Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Guys,

Im very keen to wack a motor driven air compressor on my rig.
Done some searching and found that the York 210 is the best one, though unfortunatly doesnt come with the right style of mounting so i cant use it.

So therefore i want to use a sandan 508 compressor.
I want to use one with an in-biult sump on it so that its self lubricated and i dont need oil seperators in the line.

I know that the sandan 508 is such a model.
Unfortunatly that part number is old and no one stocks it or can cross reference it with a new number. All they can come up with is normal compressors.
i want the sump style.

does anyone run this compressor???
if so is there a specific number for it, or can anyone tell me where they got theres or off wat type of car, if at wreckers?


any help would be good

cheers

screwy

You dont need asump.

I pump grease into mine at the body every 6 months and any that goes thru gets seperated in the tank.

Bazzle

so ya reckon, just run the standard Air con compressor and drill a hole in the sump plug in the top and pump CHOCCAS full of grease with an oil seperator in the line??

screwy

OR filling it up with oil and running a seperator with a seperate line off this back into the intake to reserculate the oil???

help appreciated

screwy

Try the Sanden air comps of the Jeep TJ's and XJ's m8. They are self lubricating and should have the right mount for you. SOrry the model number escapes me at the moment.

thanks lexx,
At least now i have a car to look the pump up on.
its hard when u dont know exactly wat it is u want.....

screwy

Chrysler Sigmas have the Saden 508 compressor, with the pipes, cost me $40 when I had one

bogged wrote:Chrysler Sigmas have the Saden 508 compressor, with the pipes, cost me $40 when I had one

and they have the sump on them and are self lubricating?

screwy

Screwy_ScrewBall wrote:and they have the sump on them and are self lubricating?

Nope what do you expect for $40 though?

yeh spose, its just i was under the imression that the 'Sadan 508' model had a sump is all. if they have a sump they are self lubricating. if the 508 isnt like this then its no good to me.

Ive come up with another plan of attack.
Keen on ur opinions.

Gonna run the standard MQ aircon compressor, intake line going to a filter and output going to a tank with a pressure valve etc. But in the output line right at the start near the compressor im going to run a oil/air seperator and then run a capillery line off this back into a T-peice in the intake like of the compressor.
Once the compressor has the right amount of oil in it, this should continously push out, separate, and suck back in the oil to lubricate it.

Wat are ur opinions on this?

cheers

screwy

your last idea sounds the best so far. Otherwise just periodically inject some oil into the intake

An SD508 does not have a Sump. The only compressors that im aware of that have a sump are York and Toyoda Piston style pumps. These can be mounted on there side if this helps.

AFAIK there is no such thing as a "self lubricating" pump... they are lubed by the freon in the air con gas....
But i might be wrong...

You really want to try fit one with a sump... I know early Rangies used York compressors... That is what I have in my Rangie but i have converted it for air and ditched the air con

Ive been running an Endless air for over 6 years with no probs. Give it a pump of grease as above.
Doesnt need seperator. Any grease that gets thru settles in tank. Outlet at top.
Its a mod sd508.

Bazzle

pic of a York/Toyoda piston style pump

Those piston style pumps are no good to me, as i cant mount it anywhere......... Ive got no room!!!

I have 3 MQ aircon compressors here, 2 of em are 12volt and one is 24 volt.
the 2 12 volt ones have a very similar style of mounting bracket attached to them but are completely different pumps
one mounts just with the eyes on the outside of it, and the other mounts with eyes and with 2 bolts on the bottom of it. This style of pump is the type that WILL fit in the mounts i have.

( kingy, the one u gave me is the one that fits, the other one is similar to the one i left with u but has the correct bracketing so i know its off a patrol and not aftremarket fitted. )

the type that will fit in my brackets is the one i have to use, and it DOES appear to have a "belly" undernieth it!!! So i think it has a sump ( the one i got off u kingy!! ). This one has one problem ftting it up though......................

The inlet and outlet lines are not a thread and 'screw on the line' job, they are a type that has a flange and 2 bolts hold the hose down over the flange where the pipe fits to the compressor.....

Problem: How in gods name to i get an air pipe to fit on this type of connection??????
Im all ready to go apart from those fittings.......

ill take a pic tomoz of the pump and fittings.

thanks for the help so far,

screwy

RUFF wrote:An SD508 does not have a Sump. The only compressors that im aware of that have a sump are York and Toyoda Piston style pumps. These can be mounted on there side if this helps.

I think some Delco (A6, ect) compressors have sumps. These are plentifull and available in 12volt and 24 volt.....

Screwy
The bolt on flange holds an aluminium pipe? which is crimped to a flexi hose. Cut the hose and fit an oil type filter over it, ie K&N like racers use for engine breathers on their tappet covers.Oiling this periodically will lube the pump.Mount filter up out of the way.
On the HP side cut the ally pipe and put a brass ferrule fitting on it with a hose tail.You need good hose here ,especially if you don't run a pressure release ,as the hot air blows the hose.
J Top

J Top wrote:Screwy
The bolt on flange holds an aluminium pipe? which is crimped to a flexi hose. Cut the hose and fit an oil type filter over it, ie K&N like racers use for engine breathers on their tappet covers.Oiling this periodically will lube the pump.Mount filter up out of the way.
On the HP side cut the ally pipe and put a brass ferrule fitting on it with a hose tail.You need good hose here ,especially if you don't run a pressure release ,as the hot air blows the hose.
J Top

right, so i have to butcher my 2 aircon hoses that connect to it and to one fit a filter and to the other fit a flare and copper fitting somehow......
will think this one through today.

screwy

Screwy

Ive run a Sanden 508 for years as a compressor, and have had a few of the problems you are looking at.

The "sump" is the area under the rotating plate inside the compressor. Look for a bolt, about halfway down the body of the compressor. Unscrew this, and you should find an O ring fitted. You can then either pour some oil into this hole, or do as I do, "which is the same as endless air" and drill and tap a thread into the plug, and fit a grease nipple. This allows a few pumps of grease to be given to the bearing in the pump ever now and then.

As for fittings, use the standard pressed swaged AC hoses on the output side of the compressor. As previously stated, the air coming out is very hot, and will blow a standard hose, either weakening the hose itself, just past the barb, or blowing the hose off the barb regardless of how tight you have a clamp. I cut the AC hose off at about 4 ft long. I run this hose forward to an oil cooler mounted with both inlet and outlet fittings uppermost, in front of the radiator. This allows the air to cool, and some of the water and lubricant to pool at the bottom of the cooler. I then run to a tank, fitted with a pressure switch, and blow off valve.

This system is so good, that when I won an ARB compressor kit at the weekend country meeting at Kenilworth, I sold it, as it isnt as good as the AC compressor system.

BundyRumandCoke wrote:Screwy

Ive run a Sanden 508 for years as a compressor, and have had a few of the problems you are looking at.

The "sump" is the area under the rotating plate inside the compressor. Look for a bolt, about halfway down the body of the compressor. Unscrew this, and you should find an O ring fitted. You can then either pour some oil into this hole, or do as I do, "which is the same as endless air" and drill and tap a thread into the plug, and fit a grease nipple. This allows a few pumps of grease to be given to the bearing in the pump ever now and then.

As for fittings, use the standard pressed swaged AC hoses on the output side of the compressor. As previously stated, the air coming out is very hot, and will blow a standard hose, either weakening the hose itself, just past the barb, or blowing the hose off the barb regardless of how tight you have a clamp. I cut the AC hose off at about 4 ft long. I run this hose forward to an oil cooler mounted with both inlet and outlet fittings uppermost, in front of the radiator. This allows the air to cool, and some of the water and lubricant to pool at the bottom of the cooler. I then run to a tank, fitted with a pressure switch, and blow off valve.

This system is so good, that when I won an ARB compressor kit at the weekend country meeting at Kenilworth, I sold it, as it isnt as good as the AC compressor system.

mate, sounds like u have got it nutted out. Do u think i can get away with not using the oil cooler?
and what exactly is special about a sanden 508 air compressor over say a standard MQ air compressor if i setup the system the same?

screwy

Gday Jeff
The Sandon is the go, it is std on L300's and sigmas, runs 5 pistons on a swash plate, and can be greased.
Best way forward is for you to pull the end off your Nissan ones and if they have pistons, drill and tap a grease nipple hole in the body midway, you will find the air outlet can be tapped aswell to accept a pipe thread for a 1/4 hydraulic hose and nipple.
Then you can fit a water trap to catch excess grease, etc.
If it is the compresser with the inlet and outlet on the end, then you will have a piston compressor, however, if the outlet is along the body, it will be a vane and not worth the hastle.
Andrew

rightio so it needs to have the inlet and outlet on the end of the compressor not one on the side.
cool.

Screwy

Both inlet and outlets are on the side of my Sanden, but at the other end of the compressor from the pulley/clutch assembly.
You could use the system without the oil cooler, but it is a good idea to run some sort of water trap.
And not knowing the difference between an MQ compressor and a 508, I cant comment.

David

Take the time to replace the bearing behind the clutch assembly before you go to the trouble of putting the compressor in the car. Simple job to do and will only cost you around $20 for the bearing - it's worth the time if nothing else.

Putting a check valve in the line reduces the pressure at the outlet where the hose heats up.

Same deal as Bundyrumandcoke - I then run to a tank, pressure switch, and blow off valve. Also runsthe diff lock and rattle gun.

still a work in progress.

i reckon the sandan 508 is the way to go by the way u guys are talking, though the problem ive got is i cant fit it on my bracketing so ill have to modify the brackets.

ill get stuck in on sunday if im not too hung over from saturday night again

screwy