Outer Limits 4x4 Board

How much are people paying to get their beadlock inner ring welded to their rims? it's something i'd rather not DIY, then have to stuff about with tires constantly going down.

just trying to pin down an estimate on what it'll cost to get some beadlocks (not just the cost of the weld on kit, been looking at roctoy's)

cant really stuff it up, just keep welding till it builds up, than grind back smooth.

i normally do it for a bottle of rum, mates rates.

Depend if you want it welded up well or just welded on. The inner ring can be welded on slightly of center, this will cause the wheel to be out balance. The ring can distort slightly causing high spots. Would also be prefable to keep the weld size even for strength and balance of wheel. The weld on rings are sometimes made up of two halves welded together, these can be pretty badly alligned sometimes. These will need to be cut and rewelded.
Yes you can just weld them on and get a reasonable result but with a little of time of care the wheel ends up fairly well balanced and less likely leak. Would consider these points before going with the cheapest quote.

UNLUCKY wrote:cant really stuff it up, just keep welding till it builds up, than grind back smooth.

i normally do it for a bottle of rum, mates rates.

Ive seen hundreds of these leak over my years and most were done by guys that beileived It cant really be stuffed up.

You should be able to weld the rings on with one continuous run and not have to grind it back at all. But if you cant weld to save your life than dont bother at all.

AFeral wrote:Depend if you want it welded up well or just welded on. The inner ring can be welded on slightly of center, this will cause the wheel to be out balance. The ring can distort slightly causing high spots. Would also be prefable to keep the weld size even for strength and balance of wheel. The weld on rings are sometimes made up of two halves welded together, these can be pretty badly alligned sometimes. These will need to be cut and rewelded.
Yes you can just weld them on and get a reasonable result but with a little of time of care the wheel ends up fairly well balanced and less likely leak. Would consider these points before going with the cheapest quote.

With a beadlock ring like Roctoys there is very little chance of ever welding them off centre thay are a one piece inner ring and cut to the same diameter as the rim. As long as the ring has been tac welded in enough places before starting to weld warping should not really be an issue. Also Who Balances mechanical beadlocks? They are not for onroad use.

RUFF wrote:

UNLUCKY wrote:cant really stuff it up, just keep welding till it builds up, than grind back smooth.

i normally do it for a bottle of rum, mates rates.

Ive seen hundreds of these leak over my years and most were done by guys that beileived It cant really be stuffed up.

You should be able to weld the rings on with one continuous run and not have to grind it back at all. But if you cant weld to save your life than dont bother at all.

i have seen a few leak, but mainly due to not having a coning ring. all the ones i've done/made havn't had any drama's with the beadlock, only one rim leaked from the value hole that wasn't cleaned up before welding.

I paid a wheel works to weld my beadlocks on, they all leaked to some degee. a smear of urathane on the face fixed all the problems and they have been good since
paid $30 each to weld

RUFF wrote:

AFeral wrote:Depend if you want it welded up well or just welded on. The inner ring can be welded on slightly of center, this will cause the wheel to be out balance. The ring can distort slightly causing high spots. Would also be prefable to keep the weld size even for strength and balance of wheel. The weld on rings are sometimes made up of two halves welded together, these can be pretty badly alligned sometimes. These will need to be cut and rewelded.
Yes you can just weld them on and get a reasonable result but with a little of time of care the wheel ends up fairly well balanced and less likely leak. Would consider these points before going with the cheapest quote.

With a beadlock ring like Roctoys there is very little chance of ever welding them off centre thay are a one piece inner ring and cut to the same diameter as the rim. As long as the ring has been tac welded in enough places before starting to weld warping should not really be an issue. Also Who Balances mechanical beadlocks? They are not for onroad use.

Correct there not for road use, having ridden in a fourby with badly fitted beadlocks. Was unpleasant at 80km cruising between sections of bush. So why not fit them accuratly as possible ?
Have not fitted a pair of Roctoys rings, they do look nice though.

Recomend roctoys locks Bolsy welded them on today fit like a glove and solid as 6mm inner and outer rings,be quick thou last chance to grab ring for a while.

ajsr wrote:I paid a wheel works to weld my beadlocks on, they all leaked to some degee. a smear of urathane on the face fixed all the problems and they have been good since
paid $30 each to weld

thank you, that quote is heaps cheaper than i expected! i was budgeting around 200+ to get 4 welded on. good news.

now the question is, do i get the offset changed at the same time (i know it's got nothing to do with fitting the inner lock ring, but while they're at the wheel works, why not)

Lock rings will effectively widen your rim by 1" approx
But if you still need to get the offset changed, then yes, get it done at the same time.

Big_GQ wrote:Recomend roctoys locks Bolsy welded them on today fit like a glove and solid as 6mm inner and outer rings,be quick thou last chance to grab ring for a while.

X2 on RocToy's beadlocks.

Picked mine up from him on Monday - pure filth. These locks look awesome and they are chunk.

bad_religion_au wrote:

ajsr wrote:I paid a wheel works to weld my beadlocks on, they all leaked to some degee. a smear of urathane on the face fixed all the problems and they have been good since
paid $30 each to weld

thank you, that quote is heaps cheaper than i expected! i was budgeting around 200+ to get 4 welded on. good news.

now the question is, do i get the offset changed at the same time (i know it's got nothing to do with fitting the inner lock ring, but while they're at the wheel works, why not)

be careful how you are getting the offset changed because you will not be able to sucessfuly use weld on beadlocks on rims that have been flipped.

Roctoy Designfab wrote:

bad_religion_au wrote:

ajsr wrote:I paid a wheel works to weld my beadlocks on, they all leaked to some degee. a smear of urathane on the face fixed all the problems and they have been good since
paid $30 each to weld

thank you, that quote is heaps cheaper than i expected! i was budgeting around 200+ to get 4 welded on. good news.

now the question is, do i get the offset changed at the same time (i know it's got nothing to do with fitting the inner lock ring, but while they're at the wheel works, why not)

be careful how you are getting the offset changed because you will not be able to sucessfuly use weld on beadlocks on rims that have been flipped.

not being smart, just curious, why is that??
without looking at a steel rim, arent 4x4 rims JJ so the same on both edges?

80's_delirious wrote:

Roctoy Designfab wrote:

bad_religion_au wrote:

ajsr wrote:I paid a wheel works to weld my beadlocks on, they all leaked to some degee. a smear of urathane on the face fixed all the problems and they have been good since
paid $30 each to weld

thank you, that quote is heaps cheaper than i expected! i was budgeting around 200+ to get 4 welded on. good news.

now the question is, do i get the offset changed at the same time (i know it's got nothing to do with fitting the inner lock ring, but while they're at the wheel works, why not)

be careful how you are getting the offset changed because you will not be able to sucessfuly use weld on beadlocks on rims that have been flipped.

not being smart, just curious, why is that??
without looking at a steel rim, arent 4x4 rims JJ so the same on both edges?

pretty sure the inner edge of the rim is different. i know alot of guys get their rims flipped as the inner edge (then becoming the outer) apparently holds the bead better. roctoy would know better than me tho !

Roctoy Designfab wrote:

bad_religion_au wrote:

ajsr wrote:I paid a wheel works to weld my beadlocks on, they all leaked to some degee. a smear of urathane on the face fixed all the problems and they have been good since
paid $30 each to weld

thank you, that quote is heaps cheaper than i expected! i was budgeting around 200+ to get 4 welded on. good news.

now the question is, do i get the offset changed at the same time (i know it's got nothing to do with fitting the inner lock ring, but while they're at the wheel works, why not)

be careful how you are getting the offset changed because you will not be able to sucessfuly use weld on beadlocks on rims that have been flipped.

yep, i was going to make sure they weren't getting flipped if i was getting the offset changed.

I know beadlocks aren't for road use blah blah blah.
But what are peoples exprences of ballancing up roctoys beadlocks
can you still manage to ballance up you tires and rims ok ?

Steve, you can only really put weights on the inside of the rim for balancing once you've fully welded a ring to the outside.

As for why you can't really beadlock (well this way anyway) a rim that's been flipped?
Normally when you air down and lose the bead off the rim, it's on the outside edge. The surface area where the tire sits, on this side, is between 15 & 20mm wide (basically the width of the bead of the tire.)
The width of the surface area on the inside is around twice this. So you mechanically beadlock the outside to stop this from happening.

Once you flip the rims and re-weld them with the bigger offset, if you beadlock the outside of the wheel, you would be wasting your time as you will just continually drop the bead off the other side.(now on the inside of the truck)
You could just lock the inside of the wheels, but this would probably foul with the brake callipers and would just look wierd...

I hope that explained it ok.

yeah, makes sense, cheers

Roctoy Designfab wrote:Steve, you can only really put weights on the inside of the rim for balancing once you've fully welded a ring to the outside.

As for why you can't really beadlock (well this way anyway) a rim that's been flipped?
Normally when you air down and lose the bead off the rim, it's on the outside edge. The surface area where the tire sits, on this side, is between 15 & 20mm wide (basically the width of the bead of the tire.)
The width of the surface area on the inside is around twice this. So you mechanically beadlock the outside to stop this from happening.

Once you flip the rims and re-weld them with the bigger offset, if you beadlock the outside of the wheel, you would be wasting your time as you will just continually drop the bead off the other side.(now on the inside of the truck)
You could just lock the inside of the wheels, but this would probably foul with the brake callipers and would just look wierd...

I hope that explained it ok.

what about hammer on weights on the inside and stick on weights behind the beadlock on the outside ?

Have a look at some of the rigs the USA guys build up. When using beadlocks they will often put a bag of ball bearings inside the tyre so that it balances itself. They claim to get good results. (not condoning reccomending this method its just something ive seen)

Cheers

noodle wrote:Have a look at some of the rigs the USA guys build up. When using beadlocks they will often put a bag of ball bearings inside the tyre so that it balances itself. They claim to get good results. (not condoning reccomending this method its just something ive seen)

Cheers

yeah there are a couple of companies in Australia selling ballancing compounds, not sure on how successful they actually are though.

Chris

I just fitted up my Roctoy beadlocks.. they look sik.. havent driven on them as yet, but I used a bit of sika on the bead to help prevent leaks...

also my old locks, we balanced them by using stick on weights and also we put nuts on the rear of the lock bolts where more weight was required.. worked pretty good!