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HEY 1b specifications or info
Posted: Mon Jun 07, 2004 10:01 pm
by Reddo
dose anyone have any cross section diagrams of 1 b motor, what kind of lifter do they have ?
or any websites that could be of use
ta
james
Re: HEY 1b specifications or info
Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2004 10:10 am
by dumbdunce
Reddo wrote:dose anyone have any cross section diagrams of 1 b motor, what kind of lifter do they have ?
or any websites that could be of use
ta
james
I posted some info in the 'day crew signin' thread. the lifters are mechanical, regular oldschool cylindrical followers with pushrods and rockers. if you have lots of top end noise there is any number of things it could be - start by adjusting valve clearances and work from there. could be as minor as out of adjustment or as bad as a dropped/cracked precombustion chamber. the early B motors are a bit weak, a good swap would be a later 3B with aftermarket turbo or a 13B-T.
Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2004 10:52 am
by Reddo
yep, it's a cracked precombustion chamber, so the head is farked........
thanks very much for your help dumbdunce, in both threads, but i can do a holden 253 conversion for about $300-$400 so i might go that way...
Although i can get a toyo 6 cheap, so i might work one of those over, i have to consider my $$ first. Once again thanks very much
JAMES
Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2004 11:01 am
by dumbdunce
Reddo wrote:yep, it's a cracked precombustion chamber, so the head is farked........
thanks very much for your help dumbdunce, in both threads, but i can do a holden 253 conversion for about $300-$400 so i might go that way...
Although i can get a toyo 6 cheap, so i might work one of those over, i have to consider my $$ first. Once again thanks very much
JAMES
bummer. you got the head off already???
Geoff Walsh Engine Parts carries an aftermarket head for those motors I think, if you are interested in fixing it up. if you're lucky the pistons are ok.
I'd be surprised if you could do the 253 for under about $1500 but if you've got all the parts lying around, go for it. need bellhousing or adaptor plate, input shaft, motor, mounts, and some booty fab skillz.
the toyota 6's, diesel and petrol (2H,2F I assume you are talking about) have a different bellhousing pattern and gearbox input spline, so the best way to do it is to get a motor and gearbox and rop the lot in together.
Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2004 11:21 am
by GeneralFubashi
can you not just pop out the old pre-combustion chambers and push in new ones? What were the symtoms that gave it away?
I just replaced the head on my b with a new 'seconds' head for mucho cheaper, so i get to keep all that blazing power for a few more years to come.
Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2004 11:29 am
by dumbdunce
GeneralFubashi wrote:can you not just pop out the old pre-combustion chambers and push in new ones? What were the symtoms that gave it away?
I just replaced the head on my b with a new 'seconds' head for mucho cheaper, so i get to keep all that blazing power for a few more years to come.
they are replacable but if they have dropped a chunk then lots of damage is done by the chunk floating around in the cylinder.
he was complaining of lots of top end noise so could be broken valves etc into the mix.
Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2004 11:35 am
by GeneralFubashi
oh right, cheers
sam
Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2004 11:41 am
by Reddo
i can get 2 253 for $100 one was reco about 5000k's ago, the others running, so i can use it for parts......he owes me
the houseing and bits and pices i can get of a bloke for $250.
won't a 2H bolt straight up to the 4 speed in the Bj40? i always though that they were the same.
JAMES
Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2004 11:55 am
by GeneralFubashi
from what i have heard, no, the input shaft lengths differ, but just for the B/H engines. You also have to add the cost of a long range fuel tank to the cost of a 253 conversion. 800k - to around the block a couple a times, is the difference in consumption.
sam
Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2004 11:58 am
by dumbdunce
Reddo wrote:
won't a 2H bolt straight up to the 4 speed in the Bj40? i always though that they were the same.
JAMES
sadly not.
the input shaft spline is different, the input shaft is longer, the bellhousing bolt pattern at the motor end is different. you can re-use the gearbox but you have to pull it apart and put the 6 cylinder input gear/shaft in it. too much hard work.
the gearbox does have the same designation though - probably a H41 is a BJ40 or FJ40 or HJ45 so it would be easy to think they would mix and match.
Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2004 12:21 pm
by Reddo
GeneralFubashi wrote:from what i have heard, no, the input shaft lengths differ, but just for the B/H engines. You also have to add the cost of a long range fuel tank to the cost of a 253 conversion. 800k - to around the block a couple a times, is the difference in consumption.
sam
Got that solved, i have two tanks, the standard one, bout 65 l and an reserve that’s about 75-80, both are under the seats. ALTHOUGH i might be a bit worried about sitting on 150 liters of petrol, no smoking please…..
JAMES
Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2004 12:23 pm
by Reddo
dumbdunce wrote:
sadly not.
the input shaft spline is different, the input shaft is longer, the bellhousing bolt pattern at the motor end is different. you can re-use the gearbox but you have to pull it apart and put the 6 cylinder input gear/shaft in it. too much hard work.
the gearbox does have the same designation though - probably a H41 is a BJ40 or FJ40 or HJ45 so it would be easy to think they would mix and match.
it's nice to know that before i did it, thanks.
There are two diffrent types of conversion kits for the 253, the dellows, and whats the other, and whats the pro's and cos of both?
JAMES
Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2004 12:30 pm
by dumbdunce
Reddo wrote:
There are two diffrent types of conversion kits for the 253, the dellows, and whats the other, and whats the pro's and cos of both?
JAMES
you can probably get the bellhousing etc from Marks Adaptors, last time I looked they didn't sell any bellhousings under $1000, plus the cost of input shaft adaptors, custom clutch etc.
Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2004 12:41 pm
by Reddo
yeah, thats sounds about right, the kit this guys got is the older style, where you have to knock in the fire walls to fit both heads in. to over come this you can put the 60 series 5 speed in, which is longer and thus takes away the problem of the firewall.
Another question is, how will the 5 speed fit in, will it bolt straght up to the current transfer case?
and do i have to put in a cross member, to support the G-box?
Even if it is a case of adapting the firewall, i have done so much work to it, that this is kinda small time stuff.
JAMES
Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2004 1:07 pm
by dumbdunce
Reddo wrote:yeah, thats sounds about right, the kit this guys got is the older style, where you have to knock in the fire walls to fit both heads in. to over come this you can put the 60 series 5 speed in, which is longer and thus takes away the problem of the firewall.
Another question is, how will the 5 speed fit in, will it bolt straght up to the current transfer case?
and do i have to put in a cross member, to support the G-box?
Even if it is a case of adapting the firewall, i have done so much work to it, that this is kinda small time stuff.
JAMES
no your 1 piece transfer won't bolt up to a 60 series 5 speed, and yes you need to mod your frame for a crossmember whatever V8 you put in there the v8s and any newer toyota engine have only 2 engine mounts.
RTA (in NSW anyway) is pretty unhappy with any sort of firewall mods. if you want a 5 speed I'd get the gearbox and transfer as a unit out of a 60 or later 40 series, adapt up your v8, set up your engine mounts so no firewall mods are necessary, then get custom tailshafts made to suit.
your $300 budget is now well over $2000 even with a free motor.
Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2004 1:24 pm
by Reddo
hmmm, how much for a 3b again
Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2004 1:33 pm
by dumbdunce
Reddo wrote:hmmm, how much for a 3b again
anything from maybe $1500 and up I'd say, depending on condition. even then I think you might end up with needing to do the crossmember, BJ42's have a crossmember instead of 4 engine mounts.
cheapest way out is prob to fix the B unless it's fully dead.
Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2004 1:38 pm
by Reddo
hey, thanks very much for all your help, if the B is dead, i can get a fj55 with 4 speed and 6 for $400, will it fit in?
this is really appreciated, it’s allowing me to asses my situation
JAMES
Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2004 1:55 pm
by dumbdunce
Reddo wrote:hey, thanks very much for all your help, if the B is dead, i can get a fj55 with 4 speed and 6 for $400, will it fit in?
JAMES
yeah probably - might need to dick with the engine mounts to get it all happy.
i
Posted: Sat Jun 12, 2004 3:07 pm
by Reddo
Okay got the head off today, and the 2nd cylinder had collapsed so there was small amounts of metal have been floating around the top of the piston, so this was the rattling noise.
There is no damage to the head, but in its lifting it’s been sitting around before it got it, and the head is corroded.
So yeah, she's farked, so I will be looking for a 6 and g-box sometime, but it's all $$$$$$$$$$$$'s I don't have at the moment.
Thanks for your help lads
James