Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hi,
2 1/2 years ago I got my TD42 NA fitted up with an MTQ turbo kit, Since then I have had issues with a drip oil leak from oil drain back pipe from turbo, I had shop that installed Turbo look at it once and they said they re done the barb that goes into the sump and it should be right. Next day it was drip leaking again.
So i thought I would have a look at it, removed hose from fitting to check oil level and where they spiked the sump is just a bit below what is the full line on dip stick. So i think they spiked it to low.

Problem is now as I tried to remove rubber hose of barb the whole thing has come out of the side of sump..... WTF they told me the barb was threaded and they used a series of punches to push sump metal in to, this would allow them to tap it and screw the barb in, then use metal putty around outside to support barb. Yeah right.

Any suggestions on how best to fix this now

Cheers David

Just braze it with silver solder with the sump empty, will need flux tho if its a brass barb.

turbmav wrote:Just braze it with silver solder with the sump empty, will need flux tho if its a brass barb.

Wouldn't that catch a lite (fire)!

sucks that the shop did a dodgy job. Have you brought this up with the shop that did the work. I'd be taking it back and making it their problem.

Otherwise, take it somewhere else if you don't trust them, make sure you tell them this, and when you get the bill for the repair, take it to them and ask for reimbursement. If they refuse, take them to small claims court, explain that you had taken it back a couple of times and was dissatisfied with their poor quality of work so had another shop fix it properly, show them the photos you have on here and you shouldn't have any dramas getting the original shop to pay for their poor workmanship.

If for what ever reason, you want to fix it yourself to save the hassle. Take the sump off, clean it then weld a bung on to the sump. Put sump back on, screw drain hose in nice a firm and refill oil. Huge stuff around but it'll never leak again.

turbmav wrote:Just braze it with silver solder with the sump empty, will need flux tho if its a brass barb.

Also Silver solder is for small or no gaps around fitting, this is not the case for me as there are big gaps around barb

David

anzac wrote:sucks that the shop did a dodgy job. Have you brought this up with the shop that did the work. I'd be taking it back and making it their problem.

Otherwise, take it somewhere else if you don't trust them, make sure you tell them this, and when you get the bill for the repair, take it to them and ask for reimbursement. If they refuse, take them to small claims court, explain that you had taken it back a couple of times and was dissatisfied with their poor quality of work so had another shop fix it properly, show them the photos you have on here and you shouldn't have any dramas getting the original shop to pay for their poor workmanship.

If for what ever reason, you want to fix it yourself to save the hassle. Take the sump off, clean it then weld a bung on to the sump. Put sump back on, screw drain hose in nice a firm and refill oil. Huge stuff around but it'll never leak again.

Agreed, I have now sent an email to shop

David

I've done two sumps now, no problems. As soon as it heats up the oil around hole does smoke a little (about 1 min) but doesn't catch a lite as there is not enough oxegen in the sump to get ignition. Mine was on a petrol engine shouldn't be any different and the barb isn't under pressure so filling a bit of the gap with silver solder wouldn't hurt it. If the gap is more than a mm all round go to reece plumbing and find one that fits better. I'd have a crack but thats just my opinion.

turbmav wrote:I've done two sumps now, no problems. As soon as it heats up the oil around hole does smoke a little (about 1 min) but doesn't catch a lite as there is not enough oxegen in the sump to get ignition. Mine was on a petrol engine shouldn't be any different and the barb isn't under pressure so filling a bit of the gap with silver solder wouldn't hurt it. If the gap is more than a mm all round go to reece plumbing and find one that fits better. I'd have a crack but thats just my opinion.

You interested in doing a third (mine) i'm in Ipswich

Yeh mate if you get a new barb that fits snug or just one with no crap on it, can do it this weekend. Ive got all the gear on my truck to do it just PM me with ya phone number to make a time.

You can also buy a threaded pipe that can be welded to your sump. I usually remove the sump and will be doing mine this week end if the shop has the bits I need.

Cris

turbmav wrote:Yeh mate if you get a new barb that fits snug or just one with no crap on it, can do it this weekend. Ive got all the gear on my truck to do it just PM me with ya phone number to make a time.

Turbmav, Thanks for the offer I would have taken you up on that but had a mate who is a plumber come over this arvo and we have brazed it in now she is all good.

I am still going to give AMMS heaps on the rough as f@%K job they did on my turbo fit up. Shit roothy hope you don't have issues like me with them......

David

AMMS did that?

nice

anzac wrote:AMMS did that?

nice

Yep!..... wasn't going to say but after sending Glen an email earlier today and getting NO response I figured bugger it.

So poor old Milo and Red........

David

No worries, should take it back to them and show then how it should be done.

i fitted a turbz on my truck late last year and i just bronzed the fitting on with ozy, flux and bronzing rods.

InSanE wrote:i fitted a turbz on my truck late last year and i just bronzed the fitting on with ozy, flux and bronzing rods.

Now that's what you would of expected to be done by a reputable turbo install business especially for $5500 dollars. Yeah

David

PS nice job!!!! what kit did you go with?

Hi, just an update.
I received an email back from Glen at AMMS yesterday (Sunday) saying he would call me Monday to arrange for my patrol to be pickedup by towtruck and taken to his workshop and fix it correctly. Wow! how good is that!

Just got the call from glen, very appologetic at what had happened. Also said he had looked back through job history and the technician that did install had done similar to other customers vehicles and that he no longer works there.
I let glen know i had repaired the bung so there was no need to get the tow truck. Glen has offered to look after me with other services they offer, as a sincere appology for my inconvience. I will take him up on the offer when I fit my top mount intercooler I shall get AMMS to re- dyno/tune the troll.
How good is that....... Thanks Glen (owner) of AMMS

PS words said above were said in the heat of frustration, that said please accept my criticism as constructive and NOT destructive

Cheers David

Just got the

= WIN.

Also the turbo drain should be above the oil level. So I'd say they have put it to low in the sump as well.

PS Amazing how a public forum like this can be a huge benefit when people just state the facts!

couldn't ask for a fairer response from a workshop and shows that AMMS management take their customers seriously.

Dodgy workmanship can be hard to nail before work has gone out and it's only returns that suddenly highlight dramas with a particular staff member's quality of work.

I think that such a positive response from Glen has reinforced that this kind of forum isn't always about trashing other shops. To be honest, I was surprised that the work mentioned was from AMMS.

To moddedgu, I think you've handled this pretty well. Pictures keep any emotions out of the picture because people can see for themselves what has happened. Nice of you to not name the shop straight up as well to give them a chance at helping you out first. OL members beat Glen to the punch but at least he followed up on it, you won't get that from every shop.

moddedgu wrote:

InSanE wrote:i fitted a turbz on my truck late last year and i just bronzed the fitting on with ozy, flux and bronzing rods.

Now that's what you would of expected to be done by a reputable turbo install business especially for $5500 dollars. Yeah

David

PS nice job!!!! what kit did you go with?

I diddnt go for a kit mate i just put together a setup myself using JPC custom roller turbo, MTQ lowmount manofold, modded GU TB45 airbox, GU injector pump, speedflow oil n water lines and 3" exhaust