Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Just after opinions.

I've installed a 2" body lift, and a little doubtful about the torque setting for the new bolts - seems a bit light.

I couldn't find a torque setting in the Gregory's manual for the car (no real surprise there ) so I used Google to search for a recommended torque for the bolts - M10, grade 8.8. I didn't need to swing on the torque wrench as hard as I expected, so I thought I ask the question.

What have other people used?

Thanks,

Scott

i didnt talk body bolts.
I just used a standard length 1/2 inch drive rachet and pushed till it was as tight as i could get em withour risk of shier.
They need to be tight. If u used nylock nuts and did them tight they wont go anywhere.

But if u want to do them as tight as u have them, run a spanner over them again after 200km of drivin and see if they have losened at all. If they have tighten em again but tigther

screwy

As tight as you could? Didn't that squash or crack the rubber under the washer? I left them with only enough pressure on the rubber to just start to get it to flatten. That really wasn't all that tight on the ratchet, but the nylock nuts hold fairly snuggly.

I really wasn't sure how tight to make them, but I thought this was a reasonable compromise which still allowed some give between the body and the chassis. Of course, it is designed to give a little, or the rubber would not be there at all.

Mitsu factory specs for body to frame bolt torque = 20-23 ft lbs (28-32 Nm).
I just tightened the bejesus out of em with a half inch drive but found after a couple of trips the nylocs needed a nip up.

Thanks Frank.

The specs I found on the web suggested around 40lb-ft/55Nm, so that's what I used. With the long handle on the torque wrench it seemed pretty easy, but it didn't take much to crack the nuts either.

When I put my normal driver against the torque wrench to make it "click" I certainly had to lean hard on the shorter driver.

I guess I'll have to get the chassis twisting a bit, and give them a check!

Scott