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TD42T with eletric injector pump. witch wires make it go
Posted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 8:40 pm
by extra niss
hay everyone
i just got a GU witch is half converted to a TD42T ( the very later modal one factory intercooled) and it has 3 wires coming out if the pump and 2 wires going into a solenoid or senser in the bottom of the pump.
i have been told i need to put power to 2 of the wires to make it go. but i have no idea witch 2 wires. anyone dune it before or can help me out
Posted: Mon Apr 26, 2010 6:15 pm
by PGS 4WD
That is the immobilizer model pump. I cant' remember which wire, it's one of the three. If there is a red one that rings a bell?? Sorry thats all I can recall.
joel
Posted: Mon Apr 26, 2010 7:22 pm
by extra niss
thanks heeps mate that gives me some where to start
Posted: Tue Apr 27, 2010 8:47 am
by Dzltec
You will need to remove the immobilizer unit. It receives a signal from a main control unit to make it start. If you have all the modules and wiring then all should be ok if connected correctly.
Andy
Posted: Tue Apr 27, 2010 5:31 pm
by extra niss
Dzltec wrote:You will need to remove the immobilizer unit. It receives a signal from a main control unit to make it start. If you have all the modules and wiring then all should be ok if connected correctly.
Andy
i havn't got the computers and wiring for the immobilizer is there any way around it or have i got to change the pump or part of the pump
Posted: Tue Apr 27, 2010 5:50 pm
by UGOTNUFN
extra niss wrote:Dzltec wrote:You will need to remove the immobilizer unit. It receives a signal from a main control unit to make it start. If you have all the modules and wiring then all should be ok if connected correctly.
Andy
i havn't got the computers and wiring for the immobilizer is there any way around it or have i got to change the pump or part of the pump
You will also need to power up the TCV (Timing Control Valve) at the bottom of the pump,normally a boost sensitive switch is the best way to switch it on and off.
Posted: Tue Apr 27, 2010 6:23 pm
by Dzltec
The immobilser can be removed, however it is difficult to do as the use sheer bolts to locate it. Having a timing control valve throws a spanner in the works as it will make the pump have full advance at all times. It usually recieves a duty cycle controoled voltage to control the opening time which controls how much injection advance you have. This can be changed to a mechanical system but involves changing the main housing.
Andy
Posted: Wed Apr 28, 2010 11:27 am
by sw1
UGOTNUFN wrote:
You will also need to power up the TCV (Timing Control Valve) at the bottom of the pump,normally a boost sensitive switch is the best way to switch it on and off.
??
its pulse width modulated, a on off switch isnt going to do much here.
Posted: Wed Apr 28, 2010 12:28 pm
by giantracing
put a hoob switch in the cooler to turn on and off using boost pressure, it makes a big difference when driving..... but with out using it , it will still start... we modify these on late model gu's...
Posted: Wed Apr 28, 2010 5:08 pm
by UGOTNUFN
sw1 wrote:UGOTNUFN wrote:
You will also need to power up the TCV (Timing Control Valve) at the bottom of the pump,normally a boost sensitive switch is the best way to switch it on and off.
??
its pulse width modulated, a on off switch isnt going to do much here.
On and off with a Hobbs switch set to 3Psi is fine
Posted: Wed Apr 28, 2010 6:17 pm
by extra niss
ok thanks heaps everyone that has been a big help
Posted: Thu Apr 29, 2010 10:37 pm
by PGS 4WD
I got one going that had failed in the immobilizer just with a voltage at one of those three wires, possible because the unit was faulty. It's worth a try.
Joel
Posted: Fri Apr 30, 2010 6:50 am
by extra niss
i drilled the illommobiliser off yesterday and exposesed the fuel cut solenoid. to ezy
somthing went right for a change