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flex troubles

Posted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 11:30 pm
by BENWAH17
i have brought a nissan gq tray coil cab heaverly modified...
it has 4 inch tough dog coils under it and flexs fukin shit...

im only young and want to build this car up good. can people please tell me wat coils i could run to get huge flex and keep my hight.... i have seen cars like mine gettin flexed on 44 drums... what do i need do..

can you also show me show pics of urs flexed up please... cheers

Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 9:06 am
by SuperiorEngineering
Their are a lot of options available, it depends on what you want, eg rockcrawing, daily driving , speed and flex, ramp queen, race truck .

Just getting your truck to "flex on a 44 will not make it a better truck"

This is one choice if you still want to retain good drivabilty, certainly not going to give you the most flex but you can still drive the car as a daily driver , Fit SRC shocks and you can flog the truck on and offroad with awesome handling and still outflex your mates who have standard arms.

Some other options are 3 link, 4 link , x-link( these all need cutting and welding and fabrication as a general rule )

You will also have to take into account if your truck is a street driven truck and the legalities of it, you would not go and modify the front to a weld in 5 link ect if you cant get it engineered .
As soon as you get pulled over by DOT its of the road so if it is a street driver a bolt in application is a better way to go.

Hope this helped a bit.

Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 9:07 am
by SuperiorEngineering
Their are a lot of options available, it depends on what you want, eg rockcrawing, daily driving , speed and flex, ramp queen, race truck .

Just getting your truck to "flex on a 44 will not make it a better truck"

This is one choice if you still want to retain good drivabilty, certainly not going to give you the most flex but you can still drive the car as a daily driver , Fit SRC shocks and you can flog the truck on and offroad with awesome handling and still outflex your mates who have standard arms.

Some other options are 3 link, 4 link , x-link( these all need cutting and welding and fabrication as a general rule )

You will also have to take into account if your truck is a street driven truck and the legalities of it, you would not go and modify the front to a weld in 5 link ect if you cant get it engineered .
As soon as you get pulled over by DOT its of the road so if it is a street driver a bolt in application is a better way to go.

http://www.superiorengineering.com.au/i ... ?pag_id=24

Hope this helped a bit.

Re: flex troubles

Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 2:06 pm
by sudso
BENWAH17 wrote:i have brought a nissan gq tray coil cab heaverly modified...
it has 4 inch tough dog coils under it and flexs fukin shit...

im only young and want to build this car up good. can people please tell me wat coils i could run to get huge flex and keep my hight.... i have seen cars like mine gettin flexed on 44 drums... what do i need do..

can you also show me show pics of urs flexed up please... cheers
A bit more info might help everyone. Such as:
What are the spring rates of the coils? (wire diameter?)
Are the shocks making full use of the coil lengths? (shocks long enough?)
Do the radius arms have castor bushes, std bushes, slotted bushes, castor plates, dropped arms, drop boxes?

Most utes need weight on the rear or low lb spring rates to get flexing well but it's at the expense of load carrying ability.
Also what do you consider to be shit flex? Are you comparing to Tuff Truck rock crawlers etc?

There's plenty of gear available to get it flexing well but wont necessarily make it properly useful on or off road. It's got to be balanced out between the front and rear. There's always a compromise.

Basically what SE said about what you want to mainly use it for will determine what set up you'll need.
Most people just want a good all rounder usually which will have little compromises here and there.

Posted: Sat Mar 13, 2010 8:44 pm
by BadMav
If you're running castor plates, take out the passenger front radius arm bolt the one on the front of the diff
Image
Image.

Poor man's x link, but it works. (only do it off road of course, they handle like crap on the road). ;)

Posted: Sat Mar 13, 2010 8:55 pm
by bogged
BadMav wrote:If you're running castor plates, take out the passenger front radius arm bolt the one on the front of the diff
or just do it properly.

Huge Flex is hideously overrated

Posted: Sat Mar 13, 2010 9:00 pm
by mike_nofx
Wouldn't that only give you good flex on one side?

Posted: Sat Mar 13, 2010 9:35 pm
by BadMav
mike_nofx wrote:Wouldn't that only give you good flex on one side?
Nope, both, give it a try.

Check out my vid on you tube

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mbMm2pDHSRY

PS, DOOOOOON'T take both front bolts out!!!!!!!!!