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overheating feroza
Posted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 5:22 pm
by optima
Posted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 5:50 pm
by mnemonix
Overheating is a feature Daihatsu included from the factory for the feroza.
They all do it to some degree.
Partially to do with the water pump producing more cavitation than flow, small bore water galleries through the donk, and inefficiant radiator.
Posted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 6:23 pm
by murcod
Use the search function!
(....and be prepared for a lot of reading
)
Posted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 7:01 pm
by Goatse.AJ
I'd start with pulling out the radiator and giving it a good external wash and an internal flush. THEN, I'd look at a new water pump.
What symptoms are you experiencing? Are you going by what your temp guage is telling you? It may be something as simple as a dodgy radiator cap, causing your overflow res to overflow.....
Posted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 7:54 pm
by optima
mnemonix
shit thats no good haha do you think a new water pump might help
murcod
i did a bit of a search but most of wat i found was for rockys
ajferoza
yes the temp gauge was reading high the water was bubbling a bit in the block but only for about 15 20 seconds after i shut it of an the heat off the engine just felt like it was to hot ( if that makes any sence)
Posted: Sun Mar 28, 2010 5:39 pm
by tufferoza
i have seen posted a couple times about the water pump cavitating, i am wondering if a larger pulley was used on the water pump to slow it down is all that needed?
guess i'll just have to try it.
and if anyone has moved the thermastat? where did you put it? i was thinking inline with the outlet pipe running along the ex manifold.
Posted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 8:17 am
by MightyMouse
Feroza's have a smaller pulley than applauses to give better water flow at idle. I've tried both with little difference - IMO the pumps just rubbish, but its just one of a number of issues that all contribute to the problem
Blocked radiator, Failing Fan clutch, no shroud, odd thermostat, "intersting" water flow in the head, Ho hum water pump - and probably others i've missed.
Yes i've moved the thermostat - made a 90 Deg housing which connects to the 90 Deg bit coming out of the rear of the block - just conects to a shortened version of the standard pipe.
Inline would work - BUT it will need to be as close to the outlet as possible for decent temp control.
Even if you get it working standard, heavy off road use will still be an issue especially on hot days. I've got a 3 row core, twin 16" Spal electric fans - 1 front the other rear, relocated thermostat, some head work - everything but a better pump.
Was making a proper mechanical unit ( electric would also work but was concerned re reliability ) but have paused re engine decissions.....
As is typical Feroza - nothing is easy.
Posted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 11:58 am
by optima
Posted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 12:18 pm
by MightyMouse
THin gasket will help with the huge clearnace at the pump rear BUT will also slightly mis-align the belt ( but could be worth a try.... )
No shroud = bad thing, put it back ASAP.
Just keep in mind there's a fairly narrow temperature range in which an engine operates efficiently, too cold and it will drop economy and have tighter clearances which MAY cause premature engine wear - too hot, well we all know the answer to that.
No thermost can also be a problem - if the rate of water flow through the engine is too high, it doesn't get time to transfer heat from the components. Engines with thermostats removed often run a restrictor disk to control the flow.
Posted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 5:19 pm
by optima
ill have to try an find a fan shroud. (anyone have one they want to get rid of send me a pm
)
as for a restrictor plate how would you preform such a mod
cheers daniel
Posted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 12:28 pm
by MightyMouse
knock the mechanism out of an old thermostat......
Posted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 1:25 pm
by optima
ok thanks for the help fella's