Outer Limits 4x4 Board

1st question: is it illigal to extend your bump stops in Qld?

2nd question: what is the best way to do it. im measuring tommorow but think i need anywhere between 30mm-50mm. (its on rear only)

pics of what people have done would be a big help.

cheers

just weld some rhs to the chassis and make it look pretty

Yes it is illegal in QLD but what isn't

Do it anyway.

coil or leaf?

some people i have heard they have floating bumpstops inside the springs

This is what i did on the back of my Pajero. So far they seem to work alright.



BTW, for those playing at home, they are Zook extended shackles. They just worked out to be perfect for my aplication

gumtree wrote:1st question: is it illigal to extend your bump stops in Qld?

2nd question: what is the best way to do it. im measuring tommorow but think i need anywhere between 30mm-50mm. (its on rear only)

pics of what people have done would be a big help.

cheers

work out a way you don't have to sacrifice uptravel?

fill the coils with tennis balls

Use GQ or for longer ones 80 series bumpstops.

Bazzle

Our Slinky long travel kits we use an alloy spacer and longer bolts, or 80 front compression rubbers in a new housing.



60mm version for 37's and A frame set up


80 front inner compression rubbers in our housings,

bad_religion_au wrote:

gumtree wrote:1st question: is it illigal to extend your bump stops in Qld?

2nd question: what is the best way to do it. im measuring tommorow but think i need anywhere between 30mm-50mm. (its on rear only)

pics of what people have done would be a big help.

cheers

work out a way you don't have to sacrifice uptravel?

Its not sacrificed uptravel, if without the extensions your tyres are hard up chewing against the guards...

I just used 75x50 RHS front and rear in the 40, worked well, but I would like to set something a little more "pretty" up sometime.

mike_nofx wrote:

bad_religion_au wrote:

gumtree wrote:1st question: is it illigal to extend your bump stops in Qld?

2nd question: what is the best way to do it. im measuring tommorow but think i need anywhere between 30mm-50mm. (its on rear only)

pics of what people have done would be a big help.

cheers

work out a way you don't have to sacrifice uptravel?

Its not sacrificed uptravel, if without the extensions your tyres are hard up chewing against the guards...

hence 'work out how to not sacrifice uptravel'

work out a way of getting the tires to fit in the guards at full uptravel

bad_religion_au wrote:

mike_nofx wrote:

bad_religion_au wrote:

gumtree wrote:1st question: is it illigal to extend your bump stops in Qld?

2nd question: what is the best way to do it. im measuring tommorow but think i need anywhere between 30mm-50mm. (its on rear only)

pics of what people have done would be a big help.

cheers

work out a way you don't have to sacrifice uptravel?

Its not sacrificed uptravel, if without the extensions your tyres are hard up chewing against the guards...

hence 'work out how to not sacrifice uptravel'

work out a way of getting the tires to fit in the guards at full uptravel

On a budget - bumpstops, longer shocks, longer springs.

Heres an example

Before you have 4" uptravel, which is 4" of clearance bumpstop to chassis (and for arguements sake 4" down, limited by shock) with stock suspension, but big tyres which rub.

After, you have 2" Spring lift, which gives 6" bumpstop clearance, reduced back to 4.5" with a 1.5" extension (So an increase). Longer shocks, which have a longer compressed length so require bump extensions anyway. But now with the longr shocks you have 6" downtravel.

Now tyres dont rub, you have 2" more body clearance, .5" more uptravel, 2" more downtravel. Not to mention the bump extensions now make your suspension work harder.

Whats your big problem with bumpstop extenions?

Also worth mentioning, on my landcruiser with 2" lift no matter how hard i flexed it up (and i had no sway bars) my front bumpstops never touched the diff. (I had no problems with tyre clearance on the front)

After extending the bumps so they could touch, i got more flex out of the front end.


Yes - there are flex arms, custom shock mounts etc... but not everyones made of money, or has good fab skills. Bumpstop extensions are a cheap effective system.

some rhs cut at an angle..

awsome thanks for the tips and pics there.

from looking the front bump stops are 30-50mm longer that the back. can i get some front ones from the wreckers and put them on the rear?

if not, can i pay someone in Brissy a little something to help make up and put in some bump stops for the rear. im not the best with fabing metal as i have no tools for this kind of thing.

Cheers.

If you use rhs, the minimum you would need for the job is a hacksaw (hard work I know, but cheap) a file or sandpaper to clean edges, and a drill with bits. Plus a can of spray paint. Can get all For not much coin at bunnings. Very handy to just have around anyway.

Plus a few bolts and some RHS.

1/2 hour to make. 20mins to fit.

the problem is that it is illigal and i want it to look at stock as possible so i dont get done for it.

mike_nofx wrote:
On a budget - bumpstops, longer shocks, longer springs.

Heres an example

Before you have 4" uptravel, which is 4" of clearance bumpstop to chassis (and for arguements sake 4" down, limited by shock) with stock suspension, but big tyres which rub.

After, you have 2" Spring lift, which gives 6" bumpstop clearance, reduced back to 4.5" with a 1.5" extension (So an increase). Longer shocks, which have a longer compressed length so require bump extensions anyway. But now with the longr shocks you have 6" downtravel.

Now tyres dont rub, you have 2" more body clearance, .5" more uptravel, 2" more downtravel. Not to mention the bump extensions now make your suspension work harder.

Whats your big problem with bumpstop extenions?

bodylift is cheaper, achieves the same result, maintains factory suspension geometry for better handling, less illegallity and lower COG. creative guard modification is even cheaper. your steeper link angles make a rig that is less likely to climb as well as a standard rig too.

longer shocks with taller guard towers can achieve more travel if that's whats requires, cheaper than a spring lift. no matter how you cut it, if you use the same length shock as you would in the lift, a standard height, non-stop extended rig gets more travel. you state "sure there are flex arms etc but not everyone is made of money" well going down the lift - longer shock- bumpstop route is the start of the "flex arm" route, because the lift is pushing the stock suspension geometry to it's limits, because your expecting it to have more overall droop to make up for the stop extentions.

and there is no guarentee that your links won't bind considering you've moved the whole resting suspension geometry down 2 inches THEN expect it to droop even further due to the longer shocks.

so in short, my problem is with lifts and people taking the easy way out when creativity can net you a much better working suspension. lower COG, factory ride height geometry, better anti-squat characteristics for climbing, and a less stand out looking rig on the streets are a good thing.

bumpstops aren't there to make your suspention work harder, and probably the reason your front wouldn't flex with the 2 inch lift and swaybars removed is because the roll stiffness front to rear was not evenly matched. by extending the bumpstops, you haven't solved the problem, you've masked it by forcing the front to work AFTER the rear has reached full uptravel (hitting the bumpstop pretty much changes rollstiffness to infinity), your rig won't be any more balanced, and the rear will be doing the work before the front (making for an unstable rig). even if your swaybars robbed you an inch or two in the rear (which well designed, shouldn't really rob much total flex at all), if they force your front to start flexing AT THE SAME TIME as the rear, the rig will perform much better offroad.

the reason i need bumpstops is that the longer shocks i got have a closed measurement of 380 which i need them to be approx 310 as this is the stock shocks closed measurement. i dont want to damage the shock or upper shock mount if it bottoms out.

the other alternative is get smaller shocks but this will comprimise my wheel travel and rancho only have certain sizes that are close but not exact.

gumtree wrote:the reason i need bumpstops is that the longer shocks i got have a closed measurement of 380 which i need them to be approx 310 as this is the stock shocks closed measurement. i dont want to damage the shock or upper shock mount if it bottoms out.

the other alternative is get smaller shocks but this will comprimise my wheel travel and rancho only have certain sizes that are close but not exact.

longer

shock

tower.

what are the open and closed shock eye to shock eye (or pin) measurements you need?

and why does it have to be rancho?

ideally i need
open: 540
closed: 300

this is in shock measurement language. in real life there is a 20mm bush there that adds 20mm to both these measurements so they will become 560mm and 320mm.

i went ranch because they are adjustable and i can adjust the ride quality. i didnt want to pay for a set of shocks and find out they were too hard. pay once with quality.

bad_religion_au wrote:

mike_nofx wrote:
On a budget - bumpstops, longer shocks, longer springs.

Heres an example

Before you have 4" uptravel, which is 4" of clearance bumpstop to chassis (and for arguements sake 4" down, limited by shock) with stock suspension, but big tyres which rub.

After, you have 2" Spring lift, which gives 6" bumpstop clearance, reduced back to 4.5" with a 1.5" extension (So an increase). Longer shocks, which have a longer compressed length so require bump extensions anyway. But now with the longr shocks you have 6" downtravel.

Now tyres dont rub, you have 2" more body clearance, .5" more uptravel, 2" more downtravel. Not to mention the bump extensions now make your suspension work harder.

Whats your big problem with bumpstop extenions?

bodylift is cheaper, achieves the same result, maintains factory suspension geometry for better handling, less illegallity and lower COG. creative guard modification is even cheaper. your steeper link angles make a rig that is less likely to climb as well as a standard rig too.

longer shocks with taller guard towers can achieve more travel if that's whats requires, cheaper than a spring lift. no matter how you cut it, if you use the same length shock as you would in the lift, a standard height, non-stop extended rig gets more travel. you state "sure there are flex arms etc but not everyone is made of money" well going down the lift - longer shock- bumpstop route is the start of the "flex arm" route, because the lift is pushing the stock suspension geometry to it's limits, because your expecting it to have more overall droop to make up for the stop extentions.

and there is no guarentee that your links won't bind considering you've moved the whole resting suspension geometry down 2 inches THEN expect it to droop even further due to the longer shocks.

so in short, my problem is with lifts and people taking the easy way out when creativity can net you a much better working suspension. lower COG, factory ride height geometry, better anti-squat characteristics for climbing, and a less stand out looking rig on the streets are a good thing.

bumpstops aren't there to make your suspention work harder, and probably the reason your front wouldn't flex with the 2 inch lift and swaybars removed is because the roll stiffness front to rear was not evenly matched. by extending the bumpstops, you haven't solved the problem, you've masked it by forcing the front to work AFTER the rear has reached full uptravel (hitting the bumpstop pretty much changes rollstiffness to infinity), your rig won't be any more balanced, and the rear will be doing the work before the front (making for an unstable rig). even if your swaybars robbed you an inch or two in the rear (which well designed, shouldn't really rob much total flex at all), if they force your front to start flexing AT THE SAME TIME as the rear, the rig will perform much better offroad.

This may all work well on bigger trucks, it is VERY well established that suzukis work very well with a small bump stop extension and make for a much more setteled drive. One of the quickest and easiest mods you can do it ditch the sway bar and even up the rate of flex front to rear.

love_mud wrote:
This may all work well on bigger trucks, it is VERY well established that suzukis work very well with a small bump stop extension and make for a much more setteled drive. One of the quickest and easiest mods you can do it ditch the sway bar and even up the rate of flex front to rear.

mike nofx has an 80 or 105 series.

bad_religion_au wrote:

love_mud wrote:
This may all work well on bigger trucks, it is VERY well established that suzukis work very well with a small bump stop extension and make for a much more setteled drive. One of the quickest and easiest mods you can do it ditch the sway bar and even up the rate of flex front to rear.

mike nofx has an 80 or 105 series.

gumtree .. the bloke who asked the question has sierra hence the reason for saying it works well on Suzukis

its for my vitara, 93 model. coil spring rear.

bad_religion_au wrote:

mike_nofx wrote:
On a budget - bumpstops, longer shocks, longer springs.

Heres an example

Before you have 4" uptravel, which is 4" of clearance bumpstop to chassis (and for arguements sake 4" down, limited by shock) with stock suspension, but big tyres which rub.

After, you have 2" Spring lift, which gives 6" bumpstop clearance, reduced back to 4.5" with a 1.5" extension (So an increase). Longer shocks, which have a longer compressed length so require bump extensions anyway. But now with the longr shocks you have 6" downtravel.

Now tyres dont rub, you have 2" more body clearance, .5" more uptravel, 2" more downtravel. Not to mention the bump extensions now make your suspension work harder.

Whats your big problem with bumpstop extenions?

bodylift is cheaper, achieves the same result, maintains factory suspension geometry for better handling, less illegallity and lower COG. creative guard modification is even cheaper. your steeper link angles make a rig that is less likely to climb as well as a standard rig too.

longer shocks with taller guard towers can achieve more travel if that's whats requires, cheaper than a spring lift. no matter how you cut it, if you use the same length shock as you would in the lift, a standard height, non-stop extended rig gets more travel. you state "sure there are flex arms etc but not everyone is made of money" well going down the lift - longer shock- bumpstop route is the start of the "flex arm" route, because the lift is pushing the stock suspension geometry to it's limits, because your expecting it to have more overall droop to make up for the stop extentions.

and there is no guarentee that your links won't bind considering you've moved the whole resting suspension geometry down 2 inches THEN expect it to droop even further due to the longer shocks.

so in short, my problem is with lifts and people taking the easy way out when creativity can net you a much better working suspension. lower COG, factory ride height geometry, better anti-squat characteristics for climbing, and a less stand out looking rig on the streets are a good thing.

bumpstops aren't there to make your suspention work harder, and probably the reason your front wouldn't flex with the 2 inch lift and swaybars removed is because the roll stiffness front to rear was not evenly matched. by extending the bumpstops, you haven't solved the problem, you've masked it by forcing the front to work AFTER the rear has reached full uptravel (hitting the bumpstop pretty much changes rollstiffness to infinity), your rig won't be any more balanced, and the rear will be doing the work before the front (making for an unstable rig). even if your swaybars robbed you an inch or two in the rear (which well designed, shouldn't really rob much total flex at all), if they force your front to start flexing AT THE SAME TIME as the rear, the rig will perform much better offroad.

It all depends on what springs you are running in the first place. There is nothing wrong with lowering bumpstops, and in fact, it should be considered with springs above 50mm lift. Making the springs invert more than they should will pose more of a detrement to vehicle handling down the track than adding bumpstop extensions ever will. Also, lifted coil springs above 50mm should be checked and measured that they don't go 'solid' before hitting the bumpstop. I have never seen any harm come from extending bumpstops a little.

they are custom 50mm lift coils, they actually lifted the car 60mm but that could be could my old springs were saggy 10mm.

Joe blow, the bump stops on the front are longer than the rears, can i get a pair of fronts and put them in the rear. im assuming they simply screw in?

Mine had to be lowered 75mm to stop the longer travel shocks from bottoming out.

gumtree wrote:they are custom 50mm lift coils, they actually lifted the car 60mm but that could be could my old springs were saggy 10mm.

Joe blow, the bump stops on the front are longer than the rears, can i get a pair of fronts and put them in the rear. im assuming they simply screw in?

if its a vit than yes you can.