Outer Limits 4x4 Board

1st question:

Has anyone seen it done before?

2nd question:

am I pushing shit up hill attempting it?

Reasoning:

I dont want the car to be any higher than it is...but I dont want the dramas of toothpick diffs when I go for more power

Haven't seen it personally with bundy diffs but they are essentially Hilux diffs which has been done. good alternative due to the slightly narrower track, means you don't have to have crazy wide flares.

Keep in mind Bundy diffs have a rear drag link and high pinion centre which may cause sump clearance issues. to do it your going to need to spring it over or you'll have to use Hilux knuckles to get the high steer and you'll have to extend your bump stops to stop the steering rods hitting the chassis on compression. or use 40 series cruiser steering arms and go low steer which you then run the risk of bending on rocks etc.

If your going to use Bundy diffs may as well go coils, Bundy chassis is only about 30mm wider than a zook, diffs already have the coil hats on them.

5 link the arse and use the standard front radius arms, use the bundy steering box too, then you've got power steer.

Done properly you'll have a capable rig that will handle and flex and can be registered on 33" tyres

as much as id love to keep coils it is waaayyy past my skillset...I dont want power steer as its just another thing to fuck up in the bush

id never get it registered with coils in SA either...our rules are rediculous

the 40 series cruiser arms sound good...what drag link would I use then?

The bundy one, the sierra one or a custom job?

Id also like to mention that im a povo mortgaged up homeowner so i would like to do it on the cheap

I am not scared of doing a 2" engine lift either if needed

so where are you going to drive it if it is unregistered?

Why not just upgrade your existing axles with chro moly stuff from trail Tough.

Your current setup will be way more capable than what you are proposing to do

I agree with grimbo...put some chromos through your current diffs assuming you have widetrack diffs.

you are looking at under $900 shipped for front and rear chromos for WT diffs and they bolt in. Can't get any easier and will be strong enough for most engines you put in a zook.

MR 1JZ wrote:
the 40 series cruiser arms sound good...what drag link would I use then?

The bundy one, the sierra one or a custom job?

The Bundera one would go close to being right, but as it'll be the first thing you hit I'd probably contact Superior or somebody who can make one to the length you need from Cromo, or you could sleave yours with heavy walled pipe.

MR 1JZ wrote: Id also like to mention that im a povo mortgaged up homeowner so i would like to do it on the cheap

Depending one what your trying to achive in the end it may not be that cheap, if your only running 31-33" tyres the CV's may survive with a zook engine (depending on how you drive) but if you add serious power then just like the standard fare you're going to have to go Cromoly CV's or get good at changing them

Or if it's simply width and strength your after as Grimbo said, trail tough axles/CV's and some offset rims will be the way to go.

thanks for the info guys...I wasnt dead set on it and now I have been turned away from it

looks like ill have to keep developing what I already have in the car

MR 1JZ wrote:I dont want the car to be any higher than it is...but I dont want the dramas of toothpick diffs when I go for more power

How much power?

I was thinking an SR20 with a t28 turbo...so around 200rwkw but I can't really entertain that idea in zook diffs

MR 1JZ wrote:I was thinking an SR20 with a t28 turbo...so around 200rwkw but I can't really entertain that idea in zook diffs

Probably a bit too much for a Sierra drivetrain if its going to be 4wdriven
Check out oozuk's build thread, he's getting aroun 140ish HP (around 110ish kW) I think it was at the wheels. He reckons its got ample go, and he still managed to kill a few bits and pieces in 2 trips out.

Just remember they are light, so power to weight ratio is achievable with somewhat less crazyness...lol. Also remember they get a bit scary at really high speed

Yeh I tend to go overboard with grunt on most of my car projects...will have to return to my original idea of the 8v vit motor and a weber I think

MR 1JZ wrote:Yeh I tend to go overboard with grunt on most of my car projects...will have to return to my original idea of the 8v vit motor and a weber I think

webbers are only good for one thing & that's doing roast chooks & lamb...

MR 1JZ wrote:Yeh I tend to go overboard with grunt on most of my car projects...will have to return to my original idea of the 8v vit motor and a weber I think

if you are going to the effort of an engine swap go for EFI.

The SR thing has crossed my mind a couple times (I have one sitting in my shed) but then I figured it'd probably turn into another car sitting unfinished in my driveway

what about 75 cruiser diffs, same size front as a lux and pretty sure its a bolt up or very close.

zook4fun wrote:what about 75 cruiser diffs, same size front as a lux and pretty sure its a bolt up or very close.

75 series diffs have got the 9-1/4" centres. (leaf sprung)
The pumpkin is way to big for a zook. and would never go in without a spring over Plus maybe 1.5 inches to clear the pumpkin.

78/79 series have got the hilux style diff but are still high pinion and are essentially the same Bundera, but with better brakes and the slightly larger 80 series CV's

you sure? i know the 60 has the big diffs but every cruiser ( what i thought is a 75) has had the small front.

yep, if it's leaf sprung ( ie 75/77 series Troopy and Ute and 72/73/74 series SWB/MWB cruiser ) it's got the big centre.

Later 76/78 and 79 are coiled and have the 8" centre same as the BJ 70 Bundera

All 70 series landcruisers since 1991 (the introduction of the 1HZ motor) have the smaller high pinion front diff.

Steve.

im running lux front with longfields and bundy rear. works great for me with coils..
running them sprung under would be fine in my mind as long as you can set up spring pads