Outer Limits 4x4 Board

To me its a no brainer with the types of sustained angles we willingly put our vehicles on.
I'm looking at putting a moroso 3quart one on the new winch truck 6.2L and was wondering if anyone off here uses one or has used one in any application.

any info would be appreciated.
One pro i do see is the increased oil volume so potentially better cooling.

cheers smitty

I've always wondered about this myself, as an oil sump is a pretty medieval design imho. I've often wondered about just using a remote oil reservoir set-up but haven't really looked into any of it so I'll be interested in the answers.

What have you found out so far?

Never thought about this but would be a good idea if it worked. Does any one know how quickly oil flows around an engine and how long 3 quart woiuld last?

petersens 4w and offroad installed one in a jeep with a 350 years ago, from memory i think it gave them an extra 3 mins at idle when then the car was way out of shape winching up a rock ledge (car was on its third small block from the same prob). i think back in 01 i wrecked a efi falcon engine in my swb cruiser with a remote setup using flash oil filters from the states that didnt have a anti drain back valve for startup. can anyone else confirm anything like this? or it could have been my lead foot problem i used to have.

Three minutes sounds like an incredibly long time.

vpw.com.au is selling them for around $280

However, after looking around i would put a check valve in between the pump and accumulater to stop any drain back.

I got put on to this by modified toy off of here and its a pretty cool idea, I just cant believe it isn't more commonly used and was wondering why.

One application i've read is that with a tap or electric solenoid valve you could isolate it before you shut the engine off and keep the charge to prelube the motor before startup.

smitty

I think it's a waste of time. Car Manufacturers have already though about severe angles when designing sumps. Only benefit might be if you're running non standard engines/sumps.

hammey wrote: However, after looking around i would put a check valve in between the pump and accumulater to stop any drain back.

smitty

How does this work?

You charge the accumulator with oil, the engine starves of oil then the accumulator tries to push oil back into the system but it cant because the check valve closes. Seems a bit silly to me

Hey Z()LTON, the check valve sits between the oil pump and the accumulator so the oil is forced into the galleries when the pickup is starved.
It would also be used in the prelube startup for the same reason.

Exactly right oldmate, i'm also quite sure standing a car near vertical either up or down for a period of time while some one runs out a winch rope to get you out of the shyt was the last thing on Holden's mind when they developed the ls3.

This is why i'm looking into these as possible oil pressure insurance.

cheers smitty

I've fitted them to many industrial diesels to help preserve turbo life on engines that stop and start suddenly and some where low idle is still very loaded up and the turbos are still working hard (just not flat out). The check valves are there to make sure that when the accumulator feeds the oil system ( its discharging) that the oil doesn't go back through the shortest route ( through the oil pump ) without going through your engine first.
Might be a good thing if done properly. I think if you are looking at these sorts of problems and remedys, you're well outside of anything the car manufacturers would have forseen.
Oops, noticed, hammey posted while I was typing.

If your going to that trouble, and its going to cost $280, would a full scavenger setup not be worth it?

I think the scavenger pumps them selves are quite expensive, but once youve done this, you can scavenge from sump front rear (make custom very shallow sump) rocker cover front rear and have remote sump (5L, 10L).

Then you can drive upside down.

by scavenger setup I mean dry sump, utilising a scavenger pump D:

hmm, scavenger setup will be about $2k+, so maybe a $280 accumulator is a good idea