Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hey guys im new here and need some help.
i have just bought a 97 gls pajero and awaiting arrival.
what i wanna do is lift it and fit some bigger tires.
i have read a few bits on here and hav decided to do a 2" body lift and 2'' suspention lift in the rear.
Will i need bigger shocks for the rear?
whats this about using GU/GQ springs- how big high will it go?
Can i use the torrtion bar in the front to bring it up to match my 2" lifted rear and cut the bump stops?
and can i do strut spaces too?

Also i can get my hands on some centapeide tires cheap and sunnys for $49 each. what offset do i need to ask for to fit a 33" tire and how wide can i go?

if any of you can help me out it will be greatly appreciated thanks in advance
spencer

Pajeros dont run struts .. so no strut spacers
The 97 is a 3.5 from memory, so will already have a factory "bodylift" .. You only ever runas much lift as is nessecary in my opinion, any more is wank value .. others (with big lifts) may have a different opinion

33's should fit with a small lift, 2 inches should do it .. How wide you can go is up to you the wider you go will affect bearing life, steering components etc I would not bother with anything wider than a 12.5 and honestly would prefer to go narrower something like a 285/75 16 about a 33 x 11 a 33x12.5 gives a very square footprint, a longer footprint will give you better forward traction ..( in slick conditons) a 12.5 may work well for you if sand etc is your thing.

thanks love mud. the car is a 2.8 turbo diesel and arrives next week so i have not been able to look over the car and am only new to the 4x4 scene but am heavily into other motor sport so i hav a fairly good mechanical way. just need to learn the ropes of the 4x4 way haha. so i think ill go with the 33"x12.5" as i do a fair amountof off road shooting on my mates property.

So what about rim offset etc?
can i get my high in the front thru the standa torsion bars to match my 2" rear lft along with the 2" body lift and or standar lift?
cheers heaps for your help

Yes, you can crank your front torsion bars to match a 2" rear lift. Trimming the upper (droop) stops is also a good idea, to restore some droop travel.

Rim offset, go for a zero offset rim, which is what Patrols run. Be careful with "Patrol fitment" aftermarket rims, as some are -13mm offset. This will increase your track beyond legal limits, and push the tyres even further outside the guards.

I have 285/75R16 tyres on zero offset rims, and the sidewalls are right on the line of the GLS flares. If you go 33x12.5 tyres, and/or the -13mm offset rims, you may find you receive unwanted questions from the boys with the funny blue hats.

thanks scott
but if i put them screw in rubber flares on, does that make them legal??
th 12.5s that is

Your 2.8 already has 40mm body lift from the factory. They did this to fit the bigger transmission used for the 2.8 and the 3500 petrol. You should be able to fit 33x12.50s with just a 2" lift, although some modifications to the front mudguards may be necessary to stop tire rub when flexing under full lock. Whether that is accomplished through body lift or suspension lift is up to you but most people would recommend body lift as it keeps the center of gravity lower and does not mess with articulation.

If you fit wheel arches and are prepared to modify the fenders a bit, you should be able to fit 35x12.50s with 2" lift. There is no problem in the back, but in the front you might want to cut a bit from the rear of the fender, get mudguards that take less space and even trim a bit off the bumper corners.

For a suspension lift the way to do it depends on whether it's a LWB or a SWB. For a SWB you can apparently get a 2" lift in back by fitting springs from a LWB. For a LWB I understand you can fit GQ springs. In either truck you could of course fit a 2" spring spacer. In the front you can adjust the torsion bars to get a 2" lift. For more articulation you can cut trim the bump stops in front and remove the anti-roll bar in rear. Just make sure your brake lines are long enough. You might have to lower the bump stops in rear to stop the bigger tire from hitting the inner fenders.

I would personally go for a 2" body lift and 35x12.50R15 tires, with wheel arches and some trimming of the fenders, but of course your requirements may well be different from mine.

I agree with love_mud that you should only do as big a lift as is necessary to fit the tires.

arnijr wrote:Your 2.8 already has 40mm body lift from the factory. They did this to fit the bigger transmission used for the 2.8 and the 3500 petrol. You should be able to fit 33x12.50s with just a 2" lift, although some modifications to the front mudguards may be necessary to stop tire rub when flexing under full lock. Whether that is accomplished through body lift or suspension lift is up to you but most people would recommend body lift as it keeps the center of gravity lower and does not mess with articulation.

If you fit wheel arches and are prepared to modify the fenders a bit, you should be able to fit 35x12.50s with 2" lift. There is no problem in the back, but in the front you might want to cut a bit from the rear of the fender, get mudguards that take less space and even trim a bit off the bumper corners.

For a suspension lift the way to do it depends on whether it's a LWB or a SWB. For a SWB you can apparently get a 2" lift in back by fitting springs from a LWB. For a LWB I understand you can fit GQ springs. In either truck you could of course fit a 2" spring spacer. In the front you can adjust the torsion bars to get a 2" lift. For more articulation you can cut trim the bump stops in front and remove the anti-roll bar in rear. Just make sure your brake lines are long enough. You might have to lower the bump stops in rear to stop the bigger tire from hitting the inner fenders.

I would personally go for a 2" body lift and 35x12.50R15 tires, with wheel arches and some trimming of the fenders, but of course your requirements may well be different from mine.

I agree with love_mud that you should only do as big a lift as is necessary to fit the tires.

what he said, but stick with 33's to maintain some scrap of decent gearing and avoid too much attention from the boys in blue

arnijr wrote: For a suspension lift the way to do it depends on whether it's a LWB or a SWB. For a SWB you can apparently get a 2" lift in back by fitting springs from a LWB. For a LWB I understand you can fit GQ springs. In either truck you could of course fit a 2" spring spacer. In the front you can adjust the torsion bars to get a 2" lift. For more articulation you can cut trim the bump stops in front and remove the anti-roll bar in rear. Just make sure your brake lines are long enough. You might have to lower the bump stops in rear to stop the bigger tire from hitting the inner fenders.

if i put the springs from a lwb on my swb would i need front and rear or just rear? i just dont know if the front will get any lift with the lwb springs up front.

run LWB rear springs and diesel front torsion bars.
what model is your SWB?

DRides wrote:run LWB rear springs and diesel front torsion bars.
what model is your SWB?

from what i can gather it is a 1994 sr 3.5l but it dosnt have lockers from what i can tell.

When you guys are talking 0 offset. Which width wheels are you talking about? I assume its one of the sunraysia widths so either 7", 8" or 10" wide.

DRides wrote:run LWB rear springs and diesel front torsion bars.
what model is your SWB?

is it swb diesel torsion bars or are the lwb bars the same?