Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Roller drawer help - WTF does this bit do?
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
Roller drawer help - WTF does this bit do?
Hi all,
I'm finally getting my drawers organised for a few trips coming up this year. I have replaced all of the dodgy Sylon rollers with some 6300's, and fixed up 1-2 cracked welds too.
The drawers are not "branded", however they do appear to be manfactured as opposed to a backyard job. All folded and seam welded, all gal steel. The top was 12mm marine ply with marine carpet, much the same as most other drawers you see on the market.
At present, there is no drawer retaining system in place, ie. if you were to open a drawer with the car pointing up hill, they would just fly out completely. While i have thought of a few different ways of retaining the drawers, i thought that this might have something to do with it (items labelled "WTF?")
There is a 3mm plate on the butt of the box section (which the rollers run on), which also has two threaded holes in it. The actual drawer chassis also has two holes cut in it to allow access to these threaded holes.
Does anybody know what they're for?
Cheers!
I'm finally getting my drawers organised for a few trips coming up this year. I have replaced all of the dodgy Sylon rollers with some 6300's, and fixed up 1-2 cracked welds too.
The drawers are not "branded", however they do appear to be manfactured as opposed to a backyard job. All folded and seam welded, all gal steel. The top was 12mm marine ply with marine carpet, much the same as most other drawers you see on the market.
At present, there is no drawer retaining system in place, ie. if you were to open a drawer with the car pointing up hill, they would just fly out completely. While i have thought of a few different ways of retaining the drawers, i thought that this might have something to do with it (items labelled "WTF?")
There is a 3mm plate on the butt of the box section (which the rollers run on), which also has two threaded holes in it. The actual drawer chassis also has two holes cut in it to allow access to these threaded holes.
Does anybody know what they're for?
Cheers!
The chassis is made of folded steel, maybe 1-2mm thick, and the chassis base is made of 20x75mm steel. The drawers are made of the same folded steel, with 20x75mm roller runners.
In the picture where the two circles are, the darker section you can see through the round holes is actually the butt of the 20x75mm roller runner on the drawer.
In the picture where the two circles are, the darker section you can see through the round holes is actually the butt of the 20x75mm roller runner on the drawer.
Bingo! We have a winner!Cyrel wrote:On mine they had plates screwed onto the end of the runner to stop the draw from sliding all the way out. you unscrew these to remove the draw from the frame.
Cheers
That makes perfect sense. I'll bolt some 3x25 flat bar on there using the threaded holes (the plate will be mounted from the base of the roller-runner, and extend about 50mm above the top edge of the roller-runner), and when i open the drawers, the flat bar will stop the end of the drawers going any further than the first upper roller bearing.
I could even go all-out and put some camping mattress foam on the plates so the drawers dont slam shut.
no point using 10 or even 6mm if the flange is only 3mm, but I agree with Dane on the momentum, maybe use some angle instead of flat so it picks up a mount on the side as well as the front.Dane wrote:You may want to use something a bit heavier. When you load up drawers with heavy stuff they can get quite a bit of momentum up and the 3mm may bend. Use 6 or 10mm if it will fit and never think about it again.
Peter.
Cable bracing is the way of the future!
v840 said "That sounds like a booty fab, hack job piece of shit no offence."
v840 said "That sounds like a booty fab, hack job piece of shit no offence."
I've got some spare 5mm sitting around, so i might use that. I reckon that if i ever happened to go past the limit of some 5mm plate, i'd have more to worry about than just the plate bending (i think the bearing/bolt would bend or tear out of the chassis). I suppose i'll have to check what has been welded onto the butt of the roller-runner and just match that thickness (as pete pointed out).droopypete wrote:no point using 10 or even 6mm if the flange is only 3mm, but I agree with Dane on the momentum, maybe use some angle instead of flat so it picks up a mount on the side as well as the front.Dane wrote:You may want to use something a bit heavier. When you load up drawers with heavy stuff they can get quite a bit of momentum up and the 3mm may bend. Use 6 or 10mm if it will fit and never think about it again.
Peter.
Cyrel, what brand are the drawers that you have? I'd be keen to find out if they're the same as mine, and what brand they are.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 95 guests