Outer Limits 4x4 Board

We did this a couple of months ago.
Have had a whole heap laser cut.
Allows you to get the arms a lot flatter and the right castor.
SAM

Can certainly see the benefits, ground clearance wise, in doing this mod but would have my doubts about the strength of the panhard rod with a bend in it like that. Has this type of modded panhard rod been tested and proven? What's the clearance like between the radius arms and chassis etc. on full compression?

If you were going to go to this much effort why wouldn't you just do a 5 link conversion?

I have 5 inch lift in my 80 and to correct castor angle we cut a V shape out of the radius arms 90 % of the way through and then closed them up to give the right castor and rewelded. Sounds as though they would be weak, and yes I had my doubts, but they have been in for over 2 years of some pretty hard driving without any probs.

The Fish wrote:Can certainly see the benefits, ground clearance wise, in doing this mod but would have my doubts about the strength of the panhard rod with a bend in it like that. Has this type of modded panhard rod been tested and proven? What's the clearance like between the radius arms and chassis etc. on full compression?

If you were going to go to this much effort why wouldn't you just do a 5 link conversion?

Just a thought!!

It is the standard pan hard rod turned up side down.
I havn't seen a five link on an 80 that handles nicely on road and yes we have made one .
For $180 for the plates I would say it is a lot cheaper too.
SAM

It is the standard pan hard rod turned up side down.

Sorry Sam I didn't pick that the pan hard rod was upside down, at first the bend looked to sharp!

I havn't seen a five link on an 80 that handles nicely on road

I have driven Wally's 80 ute with a 5 link at speeds well above 100km/h around corners and so on, and found it handled extremely good! He does have a sway bar fitted with the 5 link though.

Fair enough.
This is just a cost effective way to make a 5 plus inch lifted 80 drive nicely you do seem to get a bit more travel but nothing over the top and you never will using radius arms.
SAM

Definately a cost effective way to get the results required, no arguements there! Lot less work than a 5 link and radius arms are untouched as far as strength integerity is concerned.

You never answered my question about clearance on the radius arms under full compression? Would be very interested to know as i would consider this mod just to improve ground clearance!!

Sorry missed your question on full up travel there was plenty of room between the arm and chassis.
SAM

The Fish wrote:Can certainly see the benefits, ground clearance wise, in doing this mod but would have my doubts about the strength of the panhard rod with a bend in it like that. Has this type of modded panhard rod been tested and proven? What's the clearance like between the radius arms and chassis etc. on full compression?

If you were going to go to this much effort why wouldn't you just do a 5 link conversion?

I have 5 inch lift in my 80 and to correct castor angle we cut a V shape out of the radius arms 90 % of the way through and then closed them up to give the right castor and rewelded. Sounds as though they would be weak, and yes I had my doubts, but they have been in for over 2 years of some pretty hard driving without any probs.

your joking that sounds way bodge and have u got it engineered ???

ben, i dont really see the problem if it is plated and welded properly. I have seen waaaaaaay dodgie things.


NICK

OVERKILL ENGINEERING wrote:We did this a couple of months ago.
Have had a whole heap laser cut.
Allows you to get the arms a lot flatter and the right castor.
SAM

sam, what sort of dollars would we be talking for this conversion??

mine handles like a bucket of S%#T as the person who set it up did not do the castor correctly... won't mention names or businesses

very interested.

80 series arms are made out of forged steel and in being steel can be played with with no probs i only do this mod on my own and mates trucks. i done this to the missus 80 4 years ago wheni fitted some 6" springs and made the arms 40mm longer as well to fit some 38" swampers and never had a prob. Keep in mind that i am experienced in welding hitensile steels and apply the correct preperation and welding techniques to ensure a successful weld. I will admit that getting the front 5 link in my 80 ute to drive good took some work to set up but in the end it was worth it as the articulation is far better than can be achieved with radius arms. lately i have made up various jigs to redrill the standard radius arm mount on the diff to retain the std radius arm bushes witchallow the best flex but this still limit tyre sizes as the diff needs to be moved forward to succesfully run tyres of 37' or larger and have the clearange to not to rip off GXL flares and mud flaps.
As for the panard rod it looks far from standard it looks like it has a piece of the standard bar at the end. The standard front 80 panard has a bow at the end but the centre line is true between the two bushes and the straight section of the bar. what is shown in the photo would not be as strong as the original as when a load is applied to the ends of the bar it would tend to close up or open up bending flexing and eventually fatigue. In my experiance you cant beat a straight arm as when i set up my 5 link in my 80 all my arms are straight and it was a battle to get the correct suspension geometry but its very reliable. Straight arms would nearly be impossible with a bolt in conversions that are available but are designed for people with limited workshop facilities and fabrication skills.

Wally

As for the panard rod it looks far from standard it looks like it has a piece of the standard bar at the end. The standard front 80 panard has a bow at the end but the centre line is true between the two bushes and the straight section of the bar. what is shown in the photo would not be as strong as the original as when a load is applied to the ends of the bar it would tend to close up or open up bending flexing and eventually fatigue.

Wally[/quote]

That is a standard front pan hard rod that has just been laminated and has had the first bend in the arm redused to clear the radius arm.It is plenty strong enough as it has the whole of the original panhard inside the tube and has numerous plug welds along it.

XXXL80 wrote:

OVERKILL ENGINEERING wrote:We did this a couple of months ago.
Have had a whole heap laser cut.
Allows you to get the arms a lot flatter and the right castor.
SAM

sam, what sort of dollars would we be talking for this conversion??

mine handles like a bucket of S%#T as the person who set it up did not do the castor correctly... won't mention names or businesses

very interested.

The plates are $180 for the 4.
SAM

NICK wrote:ben, i dont really see the problem if it is plated and welded properly. I have seen waaaaaaay dodgie things.


NICK

yeah but where does it say in his post that it is plated ????

Hypolux,

Engineered!!! I'd be fairly confident to say that 90% of the wheelers on OL who have done any sort of structural/suspension type mods/fabrications to there 4bs wouldn't have all of those mods engineered!

The best part about this mod is if you have any concerns insurance wise the arms can be swapped for standard ones in about 10 mins. It would take a keen eye from someone with a lot of 80 series knowledge to pick the modded arms.

And as Nick said, this mod would rate fairly low on the BODGE scale in comparison to some of the bodgey mods I've seen and two years of abuse have proven there strength

Why would you laminate the panard along the straight section as that is the strongest if is going to bend it would be in the bowed section which has been weakend by changing its configuration and finishing the lamination at the bend.



Wally

i didnt mean laminate along the straight section, i meant where you cut and bend it. Maybe it doesnt need it at all? Are we talking about the panhard or the trailing arm?

Im talking about the trailing arm. As far as the panhard goes i agree with 80ute, you are creating extra strenght along the straight section of the rod but inturn weaking the bent section as it is effectively half the thickness of the rest of the tube. Also i think that you would have to cut the eyelet of one end to laminate it?


NICK