Outer Limits 4x4 Board

haha well finally got the hilux on the road. went away on the weekend and i went through about 40 ltrs of fuel in the 100ks i traveled. i have it booked into the ecu specialist in a couple of weeks, couldnt get any earlyer as they are booked out. toyota and my local mechanic could not help as the diagnostic port does not work. its still running like crap when up to temp and obviously chewing craploads of fuel. does any one know what would cause this? its not leaking anywhere.
thanks for your input

Air flow meter and/or coolant temp sensor would be the first things I would look at if you reckon the wiring is right.

I know its a different vehicle but I had the same issue with my R32 Skyline, I changed the O2 Sensor and reset the ECU came up great.

Yeah I would have included oxygen sensor too with the symptoms but I'm pretty sure the 3RZ doesn't run one.

thanks guys. pretty sure wiring is right, will check temp sender. not to sure about the airflow meter as i have plumbed it into my original intake. it sits in the same location so i dobt this is it. talked to ecu guy today and he says it may just need remapping? has anyone had to do this?

Did you put the o2 sensor in?

Either way, id be looking at a fuel leak somewhere, there is no way it would drive IMO,

BULLLSHIIT, remapping, if its a stock ecu it doesn't need remapping if it does go buy another one, i have one ill sell you if it comes to that.

to burn 40litres in 100k's, it would have to be in WOT (wide open throttle) They are only 320cc injectors.

Are the sparkplugs black as? if they are not then you have a fuel leak.

these motors dont have one before 2004 i think. mines a 2002.
i havnt got the egr hooked up though? would this help?

i shalt go look at plugs now. ive checked for leaks and i put a fuel pressure gauge on it. its holding pressure. i just got it blue platted last week and the main thing he would of looked at (i assume) would be fuel system

No not to that extent, the ecu could be playing silly buggers because it is not seeing the solenoid feedback, although doubtful it would produce that economy

Im finding it hard to believe it has burnt that much unless you did a burnout for 100k's aha, unless injectors are stuck open, but then it wouldnt even run on those cylinders that are being soaked

hmm im trying to think witch side of the filter we put the fuel pressure gauge. pretty sure it was the injecter side witch would mean that they arnt leaking rite? and the new plugs i put in a week ago are black as haha the ceramic bit isnt thou. doesnt smell badly of fuel either?

can anyone clear something up for me. the temp sensor near the thermostat.... does this need to be hooked up as i heard that the temp sender that goes to computer is behind motor somewhere..? mine is currently unplugged as i have a bling after market gauge haha

Yer it should be spitting fuel out the back and be burning your eyes and smelling yukkk with those figures, start the car and get under it see if there is fuel leaking, where is the fuel pump, doesnt matter what side of the filter it is on, its all pressurised to the same pressure, pressure is controlled out the return side of the fuel rail.

There is several temp sensors, 1 or 2 in the thermostat, and one in the head at the back, one runs to instrument cluster, one runs ecu etc. Even if they were the problem i still dont think it would burn that much fuel, 0 resistance would read 0 degrees, fuel compensation is only around 20% or so, the cooler a motor is the more fuel it needs same goes for air temp, cooler air = more oxygen therefore needing more fuel to maintain a 14.5ish a/f.

What color are the tips of the plugs?

ill go start her up and see. with the fuel pump i have taken the original one out of rnz149 that the motor came from, cut out the mount and welded it into the original tank. where the original lines came out

holy shiit. i would hate to be following me down the street haha. put my head down near exaust and my eyes are still watering. the fuel is definatly going through the motor. and there is no leaks.
tips of the plus are clean

time to get the multimeter out and start checking the resistance on sensors and injectors.

dont know how resistance the injectors should have off hand do ya?
and should i have a cat converter?

sorry to talk shit but here are some fule rates i know..
MY SLR5000 Torana 308... 300ishkm vs 110ltstank= 1.4 tonne@ 400+hp @ 2 wheels
Mates GU 4.8 pet turbo.. 300ishkm vs 200lts= 2tonne @ 220KW @ 2 simexs
My 4y hilux ... 500ishkm vs 80lts= 1.1 tonne 2 -60KW @ 33"muddies
Dads 67 289 mustag... 300kms vs 60ltr= 1.??? @ 190HP on the HWY
So... Unless you cant tune a engine or set up a computer map for injectors, pay somone else to do it and even then , Air + Fuel = Power **** or buy a electric engine , that that will sound shit and i hope i die before that happens!!!!!!!

Only say this cos there are some thing that sould be best left to the pros

something is not right with the management or fuel presure
is the engine check lt on?
u really need to get the diagnostics working
that way there is a good chance the computer will tell u what is wrong


what was your fuel presure reading?
it should vary with map

who did the wiring??

S.CoXy wrote:sorry to talk shit but here are some fule rates i know..
MY SLR5000 Torana 308... 300ishkm vs 110ltstank= 1.4 tonne@ 400+hp @ 2 wheels
Mates GU 4.8 pet turbo.. 300ishkm vs 200lts= 2tonne @ 220KW @ 2 simexs
My 4y hilux ... 500ishkm vs 80lts= 1.1 tonne 2 -60KW @ 33"muddies
Dads 67 289 mustag... 300kms vs 60ltr= 1.??? @ 190HP on the HWY
So... Unless you cant tune a engine or set up a computer map for injectors, pay somone else to do it and even then , Air + Fuel = Power **** or buy a electric engine , that that will sound shit and i hope i die before that happens!!!!!!!

its a factory computer nothing to adjust as far as maps etc
once the problem is found it will run fine something has been done wrong or not working correctly

first step see if the check light is on

S.CoXy wrote:sorry to talk shit but here are some fule rates i know..
MY SLR5000 Torana 308... 300ishkm vs 110ltstank= 1.4 tonne@ 400+hp @ 2 wheels
Mates GU 4.8 pet turbo.. 300ishkm vs 200lts= 2tonne @ 220KW @ 2 simexs
My 4y hilux ... 500ishkm vs 80lts= 1.1 tonne 2 -60KW @ 33"muddies
Dads 67 289 mustag... 300kms vs 60ltr= 1.??? @ 190HP on the HWY
So... Unless you cant tune a engine or set up a computer map for injectors, pay somone else to do it and even then , Air + Fuel = Power **** or buy a electric engine , that that will sound shit and i hope i die before that happens!!!!!!!

Thats a tuned engine u knob, hes trying to sought the bugs out or something has obviously gone wrong?, and to much fuel + air equals bad economy and less power, because fuel is all that matters in tuning a motor?. As im sure you should know 3rz's have more than a fuel and air screw.

Even if it was a programmable ecu, what do you learn from getting your wallet out and handing it to a shop for 100 dollars an hour. I for one would rather blow a std motor learning than spend a 1000 dollars for what more often than not is a half arseeee job

Am i reading correctly? 300ks to 200 litres of fuel and 220kw... ? surely not.

A 500 hp turbo 3rz ATW doesn't use anywhere near 40litres to a 100, so one would imagine it is more than tuning. you could not farrk the tuning up that badly without seeing a massive mistake in the fuel/compensation maps.

Onto something more helpful...

The occasional 3rz burns a valve for a few reasons, which would result in bad fuel economy, but would also result in a rough running motor...

If all else fails, compression test it.

Have you wired in the cold start sensor assy?, if not it shall punch in massive amounts of fuel

Is your original intake the same diameter as the 3rz intake, if it is not it could be running to lean or way to rich.

If you've done a engine conversion it should be pre wired with the ecu in the loom.

Are all the cold start hoses connected to where they should be for eg, pre throttle body , post throttle etc.

ok, thanks for all the replies. sorry bout the late reply.
first off there is no engine light i dont have the dash out of the RNZ in my car and dont know how to hook mine up if i can.

motor was compression tested before it left the shop i bought it from.
the 3rz intake is approx 3 and 1/4 inches i have used a 3 inch hose to filter box. little bit smaller but didnt think it would make that much difference,

i have done all wiring myself.. in saying that there isnt to much to wire in
most of the wires into the computer go in untouched. ive only wired relays to ecu, fuel pump, coils, and starter trigger. other than that there is a main power supply an acc power a starter trigger to let the motor know when your trying to start it and an earth and temp sender. pretty sure thats about it....

hoses from the throttleody i am unsure about. there is one for the egr im pretty sure that is on the throttle body it self (behind diagnosis port). i have this blocked off
there is another two i have run to air filter hose, both are behind accelerator assembly on motor. 1 directly behind the accelerator and 1 next to three other ones that look like they were were blocked of from factory.

i know nothing about cold start assy? should of been hooked up already i would of thought.

and i completly agree berad my car has never been to a shop . only reason its is now is know bugger all about fuel injection.

the guy i am taking it to says he can diagnose the problem by plugging in the diagnosis port and to the connections that plug into the computer. by doing this he says he can find whats missing inbetween?

and i completly agree that it is something i have done or havnt done that is causing this problem i just dont know what it is.

i am unsure of the pressure reading but it didnt change while we had it plugged in,

thanks for all your input

there are quite a few left over wires that go to the body of the car to the computer the engine check lt is one of those
also the speed sensor wire is a good one to hook up as it can change rev limiters
the engine will run with a lot of stuff missing (in limp mode) in the wiring department but if its not all done then it will not run right
yes getthe wiring to the point where it can do diagnostuics
it can do self diagnostics if you connect all the wiring u dont need a reader

thanks,
i will do some research and see if i can get the d port working. i thought the speed sensor went to the gearbox in these motors?

YN67highlux wrote:thanks,
i will do some research and see if i can get the d port working. i thought the speed sensor went to the gearbox in these motors?

nup the speed sensor goes to the dash its modified in there
the computer gets its signal from the dash you can hook the speed signal wire from the computer up to your old dash and it will work

heres the wiring i have been persisting with. will hook up engine light tomorrow after work

PLUG A (26 pin) - Connect to Computer Untouched
> PLUG B (16 pin) - Connect to Computer Untouched
>
> PLUG C (22 pin) - Connect to Computer - With the Following Additions
> (from
> the original body harness)
>
> ESSENTIAL:
> C1 Yellow +ve Constant 12V+ from a
> fused battery source - input
> C11 Pink & Black +ve Starter motor
> trigger ie. ign switch - input
> C12 Red & Blue +ve Supplied from EFI
> relay - input
> C14 Green & Yellow -ve Trigger for fuel
> pump relay - output
> 2 x 4 Pole Relays (EFI & Fuel Pump)
>
> NON ESSENTIAL:
> C4 Green & White Connect to stop
> light switch - input
> C5 Violet & Green -ve Check engine light -
> output
> C8 Red & White Tacho - output
> C9 Green & Orange Vehicle Speed Sensor - input
> C13 Green & Black 4WD Switch - input
>
> PLUG D (13 pin) - Supply the following sources into the loom
>
> ESSENTIAL:
> D1 Top Row Red & Blue +ve Supply to
> airflow meter from EFI relay - input
> D2 Bottom Row Black & Brown +ve Supply to ignition
> coil from EFI relay - input
> D6 Bottom Row Brown -ve Earthed to chassis -
> input
>
> PLUG E - Engine Diagnosis Port

will check my manual tommorow and try find something the speed sensor can plug into. have u got any info on this as i have no idea where or how ill do this, also i have double checked all wiring with the list the ecu guy has and its all accurate. will get bak to yas tomorra.
thanks again

check lt yeah good place to start so get a bulb one side to ignition the other to the wire from the computer
then conect te1 or t in the check connector to gnd the light will flash the fault codes
i normally hook as much as i can up
they do it for a reason
ie the headlights is so the engine idles up a litle when u switch your lights on so it does not stall as easy

YN67highlux wrote:will check my manual tommorow and try find something the speed sensor can plug into. have u got any info on this as i have no idea where or how ill do this, also i have double checked all wiring with the list the ecu guy has and its all accurate. will get bak to yas tomorra.
thanks again

yours has a cable speedo right?
well if so the speed sensor is gone from the box
u need to use the reed switch in the back of your old speedo
the wiring may nbot be in the loom of your car
u will have to connect directly to the reed switch on the back of the speedo there are 2 screws that are connected to it one is gnd the other is the signal wire