Hey folks, hopefully an easy couple of q's for you here, especially if someone has the workshop manual.
Vehicle is a Petrol '82 MQ with tail shaft mounted handbrake drum. I reefed up the hand brake the other day and it snapped. No tension left in handle and no stoppage at wheels. The cable is still visible going into the outer from the hand brake itself though, so the break is either inside the outer or in the drum itself. I figure I need to get into the drum to have a lookee see.
I pulled the drive shaft off the drum, and managed to get the two rubber plugs out of the drum so I could have a squiz with the torch. Couldn't see much through the little holes, so I guess the next job is to undo the nut in the centre that is revealed by the removal of the driveshaft. Is that right?
Does anyone know what size it is? I certainly don't have a socket that big (24mm is as high as I go at the moment) so I'll be going shopping tomorrow at this stage, looking for a 32mm socket I think.
I noticed that apart from the tube coming down from the hand brake and into the bottom of the drum, there is also another tube coming out of the top and running up towards the engine bay. I actually forgot to trace it, so anyone wanna fill me on what that is?
Finally, a search showed a bunch of half explanations on handbrake adjustment for various models, but nothing complete for the MQ. Seeing as I'll most likely be needing to adjust the brake once it's fixed (it was very due anyway), does anyone know a good method?
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Handbrake cable replacement
Handbrake cable replacement
* Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool *
After you remove the nut, check the seal is OK too.
When cable fitted adj bottom adjuster so drum just binds, then adj cable at top for about 4 clicks, then back off drum until it just touches, pull on handbrake between adj to centre shoes.
Readj a top after a couple of weeks to take up cable stretch then you should only ever need to adj at drum.
(put a little grease on shoe slides and adj thread.)
bazzle
When cable fitted adj bottom adjuster so drum just binds, then adj cable at top for about 4 clicks, then back off drum until it just touches, pull on handbrake between adj to centre shoes.
Readj a top after a couple of weeks to take up cable stretch then you should only ever need to adj at drum.
(put a little grease on shoe slides and adj thread.)
bazzle
You don't need to remove the nut in the centre for the drum, after you have removed the tailshaft the drum should just slide off the 4 studs. Nothing else holds it on.
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[url=http://www.drfwdc.org.au/]Dandenong Ranges 4wd Club[/url][/size]
[url=http://www.drfwdc.org.au/]Dandenong Ranges 4wd Club[/url][/size]
ozy1 wrote:MKPatrolGuy wrote:You don't need to remove the nut in the centre for the drum, after you have removed the tailshaft the drum should just slide off the 4 studs. Nothing else holds it on.
that is right, just slides off like an ordinary drum brake
when doing my swap I undid the tailshaft and slid it off and the drum came with it. Had a mongrel of a time getting the drum off the shaft
[size=100][url=http://www.vickrawlers.com/]VicKrawlers.com[/url]
[url=http://www.drfwdc.org.au/]Dandenong Ranges 4wd Club[/url][/size]
[url=http://www.drfwdc.org.au/]Dandenong Ranges 4wd Club[/url][/size]
Thanks guys - very handy advice indeed! I would have felt the right royal fool trying to track down a socket only to find it didn't help. I originally thought it must all slide off once the shaft is off, but it wasn't budging. A few taps with the shifter and off she came.
So I have the cable out, and sure enough it had snapped half way down inside the outer. Looks like a bit of water must have worked its way in there as it had rusted/rotted at the break. Now what do I do? Ring around wreckers? Getting the cable out of the drum is a bit of a job - the split ring thing that held the end inside the drum happened to be fairly FUBAR and came off easily for me. Can you actually get the cable and outer separate?
So I have the cable out, and sure enough it had snapped half way down inside the outer. Looks like a bit of water must have worked its way in there as it had rusted/rotted at the break. Now what do I do? Ring around wreckers? Getting the cable out of the drum is a bit of a job - the split ring thing that held the end inside the drum happened to be fairly FUBAR and came off easily for me. Can you actually get the cable and outer separate?
* Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool *
Thanks heaps for the tips. Now for a round up:
The old cable did run a little bit close to the exhaust. The new one is actually about 75mm shorter and clears the exhaust by a bit further, so hopefully it'll be okay. Looking again, the old cable really isn't that rusted. More like it rotted slightly from the inside out.
New cable from Nissan was quite dear! Quoted at $181, best I could do was around $166. Eventually got a second hand one for $45, although it did have a bit of a split in the outer - hope there's not too much sh!t inside already! Seemed otherwise in good nick. I used the old split ring by bending it back into a useable shape and packing it in nice and tight.
Good tips on adjustment. It was a massive struggle getting the drum all back together though. Bah, the hardest bit, after slipping all the tight springs over their respective stays, was clamping the two retaining springs through the drum halves. At first (and for almost an hour of pushing, swearing and fumbling), I had one of the containing washers in the wrong spot (behind the drum instead of behind the spring), so luckily it was too tight to go on. Once I put a containing washer on either side of the spring, I had an extra couple of mils and a with whole lot more squeezing and swearing, managed to get the flat section on the end of the stalk through the slit in the outermost containing washer. A rushed twist with the pliers and I had it locked. The other one took almost as long.
I then had a bit of trouble because the adjustment screw was stuck (I had greased it, but then wound it the wrong way too tight) so I had to take the drum off again. Luckily I managed to get the adjustment barrel out without removing any springs by jamming a socket between one pad and the drum and using a screwdriver to push the other side away. Finally I had it all set up ready for adjustment.
Spinning the adjustment barrel through that little bloody hole is a hassle, particular when it is pressed up against the spring which is working against it. Eventually, with a torch and a screwdriver, I had the pads just rubbing on the drums. I tried the handbrake and at 6 clicks I couldn't spin the rear wheel forward by hand, but annoyingly, spinning it backwards wasn't so hard. I adjusted the drums a bit further so the wheel was very hard to turn after 3 clicks, but the pads rubbed quite a bit, and went for a quick drive. The handbrake was awesome, and would even hold on an steep uphill after a few clicks. I thought it might be a bit too sensitive so got under once again to back it off a bit. But I was pleased to find there was no rubbing at all when I got back under, so I actually tightened the drums a smidgen further, and left it at that.
I am handbraking once again! Pretty scary how easily the handbrake can lock the MT/R's on the dirt now - don't want to put that much load on the system too often.
The old cable did run a little bit close to the exhaust. The new one is actually about 75mm shorter and clears the exhaust by a bit further, so hopefully it'll be okay. Looking again, the old cable really isn't that rusted. More like it rotted slightly from the inside out.
New cable from Nissan was quite dear! Quoted at $181, best I could do was around $166. Eventually got a second hand one for $45, although it did have a bit of a split in the outer - hope there's not too much sh!t inside already! Seemed otherwise in good nick. I used the old split ring by bending it back into a useable shape and packing it in nice and tight.
Good tips on adjustment. It was a massive struggle getting the drum all back together though. Bah, the hardest bit, after slipping all the tight springs over their respective stays, was clamping the two retaining springs through the drum halves. At first (and for almost an hour of pushing, swearing and fumbling), I had one of the containing washers in the wrong spot (behind the drum instead of behind the spring), so luckily it was too tight to go on. Once I put a containing washer on either side of the spring, I had an extra couple of mils and a with whole lot more squeezing and swearing, managed to get the flat section on the end of the stalk through the slit in the outermost containing washer. A rushed twist with the pliers and I had it locked. The other one took almost as long.
I then had a bit of trouble because the adjustment screw was stuck (I had greased it, but then wound it the wrong way too tight) so I had to take the drum off again. Luckily I managed to get the adjustment barrel out without removing any springs by jamming a socket between one pad and the drum and using a screwdriver to push the other side away. Finally I had it all set up ready for adjustment.
Spinning the adjustment barrel through that little bloody hole is a hassle, particular when it is pressed up against the spring which is working against it. Eventually, with a torch and a screwdriver, I had the pads just rubbing on the drums. I tried the handbrake and at 6 clicks I couldn't spin the rear wheel forward by hand, but annoyingly, spinning it backwards wasn't so hard. I adjusted the drums a bit further so the wheel was very hard to turn after 3 clicks, but the pads rubbed quite a bit, and went for a quick drive. The handbrake was awesome, and would even hold on an steep uphill after a few clicks. I thought it might be a bit too sensitive so got under once again to back it off a bit. But I was pleased to find there was no rubbing at all when I got back under, so I actually tightened the drums a smidgen further, and left it at that.
I am handbraking once again! Pretty scary how easily the handbrake can lock the MT/R's on the dirt now - don't want to put that much load on the system too often.
* Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool *
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