Thu Feb 25, 2010 5:03 pm
by crazy eyes
the guys at CBT tacing have had theres done for i think about 2years now and they flog that thing.

Posted: Fri Feb 26, 2010 5:06 pm
by badger
We used to do it on mq's using a peice of 80x30 ish 3mm wall box. I cant find any pics atm but it held up well and seemed to stiffen the cab up a bit. especially after cutting half the floors worth of rust out. I took some decent hits too bit id imagine it would tear the body mounts if it got hit Hard.

Posted: Fri Feb 26, 2010 10:10 pm
by Dabbott
As with anything i suppose, you hit it hard enough things will break!

Posted: Sun Feb 28, 2010 10:03 am
by mattsluxtruck
Good to see this. I now know how I will be fixing one of my rust issues.

Posted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 10:10 pm
by (EST)MahviaDeTyrk
I used there 2 30x60x3 boxes - won 1'' clierence and it's really strong - possible to lift with hi-lift etc.

Posted: Fri Apr 16, 2010 8:03 pm
by GQ_Rawr
anyone else done this? could they post photo's if they have? progress pics would be good.

Posted: Mon Apr 19, 2010 1:04 pm
by Nelso
Dabbott wrote:Cheers for the pics!

Actually looks ok, stops dents and rust and damage.
Strength wise?? i suspose the floor will become a weak spot??? or has some one done this mod and its held up to the test of time!

Just concerned that a good wack on the sliders will cause a creased floorpan!

Cheers
That was two and a half years ago and I haven't had any issues with it. I only used 2 or 2.5mm plate from memory too. You do need decent sliders to protect them though.

Posted: Tue Apr 20, 2010 4:08 pm
by bazzle
Weld the sloders to the orig sill points and the floor and achieve afew things.
Strong floor
Height gain
Sliders inc to body keeps legal as Eng dont like sills removed.

Bazzle

Posted: Tue Apr 27, 2010 12:16 pm
by GQ turbo
sim 79 thats a pretty good idea as i got a price on getting mine fixed, they said that they would have to replace the sills and order new ones and was gonna cost $1800.
I was the f*ck that they can stay like that for that price lol

This weekend

Posted: Thu Apr 29, 2010 9:11 am
by morewheeldrive
Ok so i'm gonna get stuck into it this weekend so with any luck I'll have some pics and info on it Sunday night or something.

Posted: Thu Apr 29, 2010 9:52 am
by Green as Grass
GQ_Rawr wrote:anyone else done this? could they post photo's if they have? progress pics would be good.
Hey Guys.
I want to get in and do this mod but a step by step would be good. For example. How to mark out the sills, what and how to cut the sills. What to watch out for. How to weld in the plate and refinish etc.
Any panel beaters out there ?

Posted: Thu Apr 29, 2010 6:08 pm
by morewheeldrive
Green as Grass wrote:
GQ_Rawr wrote:anyone else done this? could they post photo's if they have? progress pics would be good.
Hey Guys.
I want to get in and do this mod but a step by step would be good. For example. How to mark out the sills, what and how to cut the sills. What to watch out for. How to weld in the plate and refinish etc.
Any panel beaters out there ?
hey bloke. I'll be doing it this weekend so I'll make sure to take heaps of pics and post up a step by step.

Posted: Sat May 01, 2010 12:15 am
by dazgq1
hey mate when you finish drop in and see me so i can check it out im
real keen too i think you seen whats left of mine :oops:

Posted: Sat May 01, 2010 8:52 am
by Screwy
This is an interesting way to gain abit of clearance for sliders, my sills are pretty badly bent due to really shit side steps so im interested to see more results.

Screwy

Posted: Sat May 01, 2010 10:54 am
by Nelso
Green as Grass wrote:
GQ_Rawr wrote:anyone else done this? could they post photo's if they have? progress pics would be good.
Hey Guys.
I want to get in and do this mod but a step by step would be good. For example. How to mark out the sills, what and how to cut the sills. What to watch out for. How to weld in the plate and refinish etc.
Any panel beaters out there ?
Just mark and cut the outside panel and remove it. Then do the same for the inside bit. There is no bracing sandwiched between the panels but it is a pain in the arse to get the grinder into some places. I used a 9 inch as well as a 4 inch grinder. Once they are cut and cleaned up mark out your plate and cut it out to fit and weld it in.

Posted: Sat May 01, 2010 10:57 am
by Nelso
Screwy wrote:This is an interesting way to gain abit of clearance for sliders, my sills are pretty badly bent due to really shit side steps so im interested to see more results.

Screwy
When I took the bodylift out I did this and kept the sliders at the same height.

Posted: Sat May 01, 2010 12:48 pm
by morewheeldrive
dazgq1 wrote:hey mate when you finish drop in and see me so i can check it out im
real keen too i think you seen whats left of mine :oops:
yeah man for sure

Posted: Sun May 02, 2010 6:24 am
by Clarkie
Cutting old sill off is a pain,hard to get the inner one streight,every thing seams to get in the way,only have a 4" + 5" grinder.
I had a plate folded in a J shape which slip's over the outter edge and butts to the inner at 90 degres,that way your not trying to weld two thin edges togeather.I think I have a small bit left so can take a pic of cross section if anyones interested.I had to get a shop weld it up,I dont have a welder.all up cost me about $350($200 for the welding)took a few hrs getting ready though,Im a mechanic not a banel beater


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