Outer Limits 4x4 Board

i installed a new clutch on my hilux tonight (91model 3l diesel 5 speed) because the other day it all of a sudden stopped engageing. and when i got the old one out it had one of the springs dislodged and stuck further around. so i replaced clutch, pressure plate, thrust bearing and spigot bearing. put it all back together and now when i start the car with it in gear and the clutch in the car moves forward and wants to take off, but if i put my foot on the brake it stops but doesnt stall. same prob when i start in neutral i cant get it into gear with the engine running.
clutch slave cylinder seems ok and i swapped it with another one i had here and still the same. Clutch master cylinder???

try bleeding the clutch system, may have air in the clutch line

nope theres no air in it, already done that.
is it possible the clutch will take a bit to bed in?

might be a stupid question, did you put the clutch plate in back wards?

Time to bed in, yes in some ways but no way should it let you stand on the brake and it not stall the truck.

I cant get my head around this, possibly because its quarter to 2 in the morning haha.

So if you start the car in neutral or in gear with your foot on the clutch, the truck still tries to drive it foward??, this is near impossible, if you say the clutch is bled sufficiently, Hows the pedal feel?, i'd be bleeding it some more.

What clutch did you put in, there is 2 clutch's for hilux's although they will not bolt on if you have it wrong.

Hey mate it's his brother here we bleed it plenty no air in it at all and the pedal deffinatly feels good
it's almost like the slave cylinder isn't moving enough to push it all the way but we tried a spare one and same story
if you start it in neutral it won't move but you can't select a gear without grinding it and once it grinds it'll take off
it's like there is no clutch if ya start It in gear with foot on clutch

it's got me puzzled I'm thinking maybe mastery cylinder not enough pressure pushing it?

Did you bend the clutch fork somehow?

IF the master cyl is faulty, it will be visibly leaking, sometimes its internal and you can check that by getting someone to depress the pedal, if the fluid in the reservoir rises it is faulty

Short of that, pull the steel inspection plate off the bellhousing and get someone to push the clutch.

All else fails back off it comes.

Confuses me that in gear it will drive the car but only just, and wont let you select, if the clutch is out weather its bled or not it should drive with full clamp pressure on the plate.

Don't these things have an adjustable pushrod on the slave cylinder like the old cruisers? Sounds like you need to adjust to suit new clutch.

i dont think they do, i vaguely remember having to cut down a mates piston in the slave as it was playing silly bugger

Pretty sure there just the simple basic piston, only adjustment on it is for bleeding the fluid.

Do you have any freeplay in the clutch pedal? Assuming not since you said the pedal "definately feels good". Does it improve if you pump the clutch pedal a few times before selecting a gear?

I assume you compared the the old clutch with the new one before installing
and also as some one else stated before is the clutch plate in the right way as there should be a cut away diagram on the box or as a general rule the the boss side of the plate goes to the engine. did it slide home freely or did u pull it in with the bolts or did u check that the new spickot bearing slid over the input shaft before putting in? jst a few suggestions good luck and DNT U HATE THAT lol






cheers jimmy

RAY185 wrote:Don't these things have an adjustable pushrod on the slave cylinder like the old cruisers? Sounds like you need to adjust to suit new clutch.

I would have called this as well, seen it a couple of times now, the push rod is not long enough to throw the new clutch completely free.

Would be the first thing I looked at. Start by putting a spacer between the push rod and throw out fork to see if it fixes the prob, if so extend the pin.

Alternatively, force the throw out fork into the disengaged position (pry bar, etc) before bleeding the slave cylinder, even just 10mm toward the disengaged posi may help.

Cheers

ok so here are the answers. sorry for the delay.
iworked friday whilst making phone calls to get some answers.
somebody told me to try a 5mm spacer in the slave behind the push rod. -no good
there is no inspection place on the ln106 gear box
yes i did put the clutch in correctly (right way around)
there is no adjust ment at the slave cylinder and neither the slave or master was leaking.
i never disturbed the hydraulic line any way until we realised something was wrong so it would not have got the chance to get any air.
as my brother said we swapped the slave for anouther then bled it and was still the same.
cant select a gear with engine running, start the car in gear and it will move forward if you dont stop it, but wont stall when you do stop it with foot or hand brake.

SO THERES ALL THOSE ANSWERS>>>> PHEW
bought a new master cylinder from darbys brake and cluthc on the way home friday night.
open the box when i get home
there is adjustment at the pedal where it connects to the pushrod going into the master.
put my head under the dash
the original master was set up for minimum throw.
undid a clip and a spring
spun it out a few turns (4ish)
put it back together and hey presto thats all it took.

THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR ADVICE.
SO NOW do i install the new master cylinder anyway, or dont fix what aint broke??????

Hence the question about freeplay at the pedal. You would have had a fair amount.

I wouldn't replace the master if adjustment has fixed it.

previous to this i did try extending the pin on the slave cylinder but dont you think this wouldnt make much difference (if any) as its the master cylinder that determines how far the slave moves the pin

ClintzLux wrote:previous to this i did try extending the pin on the slave cylinder but dont you think this wouldnt make much difference (if any) as its the master cylinder that determines how far the slave moves the pin

That's correct but the pin length determines how far the clutch gets disengaged.

Glad you found the solution.

RAY185 wrote:Don't these things have an adjustable pushrod on the slave cylinder like the old cruisers? Sounds like you need to adjust to suit new clutch.

should have listened to this bloke it would have saved you money, when i did the clutch on my ln106 im pretty sure the clutch came with instructions on winding out the pushrod!

james0 wrote:

RAY185 wrote:Don't these things have an adjustable pushrod on the slave cylinder like the old cruisers? Sounds like you need to adjust to suit new clutch.

should have listened to this bloke it would have saved you money, when i did the clutch on my ln106 im pretty sure the clutch came with instructions on winding out the pushrod!

Yes but he is talking about the slave cylinder and the OP has an adjustable master cylinder.

Cheers