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The trailer I ended up with

Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 6:19 pm
by me3@neuralfibre.com
I asked about trailers here a while back

Here was the outcome
http://neuralfibre.com/paul/reviews/easy-trailer-review

No - it wont' carry your 4wd, but it will carry the parts :)

Paul

Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 6:27 pm
by VooDoo
Did you mean to say it should rattle apart easy?
The nuts are all nylocks, so it should rattle apart too easily,

Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 6:38 pm
by want33s
me3@neuralfibre.com wrote: *The jockey wheel they supply didn’t do what I wanted, so I sourced a lightweight folding one locally from Repco.
*The lights supplied are conventional bulb types. I threw them in the bin and bought better sealed LED lights from eBay.
*I fitted a set of low profile LED clearance lights
*The wiring supplied uses the trailer as an earth – a likely problem spot. As such I used some of my own wire to run a full earth,
*The trailer comes in lots of bits, with a lot of bolts. Plan on 4-6 hours to assemble it for a first time user.
*The studs on the hubs weren’t drilled particularly square,
*I added an extra brace for the spare wheel to stop it twisting when stood on. I also added a swing up Jockey wheel and extra tie down points.
Sounds like more trouble than it's worth...


AND....
me3@neuralfibre.com wrote: *I like the price.
Explains a lot.

Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 6:54 pm
by oldmate
I'm suprised you couldn't find a company that made cheap box trailers. They only cost about 700-800 round these parts for a 7x4 with rego. They are not flat, but it's not too hard to lay a couple of lengths of wood across the top for the bigger loads.

Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 7:42 pm
by bigbluemav
I bought mine 2nd hand. I reckon that's the BEST way to buy trailers.

Posted: Wed May 19, 2010 9:08 am
by mhgill
bigbluemav wrote:I bought mine 2nd hand. I reckon that's the BEST way to buy trailers.
Agreed. "they dont make em like they used to"

That thing you bought looks a toy. sorry.

Posted: Wed May 19, 2010 9:20 am
by Guy
Its horses for courses .. the trailer is not made of 6mm folded cro-mo plate etc .. but it is suitable for the intended purpose and price.
he had a heavy car trailer if heavy things need carting.

Posted: Wed May 19, 2010 9:26 am
by me3@neuralfibre.com
mhgill wrote:
bigbluemav wrote:I bought mine 2nd hand. I reckon that's the BEST way to buy trailers.
Agreed. "they dont make em like they used to"

That thing you bought looks a toy. sorry.
See that's the angle I got from some of the trailer companies. "More steel is good".

It's interesting that trucking companies are using alloy wheels to save weight, so they can increase payload.

To me, weight is everything. Flexible, lightweight is far better than rigid and heavy. Some manufacturers get it, others don't. If 750kg is the max, then its the max. I already have a 3200kg registered dual axle trailer.
The only other reason people like heavy is that it handles corrosion better. Personally, I would prefer to put a protection in it so it doesn't corrode, rather than carry 200+ kg of steel on the hope that it be thick enough the rust won't matter. Every kg off the trailer is a kg I can add to the payload.

So when it comes to making parts for the cruiser, the same logic applies. Is this lightweight and flexible, like the chassis. Will is have good fatigue resistance, does it flex evenly etc.

Paul

Posted: Wed May 19, 2010 9:31 am
by RUFF
want33s wrote:
me3@neuralfibre.com wrote: *The jockey wheel they supply didn’t do what I wanted, so I sourced a lightweight folding one locally from Repco.
*The lights supplied are conventional bulb types. I threw them in the bin and bought better sealed LED lights from eBay.
*I fitted a set of low profile LED clearance lights
*The wiring supplied uses the trailer as an earth – a likely problem spot. As such I used some of my own wire to run a full earth,
*The trailer comes in lots of bits, with a lot of bolts. Plan on 4-6 hours to assemble it for a first time user.
*The studs on the hubs weren’t drilled particularly square,
*I added an extra brace for the spare wheel to stop it twisting when stood on. I also added a swing up Jockey wheel and extra tie down points.
Sounds like more trouble than it's worth...
His expectations were not high to start with. He was only replacing an XF falcon ute. Its got be be at least better than that.

Posted: Wed May 19, 2010 9:35 am
by 4wd_Haggis
me3@neuralfibre.com wrote:
mhgill wrote:
bigbluemav wrote:I bought mine 2nd hand. I reckon that's the BEST way to buy trailers.
Agreed. "they dont make em like they used to"

That thing you bought looks a toy. sorry.
See that's the angle I got from some of the trailer companies. "More steel is good".

It's interesting that trucking companies are using alloy wheels to save weight, so they can increase payload.

To me, weight is everything. Flexible, lightweight is far better than rigid and heavy. Some manufacturers get it, others don't. If 750kg is the max, then its the max. I already have a 3200kg registered dual axle trailer.
The only other reason people like heavy is that it handles corrosion better. Personally, I would prefer to put a protection in it so it doesn't corrode, rather than carry 200+ kg of steel on the hope that it be thick enough the rust won't matter. Every kg off the trailer is a kg I can add to the payload.

So when it comes to making parts for the cruiser, the same logic applies. Is this lightweight and flexible, like the chassis. Will is have good fatigue resistance, does it flex evenly etc.

Paul
true but the reduced kilos in trailer weight doesn't mean you can just up the payload. the trailer and axles still have to support it all yes... I think the trailer looks good. it wouldn't be bad if made as a 4x4 trailer too.
Cause offroad touring weight is a very big factor.

Posted: Wed May 19, 2010 9:44 am
by chimpboy
I like it.

I hate my trailer and will probably replace it with one from those guys this year, as they are just up the road from me anyway.

Your complaint about trailer weight is spot on, there are uses for hardcore, heavy trailers but most people are pulling a trailer that is much heavier and more cumbersome than they have any need for, for no reason at all.

Posted: Wed May 19, 2010 10:57 am
by oldmate
me3@neuralfibre.com wrote:
mhgill wrote:
bigbluemav wrote:I bought mine 2nd hand. I reckon that's the BEST way to buy trailers.
Agreed. "they dont make em like they used to"

That thing you bought looks a toy. sorry.
See that's the angle I got from some of the trailer companies. "More steel is good".

It's interesting that trucking companies are using alloy wheels to save weight, so they can increase payload.

To me, weight is everything. Flexible, lightweight is far better than rigid and heavy. Some manufacturers get it, others don't. If 750kg is the max, then its the max. I already have a 3200kg registered dual axle trailer.
The only other reason people like heavy is that it handles corrosion better. Personally, I would prefer to put a protection in it so it doesn't corrode, rather than carry 200+ kg of steel on the hope that it be thick enough the rust won't matter. Every kg off the trailer is a kg I can add to the payload.

So when it comes to making parts for the cruiser, the same logic applies. Is this lightweight and flexible, like the chassis. Will is have good fatigue resistance, does it flex evenly etc.

Paul
If weight is everything why on earth did you buy a hunjy? :D

Posted: Wed May 19, 2010 12:35 pm
by CRUSHU
We shopped around a lot for our car trailer, looking for a light weight trailer, so I could fit my F truck on it, and still tow it with a 4by, without overloading.

We ended up with a 15' trailer, with tilt, long drawbar, full checker plate floor, full width, tapered and flat, with drive over wheelarches, and 2800kg rating, for about 550kg, leaving just enough for the F truck.

I agree, weight is everything, from long distance economy, to safety.

Posted: Wed May 19, 2010 9:09 pm
by mud_runner_GQ
my old man has one of these, really good for towing the motorbikes around ;)

Posted: Thu May 20, 2010 8:48 pm
by fester2au
Like Paul said for on road only use especially if you live in a capital where roads are pretty good (generally) no reaosn it should not last if maintained and not abused. My only real concern with manufacturers like this is the habit of issuing the greater load rating. Do they do it to just to satisfy request or are the trailers genuinely capable of that rating. If so why not just put in on in the first place.
I’ll need a reversing camera to see the thing.
Cheaper and lighter is a couple of those push bike safety flags you can get from toy stores. Mount on a spring and hinge system one on each corner. I always threatened to do this to myself before the days of reverse cameras or I used to stand up in the seat and look back to pick up the eges of the tailgate.

Posted: Thu May 20, 2010 11:26 pm
by Eddy
Looks like a nifty little jigger.

One suggestion if I may ...

Replace the light mountings with some motorcycle type rubber mounts ... will pay itself back in less breakages from backing it into the scenery.

Posted: Fri May 21, 2010 11:10 pm
by Bluefreak
me3@neuralfibre.com wrote: It's interesting that trucking companies are using alloy wheels to save weight, so they can increase payload.
Have you ever lifted a 10 stud alloy then a 10 stud steel disc wheel...??? Alloy is for aesthetics, they are heavier than steel...

Posted: Fri May 21, 2010 11:17 pm
by Guy
Bluefreak wrote:
me3@neuralfibre.com wrote: It's interesting that trucking companies are using alloy wheels to save weight, so they can increase payload.
Have you ever lifted a 10 stud alloy then a 10 stud steel disc wheel...??? Alloy is for aesthetics, they are heavier than steel...
yeah .. but you only need 1

Posted: Sat May 22, 2010 12:15 am
by Tiny
love_mud wrote:
Bluefreak wrote:
me3@neuralfibre.com wrote: It's interesting that trucking companies are using alloy wheels to save weight, so they can increase payload.
Have you ever lifted a 10 stud alloy then a 10 stud steel disc wheel...??? Alloy is for aesthetics, they are heavier than steel...
yeah .. but you only need 1
?? in a standard set up you need per side per axle per axle unless you are running super singles but they are rare and I cant remember ever seeing alloys in a super single set up...... and of course the steer axle but they are far narrower than a super single rim

Posted: Sat May 22, 2010 4:36 pm
by Guy
Tiny wrote:
love_mud wrote:
Bluefreak wrote:
me3@neuralfibre.com wrote: It's interesting that trucking companies are using alloy wheels to save weight, so they can increase payload.
Have you ever lifted a 10 stud alloy then a 10 stud steel disc wheel...??? Alloy is for aesthetics, they are heavier than steel...
yeah .. but you only need 1
?? in a standard set up you need per side per axle per axle unless you are running super singles but they are rare and I cant remember ever seeing alloys in a super single set up...... and of course the steer axle but they are far narrower than a super single rim
super singles ( from my very limited experiance) almost always run alloys ..