Any one relocated their links and by how much.
Does the top link have to move as well. (not many options here with out moving cross member).
seriously thinking about doing this and fitting bollocks type joint at the chassy.
regards
Michael.
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Moving rear link mount on chasy.
Moderator: Micka
Moving rear link mount on chasy.
Mitsubishi 2010 NT DID Pajero wagon, Factory rear diff lock, Dual batteries, ARB bar, winch, Mt ATZ 4 rib tyres.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
Just done/ doing a RR rear end, New custom (A) frame out of 36mmx10mm wall HT tube, HD lower links ( same material) slight longer to fix pinion angle, and got rid of that POS ball joint and replaced it with a HD swivel. Replaced all bushes with Hi flex ones, changed upper and lower shock mounts and fitted long travel Rancho shocks. Did a couple of Cheezy racing things to the coils and am in the middle of rolling the front diff. :wink: 8)
NOW ABLE TOO SAY WHAT I WANT WITHOUT FEAR OF LOOSING SALES.
The person who says it cannot be done should not interrupt the person doing it.
The person who says it cannot be done should not interrupt the person doing it.
Its very easy to relocate the lower chassis mounts (the ears) up higher and further forward. If you are running bigger tyres or any lift this is one of the first things I would do. It gets rid of the hang up point on the chassis (which is a big bonus) and reduces any hopping problems on steep climbs and reduces a lot of front tyre lifting as well.
All you got to do is firstly weld some scrap steel from the chassis to the rear axle on both sides both forwards and backwards so that the rear axle carnt move when you pull the lower links.
Remove the lower links, remove the triangular rubber chassis mount bush. Cut the ear off the chassis in a vertical line straight down the side of the chassis (dont cut around the corner below the chassis at this point. You just want to end up with a totally flat cut so that the bracket can be welded onto a flat surface) Then cut off the rest of the bracket still welded to the bottom of the chassis.
Now to make the arms - get some thick walled pipe that has an ID that is a bit bigger than the OD of the arms. Cut the pipe to whatever length you want the arms (like 1000mm or 1200mm or whatever). Cut your old arms in half, poke each end into the new pipe and weld them (also good to through in some plug welds along the length as well.
Mount the new arms back on the diff. Put the trianglar bushes back into the ear brackets. Put the ear brackets back onto the arms. lift the ears and arms up till they are on the side of the chassis, clean all the paint and goo off where you got to weld. Tack weld the ears onto the chassis, pull the arms off and the triangular bushes weld the ears on, paint it if you are keen, put everything back together and then cut off the pieces of steel that held the axle in place and you are good to go.
I wouldnt worry about the upper A frame at all for the moment. Extended lowers work very well.
Heres a pic that I found of my rover.
Sam
All you got to do is firstly weld some scrap steel from the chassis to the rear axle on both sides both forwards and backwards so that the rear axle carnt move when you pull the lower links.
Remove the lower links, remove the triangular rubber chassis mount bush. Cut the ear off the chassis in a vertical line straight down the side of the chassis (dont cut around the corner below the chassis at this point. You just want to end up with a totally flat cut so that the bracket can be welded onto a flat surface) Then cut off the rest of the bracket still welded to the bottom of the chassis.
Now to make the arms - get some thick walled pipe that has an ID that is a bit bigger than the OD of the arms. Cut the pipe to whatever length you want the arms (like 1000mm or 1200mm or whatever). Cut your old arms in half, poke each end into the new pipe and weld them (also good to through in some plug welds along the length as well.
Mount the new arms back on the diff. Put the trianglar bushes back into the ear brackets. Put the ear brackets back onto the arms. lift the ears and arms up till they are on the side of the chassis, clean all the paint and goo off where you got to weld. Tack weld the ears onto the chassis, pull the arms off and the triangular bushes weld the ears on, paint it if you are keen, put everything back together and then cut off the pieces of steel that held the axle in place and you are good to go.
I wouldnt worry about the upper A frame at all for the moment. Extended lowers work very well.
Heres a pic that I found of my rover.
Sam
Pearsonly I do not know why you would want to move your control arms forward. From the standard pos' you can get them to move an easy 3" more with a kicker behind the BLTC bush. The "A" frame end also needs to be modified but that is all that is required (except for shock mounts etc.) I understand the reasons that people do move them but to me all this does is make them a hell of a lot more exposed. We replace enough on customers vehicles without making them longer. We also sleeve the original arms to more than double the strength.
Andrew,
My current arms.
Reason i wish to relocat is to have them up on the chassy not hanging down.
When relocating I can utilise a much better swivel set up removing another area of binding from the RR suspension.
My current arms.
Reason i wish to relocat is to have them up on the chassy not hanging down.
When relocating I can utilise a much better swivel set up removing another area of binding from the RR suspension.
Mitsubishi 2010 NT DID Pajero wagon, Factory rear diff lock, Dual batteries, ARB bar, winch, Mt ATZ 4 rib tyres.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
changing the link length and mounting points is also done to change the dynamics of the suspension, ie anti-squat, roll oversteer, etc. not just to remove the hang-up point or decrease the bind at the chassis mount bush.
I havent done it but I think a longer arm of adequate material is going to be far more 'surfable' than a beefed stock type link that still has the ear hanging off the chassis with a sharp leading edge, but I guess adding material in front of the mount as a 'ramp' could work too.....if your happy with the geometry
Daryl
I havent done it but I think a longer arm of adequate material is going to be far more 'surfable' than a beefed stock type link that still has the ear hanging off the chassis with a sharp leading edge, but I guess adding material in front of the mount as a 'ramp' could work too.....if your happy with the geometry
Daryl
Re:
good info there, im thinkin of doing a custom set up on my 60 seriesStrange Rover wrote:Its very easy to relocate the lower chassis mounts (the ears) up higher and further forward. If you are running bigger tyres or any lift this is one of the first things I would do. It gets rid of the hang up point on the chassis (which is a big bonus) and reduces any hopping problems on steep climbs and reduces a lot of front tyre lifting as well.
All you got to do is firstly weld some scrap steel from the chassis to the rear axle on both sides both forwards and backwards so that the rear axle carnt move when you pull the lower links.
Remove the lower links, remove the triangular rubber chassis mount bush. Cut the ear off the chassis in a vertical line straight down the side of the chassis (dont cut around the corner below the chassis at this point. You just want to end up with a totally flat cut so that the bracket can be welded onto a flat surface) Then cut off the rest of the bracket still welded to the bottom of the chassis.
Now to make the arms - get some thick walled pipe that has an ID that is a bit bigger than the OD of the arms. Cut the pipe to whatever length you want the arms (like 1000mm or 1200mm or whatever). Cut your old arms in half, poke each end into the new pipe and weld them (also good to through in some plug welds along the length as well.
Mount the new arms back on the diff. Put the trianglar bushes back into the ear brackets. Put the ear brackets back onto the arms. lift the ears and arms up till they are on the side of the chassis, clean all the paint and goo off where you got to weld. Tack weld the ears onto the chassis, pull the arms off and the triangular bushes weld the ears on, paint it if you are keen, put everything back together and then cut off the pieces of steel that held the axle in place and you are good to go.
I wouldnt worry about the upper A frame at all for the moment. Extended lowers work very well.
Heres a pic that I found of my rover.
Sam
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