Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hey all am suffering bad vibes in my rear tailshaft. And have been playing heaps with the upper arms trying to iron it out. But it so far proved fruitless. What's the best way/ tool to get the pinion flange exactly the same as the rear end of the box. That way I can eliminate that part of the problem and chase down another fix. Is gbox spacer hi pinion dear diff. Or anything like that.
Cheers fellas

Tried an angle finder, and then tried to match the output angle to the input angle?

Have thought of something like that but wasn't sure of what they are called
where do u get em from

Any reputable hardware shop should have them, also welding/fabrication supply stores. Even an old chippies one would do the job.

you can measure from top edge of gearbox flange to top edge of diff flange and same for the bottom.
Both should be the same.

What truck you got? I had some dramas with the GQ 2.8 engine rear tailshaft which took a bit to get rid of

its a td42 swb gq. and yeah it was fine for ages but since my rear end decided to get up and die. it hasnt been the same since.
and alright. you reckon bunnings might have one?

Get your rear converted to a high pinion set up

Problem solved

ive thought of the high pinion rear setup but am just worried about strength. as i was i see it is the front in the rear will always be driving in overrun so to speak. and dont wanna be flogging out gearsets all the time. and also not sure if the factory locker will fit and work with this setup.

High pinion will be the best choice.
You can do a basic check if the pinion is correctly set buy removing a wheel and looking at the coil spring, if it is straight without a curve then it is pretty good, an angle meter is better but a visual check is okay as well.

yeah coils are pretty good at the moment but will recheck them when i get a chance.
so i guess the question still remains will my factory locker work with a high pinion rear?

BeNoS wrote:ive thought of the high pinion rear setup but am just worried about strength. as i was i see it is the front in the rear will always be driving in overrun so to speak. and dont wanna be flogging out gearsets all the time. and also not sure if the factory locker will fit and work with this setup.

I don't believe the high pinion is a weak setup, I've seen the swb comp trucks using them successfully (And flogging the S$%T out of it)

Yeah I've also seem em thrashed in comps and stuff jut this being my everything rig. I'd just hate to head up the cape or the likes and have a rear diff flog out. Meh might have to just do it and strip it every 12 months or so and just check it all over. Just to be on the safe side.

I have a SWB TD42 and have a 2" lift, snake racing ajustable control arms and I also had to space the gearbox crossmember down 10mm.
I used a digital angle finder (from bunnings) to align the drive flanges and haven't had any problems since.
I have driven from Darwin to Victoria and back 3 times in the last two years.
But from what I hear every vehical is different depending on the amount of lift etc obviously.
You just need to find out what works for your aplication.

yeah i went into bunnings this arvo and they had a magnetic protractor. its not digital but long as its accurate it will do what i need.
il have a play tomoz arvo and see how it all goes. other wise experiment with high pinion rear using the factory rear locker.