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Adjustments after 1HZ Turbo fit.

Posted: Sun Apr 25, 2010 8:59 pm
by GUEEY
Just fitted up a DTS/MTQ turbo kit on my 105 series 1HZ.
All went well and fitted up nice.
the instructions say Adjust fuel pump screw 1/4 turn inwards.
And set boost for 10 psi max.
I am taking it to Dieseltec(Andy) for a pro tune next week.

1. where is the fuel screw on the fuel pump.
2. How is the boost adjusted, it is at 6 psi at the momment.

I will be fitting pyro and boost gauge tomorrow.

I want to get it drivable untill it goes in for its tune.

Thanks

Grant.

Posted: Sun Apr 25, 2010 9:21 pm
by 80's_delirious
the fuel screw is on the rear of the pump, up high near the throttle arm. you will need a 12mm spanner to undo the locknut and a screw driver to adjust it.
You may have to remove a wire 'seal' from the screw before adjusting it.

It should be fine as is until you take it to Dieseltec.

Posted: Sun Apr 25, 2010 9:26 pm
by GUEEY
80's_delirious wrote:the fuel screw is on the rear of the pump, up high near the throttle arm. you will need a 12mm spanner to undo the locknut and a screw driver to adjust it.
You may have to remove a wire 'seal' from the screw before adjusting it.

It should be fine as is until you take it to Dieseltec.
So i cant hurt anything if i leave it "As is" untill its tuned?

Posted: Sun Apr 25, 2010 9:44 pm
by 80's_delirious
No. it wont produce as much power as it will once the fuel is turned up, but it will be fine.
Your trousers might bulge a little more after it is tuned :lol:

Posted: Mon Apr 26, 2010 9:07 am
by GUEEY
80's_delirious wrote:No. it wont produce as much power as it will once the fuel is turned up, but it will be fine.
Your trousers might bulge a little more after it is tuned :lol:
It goes much better already :) :)

Posted: Mon Apr 26, 2010 7:34 pm
by howesy
You could take it in another quarter of a turn and it still wouldnt hurt until they do it for you and that will get it boosting higher as well in most instances where the fuel is a bit lean, try the extra quarter and if you dont like it or its blowing black smoke its easy to turn it back out again. Most seem to end up half to three quarters a turn by the time they are finished.

Posted: Tue Apr 27, 2010 11:44 am
by T_Diesel
GUEEY wrote: It goes much better already :) :)
Wait till you fit a boost compensator and 3" mandrel exhaust and it will go even better!

I've also got a Nissan bonnet scoop on mine above the intercooler for better induction.

Posted: Tue Apr 27, 2010 9:17 pm
by knuckle
How much was the kit?
Knuck

Posted: Wed Apr 28, 2010 9:16 pm
by GUEEY
knuckle wrote:How much was the kit?
Knuck
Got it second hand, done 500klms, $700.00

Grant.

Posted: Thu Apr 29, 2010 8:45 am
by T_Diesel
GUEEY wrote:
knuckle wrote:How much was the kit?
Knuck
Got it second hand, done 500klms, $700.00

Grant.
That's a good deal! :lol:

What a bargain. That means you must have a few spare $$$ now to do the rest of the mods!

Posted: Thu Apr 29, 2010 6:57 pm
by GUEEY
T_Diesel wrote:
GUEEY wrote:
knuckle wrote:How much was the kit?
Knuck
Got it second hand, done 500klms, $700.00

Grant.
That's a good deal! :lol:

What a bargain. That means you must have a few spare $$$ now to do the rest of the mods!
The good deals keep coming!
Just got is back from the exhaust shop.
3 inch mandrel system with short straight through muffler, fitted $560 :)
Plenty of change to get a good tune and a intercooler.

Grant.

Posted: Fri Apr 30, 2010 11:54 am
by T_Diesel
GUEEY wrote:
T_Diesel wrote:
GUEEY wrote:
knuckle wrote:How much was the kit?
Knuck
Got it second hand, done 500klms, $700.00

Grant.
That's a good deal! :lol:

What a bargain. That means you must have a few spare $$$ now to do the rest of the mods!
The good deals keep coming!
Just got is back from the exhaust shop.
3 inch mandrel system with short straight through muffler, fitted $560 :)
Plenty of change to get a good tune and a intercooler.

Grant.
How did you go with the Pyro install? Have you got that done yet and what type of gauges did you go for?

Posted: Fri Apr 30, 2010 5:07 pm
by GUEEY
T_Diesel wrote:
GUEEY wrote:
T_Diesel wrote:
GUEEY wrote:
knuckle wrote:How much was the kit?
Knuck
Got it second hand, done 500klms, $700.00

Grant.
That's a good deal! :lol:

What a bargain. That means you must have a few spare $$$ now to do the rest of the mods!
The good deals keep coming!
Just got is back from the exhaust shop.
3 inch mandrel system with short straight through muffler, fitted $560 :)
Plenty of change to get a good tune and a intercooler.

Grant.
How did you go with the Pyro install? Have you got that done yet and what type of gauges did you go for?
All good.
Bought the VDO Pyro and probe kit.
After looking at all the options on fitting it pre turbo, i ended up fitting it post turbo right next to the flange plate, the problem i had pre turbo was the divider in the exhaust manifold, i could only read 3 cylinders and there was no tappable location in the snail shell before the turbine.
I am getting it tuned up next week.

Grant

Posted: Fri Apr 30, 2010 5:21 pm
by dogbreath_48
GUEEY wrote:... the problem i had pre turbo was the divider in the exhaust manifold, i could only read 3 cylinders...
So a bit like this
Image

Does the probe favour one end to the other? This is how mine is installed - no problems over the last two years but my EGT's do seem low.

Posted: Fri Apr 30, 2010 5:37 pm
by GUEEY
dogbreath_48 wrote:
GUEEY wrote:... the problem i had pre turbo was the divider in the exhaust manifold, i could only read 3 cylinders...
So a bit like this
Image

Does the probe favour one end to the other? This is how mine is installed - no problems over the last two years but my EGT's do seem low.
Problem with the above idea, Prob measures temp at the tip !
It would still only read accurate temp in the section were the tip is located.
All thermocouples J type or K type ( the most common international standard) use to dissimalar metals ie Nickel & iron or iron & copper, giving a milli volt reading, this happens at the point of the two conductors crossing over ( the twist point ) that is always at the end of the prob.
Sorry to get technical, i work with this stuff every day in the injection molding industry were thermocouples are used to measure accurate melt tempreture.

Cheers

Grant.

Posted: Fri Apr 30, 2010 5:42 pm
by dogbreath_48
GUEEY wrote:
dogbreath_48 wrote:
GUEEY wrote:... the problem i had pre turbo was the divider in the exhaust manifold, i could only read 3 cylinders...
So a bit like this
*gigantic pcture*

Does the probe favour one end to the other? This is how mine is installed - no problems over the last two years but my EGT's do seem low.
Problem with the above idea, Prob measures temp at the tip !
It would still only read accurate temp in the section were the tip is located.
All thermocouples J type or K type ( the most common international standard) use to dissimalar metals ie Nickel & iron or iron & copper, giving a milli volt reading, this happens at the point of the two conductors crossing over ( the twist point ) that is always at the end of the prob.
Sorry to get technical, i work with this stuff every day in the injection molding industry were thermocouples are used to measure accurate melt tempreture.

Cheers

Grant.
Thanks for the information, that's (not!) what i wanted to know ;)

Posted: Fri Apr 30, 2010 5:51 pm
by GUEEY
dogbreath_48 wrote:
GUEEY wrote:
dogbreath_48 wrote:
GUEEY wrote:... the problem i had pre turbo was the divider in the exhaust manifold, i could only read 3 cylinders...
So a bit like this
*gigantic pcture*

Does the probe favour one end to the other? This is how mine is installed - no problems over the last two years but my EGT's do seem low.
Problem with the above idea, Prob measures temp at the tip !
It would still only read accurate temp in the section were the tip is located.
All thermocouples J type or K type ( the most common international standard) use to dissimalar metals ie Nickel & iron or iron & copper, giving a milli volt reading, this happens at the point of the two conductors crossing over ( the twist point ) that is always at the end of the prob.
Sorry to get technical, i work with this stuff every day in the injection molding industry were thermocouples are used to measure accurate melt tempreture.

Cheers

Grant.
Thanks for the information, that's (not!) what i wanted to know ;)
At least you are still getting a true temp reading were it is closer to the piston and cylinders, in theroy the temp in 1 half of the divider should be the same in the other half, i was running out of time and i was unsure about affecting the casing of the manifold, if i weakened it by drilling holes in it!

Grant

Posted: Sat May 01, 2010 7:52 pm
by dogbreath_48
GUEEY wrote:...in theory...
exactly ;)

Posted: Sun May 02, 2010 11:19 am
by T_Diesel
Where did you mount the gauges? Can you put up a photo?

Posted: Sun May 02, 2010 1:05 pm
by GUEEY
T_Diesel wrote:Where did you mount the gauges? Can you put up a photo?
Gauges are mounted temporary at the momment.
Will fit them into a A pillar pod once it has been tuned up.

Grant.