Gu wheel bearings (front)
Posted: Mon May 03, 2010 3:31 pm
Gu runiing 35s and 6" lift wheel bearings are allways coming lose.Has anyone got any ideas i am adj them every 1000 klm atm.
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Gu wheel bearings (front)
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Posted: Mon May 03, 2010 3:39 pm
Are you using the proper lock washer or locking ring?
Posted: Mon May 03, 2010 5:08 pm
yea mate got the good one with the 2 srews!! Im not running sway bars abut my bro has a gq same hight and 35s but no prob so somthings not right.
Posted: Mon May 03, 2010 7:52 pm
i have the same prob,fitted new ones,still the same,not as bad as yours though.............
Posted: Tue May 04, 2010 3:58 pm
I've got pretty much the same issue.
I have replaced mine twice now, they come loose constantly.
I'm using the good toyo ones and always replace the seals and the lot.
They just always seem to come loose and obviously if not tightened they wear out quickly.
I just put up with it as my truck is not my daily drive and the bearings are "only" $80 a side so once a year I just replace them when their shot......
I have replaced mine twice now, they come loose constantly.
I'm using the good toyo ones and always replace the seals and the lot.
They just always seem to come loose and obviously if not tightened they wear out quickly.
I just put up with it as my truck is not my daily drive and the bearings are "only" $80 a side so once a year I just replace them when their shot......
Posted: Wed May 05, 2010 12:49 pm
Are you making sure they are seated properly each time when you tighten them? If the bearings are not actually wearing out that's the only thing I can think of.
I can't remember off the top of my head but I think the manual says to tighten to quite a high torque then back off. This is an easy process with the gq style nuts but probably harder with the two holed setup. If your just tightening to the point that the play is gone maybe that's your problem.
I can't remember off the top of my head but I think the manual says to tighten to quite a high torque then back off. This is an easy process with the gq style nuts but probably harder with the two holed setup. If your just tightening to the point that the play is gone maybe that's your problem.
Posted: Wed May 05, 2010 7:18 pm
Im a mechanic done a thousand of them!! but i put a new lot in about 10,000 klm ago if that and i need to put new ones in again???i dont drive the car every but just getting over it there has to be a reason??but what i dont know
Posted: Wed May 05, 2010 9:24 pm
Is the torque setting the same as the GQ 167-196 Nm that is for the GQ.danaz wrote:Are you making sure they are seated properly each time when you tighten them? If the bearings are not actually wearing out that's the only thing I can think of.
I can't remember off the top of my head but I think the manual says to tighten to quite a high torque then back off. This is an easy process with the gq style nuts but probably harder with the two holed setup. If your just tightening to the point that the play is gone maybe that's your problem.
Posted: Wed May 05, 2010 9:54 pm
i must be missing something??.... is it shearing the little screws between the locking ring and tightening nut? otherwise it would be impossible to come loose?
i put gu style ones into my mav cause the old ones kept coming loose every 1000 km or so with the tab washer setup.
i put gu style ones into my mav cause the old ones kept coming loose every 1000 km or so with the tab washer setup.
Posted: Wed May 05, 2010 10:08 pm
Are you putting the rear seal in upside down? it has one single edge which goes towards the bearing and a twin lip seal that goes to the diff side . I had a customer with the same prob , seal was in upside down and the single lip (made of harder rubber) was bottoming out stopping the bearing from fully seating and then slowly wearing away making the bearing loose.
You couldn't tell the seal was rubbing as it is only the edge touching so it doesn't drag too much .
You couldn't tell the seal was rubbing as it is only the edge touching so it doesn't drag too much .
Posted: Wed May 05, 2010 11:08 pm
Can you guys post pictures of the locking assembly you are using?
Posted: Thu May 06, 2010 4:36 pm
im doing them tomorro so ill have a look at that seal i havent taken much notice. cheers ill let u know how i go
Posted: Thu May 06, 2010 5:20 pm
you talking about te seal that goes on the back of the stub axle?
Posted: Thu May 06, 2010 6:02 pm
hey mate i had same problem... the problem with mine was the the lip on the wheel spindal was worn from the bearing slapping on it and it creates a ber and eventually they come loose again and again... i replaced mi spindals and its all good.... 490 new from nissan... carnt get non genuine... average prive was 160 each from wreckers... but make sure they arnt worn...
Posted: Sun May 09, 2010 8:33 pm
Dumb question, are you running the right grease? also are you putting enough preload on the them? They don't need to be 'just' tight, more like Fn tight. But here's the hard data...
Taken from Service Manual:
Taken from Service Manual:
Hope that helps yaFront Wheel Bearing
Check that wheel bearings operate smoothly.
Check axial end play.
Axial end play:
0 mm (0 in)
Adjust wheel bearing preload if there is any axial end play or
wheel bearing does not turn smoothly.
Front Wheel Bearing (Cont’d
PRELOAD ADJUSTMENT
Adjust wheel bearing preload after wheel bearing has been
replaced or front axle has been reassembled.
Adjust wheel bearing preload as follows:
1. Before adjustment, thoroughly clean all parts to prevent dirt
entry.
2. Apply multi-purpose grease sparingly to the following parts:
Wheel hub (as shown at left)
Wheel bearing
Grease seal lip
Contact surface between wheel bearing lock washer (chamfered
side) and outer wheel bearing
3. Tighten wheel bearing lock nut with Tool.
: 167 - 196 N×m (17 - 20 kg-m, 123 - 145 ft-lb)
4. Turn wheel hub several times in both directions.
5. Loosen wheel bearing lock nut so that torque becomes 0 N×m
(0 kg-m, 0 ft-lb).
6. Retighten wheel bearing lock nut with Tool.
: 3 - 5 N×m (0.3 - 0.5 kg-m, 26 - 43 in-lb)
ON-VEHICLE SERVICE
Front Wheel Bearing (Cont’d)
9. Again turn wheel hub several times in both directions.
10. Measure starting force “A” at wheel hub bolt.
11. Tighten lock nut until screw hole is aligned with screw hole in
lock washer. Lock washer may be used with either side up.
Temporarily tighten lock washer using screw.
12. Turn wheel hub several times in both directions.
13. Measure starting force “B” at wheel hub bolt. Refer to procedure
10.
14. Wheel bearing preload “C” can be calculated as shown below.
C = B − A
Wheel bearing preload “C”:
0 - 18.6 N (0 - 1.9 kg, 0 - 4.2 lb)
15. If wheel bearing preload “C” is outside specifications, loosen
lock nut and adjust wheel bearing preload “C” to 0 to 18.6 N (0
to 1.9 kg, 0 to 4.2 lb) range.
16. Measure wheel bearing axial end play.
Axial end play:
0 mm (0 in)
17. Tighten screw.
: 1.2 - 1.8 N×m (0.12 - 0.18 kg-m, 10.4 - 15.6 in-lb)
18. Recheck to ensure that wheel bearing preload and axial end
play are within specified ranges.
19. Pack drive flange groove with grease, apply grease to O-ring
and mating surface of drive flange, and install flange.
20. Place snap ring in drive shaft groove. Choose snap ring so that
the gap between groove and snap ring is 0.4 mm (0.016 in) or less.