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Getting rid of the 6.5 diseasel

Posted: Sun May 02, 2010 9:32 pm
by Wozza244
The chev in my 60 needs work, the head gasket is blown and pressurising the radiator, looks to be roughly $3500 from undoing the first bolt to doing the last one back up, possibly more.

I weighed up the options and the benefits and have decided im gonna go with a LS1 or similar looking for one with less than 100k on it preferrably out of a write off.
The conversion should be really simple, engine mounts, bellhousing and that should be it as far as fitting it in goes.
Obviously installing the computer and all but i will get a sparky to do it all, im excited to get it underway between winter and summer.

Posted: Sun May 02, 2010 9:47 pm
by blackmav
This one just finished. 150k for $3600

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... K:MEWAX:IT

Re: Getting rid of the 6.5 diseasel

Posted: Sun May 02, 2010 10:25 pm
by PacMan
Wozza244 wrote:The conversion should be really simple, engine mounts, bellhousing and that should be it as far as fitting it in goes.
Obviously installing the computer and all but i will get a sparky to do it all, im excited to get it underway between winter and summer.
You will see it is heaps more at the end.
Oil sump, fuel system, modded brackets for alt/ac, 12" clutch, headers...

Have a look at the Marks4x4 website.

Posted: Mon May 03, 2010 12:08 am
by ludacris
Expect around $12000 for full conversion. Not the cheapest motor to transplant.

Cris

Posted: Mon May 03, 2010 3:55 pm
by 75 cruser
just fix the v8 diesel, or look around for another motor, :D

rob

Posted: Mon May 03, 2010 4:30 pm
by hiluxmad
what about Duramax? :twisted:
keeps it diesel and most of your existing conversion shoulod carry over?
motors are a bit exxy but if your are looking at 10k+ for LS1 may not be a bad option?
my 2c

Posted: Mon May 03, 2010 4:53 pm
by chimpboy
You already weighed up the pros and cons of the diesel and decided it was worth the higher repair costs down the track, so imho keep it, fix it better than it ever was before, and don't blow the considerable extra cost for a new conversion.

Just my opinion. If you have spare money find some other use for it.

Posted: Mon May 03, 2010 5:50 pm
by VooDoo
You can often get the LS1 much cheaper. I got a low K, VZ SS engine, gearbox, diff, exhaust, extractors, loom, computers, all accessories (ac, Alternator etc) for $3500. Its a pretty easy conversion and they are cheap to run and easy to get power from too.

Posted: Mon May 03, 2010 6:18 pm
by sierrajim
chimpboy wrote:You already weighed up the pros and cons of the diesel and decided it was worth the higher repair costs down the track, so imho keep it, fix it better than it ever was before, and don't blow the considerable extra cost for a new conversion.

Just my opinion. If you have spare money find some other use for it.
The 6.5 was never that good to start with. Having had lots to do with them, spend the money and fit something else - the Duramax would be tops, they are however quite expensive.

Posted: Mon May 03, 2010 8:21 pm
by KiwiBacon
How expensive is a 12HT?
We know they fit. :lol:

Posted: Mon May 03, 2010 8:59 pm
by hj 45
KiwiBacon wrote:How expensive is a 12HT?
We know they fit. :lol:
Price on a motor importer's page says 7 grand. :shock: There are some that pop up on ebay for less though.

Posted: Mon May 03, 2010 9:46 pm
by 75 cruser

Posted: Tue May 04, 2010 7:44 am
by chimpboy
sierrajim wrote:
chimpboy wrote:You already weighed up the pros and cons of the diesel and decided it was worth the higher repair costs down the track, so imho keep it, fix it better than it ever was before, and don't blow the considerable extra cost for a new conversion.

Just my opinion. If you have spare money find some other use for it.
The 6.5 was never that good to start with. Having had lots to do with them, spend the money and fit something else - the Duramax would be tops, they are however quite expensive.
Fair enough, it just sounds like the other options cost shitloads.

Posted: Tue May 04, 2010 8:16 am
by pinkfloyddsotm
12 grand for the LS1 conversion :shock:

Posted: Tue May 04, 2010 1:06 pm
by dogbreath_48

Posted: Tue May 04, 2010 3:11 pm
by bru21
blackmav wrote:This one just finished. 150k for $3600

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... K:MEWAX:IT
a new ls2 is not a lot more $

Posted: Tue May 04, 2010 7:40 pm
by Wozza244
That is a great site for parts but the import costs are huge :shock:

Linquip would charge double thae price for anything on that page

Posted: Tue May 04, 2010 7:46 pm
by Wozza244
ludacris wrote:Expect around $12000 for full conversion. Not the cheapest motor to transplant.

Cris
Im not sure i can work out how it would cost 12,000?

The motor complete with loom, computer etc ready to drop in and run is gonna cost me around 3-4000 possibly less.

Some sparky work maybe up to 1000
Zorst 500
Engine mounts 100 worth of steel i will fab the brackets for the mounts
Bellhousing 500
Clutch 500


And that would be near finished id reckon??

Posted: Tue May 04, 2010 8:00 pm
by Shadow
bru21 wrote:
blackmav wrote:This one just finished. 150k for $3600

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... K:MEWAX:IT
a new ls2 is not a lot more $
about 5k is cheapest I can find a ls2 for (they were 4500 about a year ago)

then you need a drive belt kit, loom, computer, headers, auto (in my case)

ends up $8k+.

would love to be proven wrong though!~!!!

Posted: Tue May 04, 2010 9:36 pm
by crankycruiser
as has been said, expect costs of anywhere between 6k and 12k...

mine cost me 7k to do and i did all the work myself..

yer i coulda saved a few hundred on engine mounts... I could of built the loom myself ($700), but to get all the parts for the kit made it so much easier... i had my old motor out on a fri night and the ls running by the sunday arvo....

look up what the parts will cost on the marks website, u may not need to move the alt on a 60? so that will save a bit.

u will still need to get a truck sump and mod it, fuel pump and lines will be an issue..

don't scrimp on the cooling side.. the engine driven fan is ten times a thermo will ever be...

its an awesome converison.. but to get a decent job u may be lookin at some dollarz

Posted: Tue May 04, 2010 10:14 pm
by Kitika
Wozza244 wrote:
ludacris wrote:Expect around $12000 for full conversion. Not the cheapest motor to transplant.

Cris
Im not sure i can work out how it would cost 12,000?

The motor complete with loom, computer etc ready to drop in and run is gonna cost me around 3-4000 possibly less.

Some sparky work maybe up to 1000
Zorst 500
Engine mounts 100 worth of steel i will fab the brackets for the mounts
Bellhousing 500
Clutch 500


And that would be near finished id reckon??
Not to far off I paid $2800 for a complete engine with everything on it 55,000km VY and has great compression. Depending on what gearbox you have tho you may want to upgrade it. The 80's H151 box is probably the strongest box and best suited to the LS1 as it has the 12inch clutch and all the others aren't as strong from what i've heard. Going the commo auto would be a pretty good option as they are pretty bloody tough and you can get them really cheap. Just get the conversion plate to put your transfer case to the back of it.

Posted: Tue May 04, 2010 10:27 pm
by killalux
Wozza244 wrote:
ludacris wrote:Expect around $12000 for full conversion. Not the cheapest motor to transplant.

Cris
Im not sure i can work out how it would cost 12,000?

The motor complete with loom, computer etc ready to drop in and run is gonna cost me around 3-4000 possibly less.

Some sparky work maybe up to 1000
Zorst 500
Engine mounts 100 worth of steel i will fab the brackets for the mounts
Bellhousing 500
Clutch 500


And that would be near finished id reckon??
Hey,
Its not as cheap as you are thinking.
I can do a universal harness for you $475, unlock ECU $150, DIY fit up from there.
Exhaust - requires custom extractors to fit $900 for marks headers, $300 for hi-flow cat converter, $500ish for system
Bellhousing - About $1400 for the marks adapters kit. I used a bellhousing from seatons engineering in perth, was $660. Not sure if that will work with the 60 series box.
Clutch - Mine was $1150 with billet flywheel, V10 dodge pressure plate and cruiser clutch plate.
thermo fans - $250. Use commodore or falcon fans, They cool the motor in a commodore so why bother going to the trouble of fitting an engine fan
Fuel system - $300, Hi pressure in tank pump and external pressure regulator
Pwr steer hose $150ish
Radiator hoses, random bits, oil, coolant, etc $300-$500


Just check all ya prices before you go ahead. As said can be done for around $7000 if its all DIY and not using alll marks parts.

Steve

Posted: Wed May 05, 2010 7:26 pm
by yamaha12
im after a 6.5 diesel v8 how much do you want for it? and whats it need?

Posted: Wed May 05, 2010 9:21 pm
by 6.5 rangie
Wozza244 wrote:
ludacris wrote:Expect around $12000 for full conversion. Not the cheapest motor to transplant.

Cris
Im not sure i can work out how it would cost 12,000?

The motor complete with loom, computer etc ready to drop in and run is gonna cost me around 3-4000 possibly less.

Some sparky work maybe up to 1000
Zorst 500
Engine mounts 100 worth of steel i will fab the brackets for the mounts
Bellhousing 500
Clutch 500


And that would be near finished id reckon??
Shouldn't your bell housing already fit being a chev and all? And you can by adapter plates to mount early chev mounts to a gen3, so it should basically boolt straight in with what you have shouldn't it?
When i pulled the 308 stroker out of my rangie and stuck that big heap of chev diesel carp in, it bolted straight in (except for engine mounts), then i used the same conversion (in a county) but with a gen 3 infront of it, all bolted in. (except engine mounts which were different as i moved the engine back).
Don't forget you'll need a truck sump

Posted: Wed May 05, 2010 9:54 pm
by Wozza244
I had an idea that chev was the same and bellhousing would fit, a bloke at work has a motor its one of those 304 block ones out of a statesman VN he wants 1000 for the motor turbo 700 loom and computer it has 210k on it would it be a good deal?

Posted: Wed May 05, 2010 11:06 pm
by 6.5 rangie
Wozza244 wrote:I had an idea that chev was the same and bellhousing would fit, a bloke at work has a motor its one of those 304 block ones out of a statesman VN he wants 1000 for the motor turbo 700 loom and computer it has 210k on it would it be a good deal?
the 304 is a good motor, even better with a stroker crank in it ;) . MY 6.5 went about the same as my carby fed holden 336 stroker, but i never had faith in the chev, will never go down that route again :x

Posted: Thu May 06, 2010 12:03 am
by Kitika
I'm pretty sure a 350 chev would bolt straight in and be alot easy not requiring wiring or computer mods. Yours being a 60 you should be able to get engineered having easier emission adrs etc.
Be heaps, heaps cheaper too

Posted: Thu May 06, 2010 9:32 am
by Guy
Wozza244 wrote:I had an idea that chev was the same and bellhousing would fit, a bloke at work has a motor its one of those 304 block ones out of a statesman VN he wants 1000 for the motor turbo 700 loom and computer it has 210k on it would it be a good deal?
Spend some $$ on a quality rebuild (is there a stroker kit for the 304 ? )
Spend a few more on a rebuild for the 700 to make it live a long and happy life in a 4x4 .. and you will have 2 known good parts as opposed to a motor of unknown history.

Posted: Thu May 06, 2010 9:08 pm
by 6.5 rangie
yamaha12 wrote:im after a 6.5 diesel v8 how much do you want for it? and whats it need?
a 6.5 or a duramax? (going from this and your wanted add), 2 compleatly different engines, ones real good, ones real crap ;)

Posted: Thu May 06, 2010 9:35 pm
by Wozza244
Kitika wrote:I'm pretty sure a 350 chev would bolt straight in and be alot easy not requiring wiring or computer mods. Yours being a 60 you should be able to get engineered having easier emission adrs etc.
Be heaps, heaps cheaper too
The thing is i wouldnt want to run a 350 carby motor without gas, i dont want to run gas.
This is why im thinking of opting for the injected motor.

The whole point is the chev diesel gets hot in summer and if i drag out the process of working out what to put in it im gonna find myself 10km from home on my way to work on a 35+ degree day with a hot motor that needs to sit and cool. NOT COOL!!!

I also dont want to f#$k around too much, it already has too much $$$ spent on engine mods i want the cheapest but not nastiest option, i have some good mechanical/welding/fabricating skills but do need a little guidance so thats a big +!!
And money aint so easy to come by these days :lol:

But yeah a BIG thanks to the outers crew, so many minds thinking and making suggestions have made my job easier over the last cpl yrs here.