Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I have a 92 4runner with the 3.0l V6 which has around 5-6 inches of lift but am struggling with flex front and rear. (2 inches body lift, front BJ spacers, 2.5 inch rear spring spacers and 2 inch suspension lift f+r plus adjustable rear panhard and rear brake proportional valve corrected)

Obviously the front is IFS and i have heard that you can get more flex by just removing the front sway bars?! I already have upper ball joint spacers fitted as well. Does anyone know if its safe to drive around with front sway bars removed altogether or do people generally install disconnects?

As for the rear, i've also heard drop the rear sway bar.. Again is it safe to remove altogether or are disconnects the way to go here as well?

Im guessing longer shocks will be needed to make the most of the flex in the rear? I already have extended brake lines in the rear in preperation.

Will this affect the rear handbrake lines?

So main questions are:

1 Can i remove front and rear sway bars alltogether or are disconnects the way to go?
2. Will longer shocks in the rear give me the flex i need?
3. Will this affect my rear handbrake lines or will they flex/move as needed with the lift i have?

Heres max droop i have now...

Had a similar setup to you on mine, but with more flex.

1. Yes you can remove both sway bays, wont be legal but. You will get more flex front and rear, and it'll ride so much better. Will have a little more bodyroll, but its nothing too extreme.

2. Yep, i removed mine and measured the mounts to fit the longest shock possible, gained a heap of flex. Will dig out these measurements up for you and post them up.

3. Handbrake line will be fine. Brake line will need to be extended.

Also rear drivers side upper arm will hit the fuel tank on full droop, mine ended up bending. I had them sleeved with some thicker tube, and they were fine then.

Pics of my old runner flexin.

Old build thread, shock measurements are on the first page.
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/phpBB2/ftopic111975-0.php

Thanks for the heads up Twisty...

Loved the work you did to your runner mate. Looks awesome! I'd like to look at doing the lexus V8 conversion myself later down the track..

Can i bend/move/mod the fuel tank to stop the upper arm hitting or is it inevitable?

By the way.. Where did the 4runner end up??

Latitude777 wrote:Thanks for the heads up Twisty...

Loved the work you did to your runner mate. Looks awesome! I'd like to look at doing the lexus V8 conversion myself later down the track..

Can i bend/move/mod the fuel tank to stop the upper arm hitting or is it inevitable?

By the way.. Where did the 4runner end up??

Read to the end of the build up thread linked above and you'll see.

Pretty much the arm hitting the tank is inevatable, only way to change it would be to maybe go to a 3 link + panhard instead of the 5 link setup. (Ie. remove the drivers side upper arm, and do a new beefier upper arm on the passenger side or centre).

I'd just beef the arms up and run it but.

Yeah not keen on doing any major reworks on the rear end.. Just want some more articulation.. Its still a daily driver. More Flex will save me having to spend out on a rear locker for the time being. With a baby on the way... i doubt a locker will be in there any time soon!

As for your "ex"-runner.. Cant wait to see pics!

Cheers for your help again.

Looks pretty simple, shocks are way too short.

As for the tank, I got under and 'massaged' the lip down that hits the upper arm, allowed for anoth inch or so movement without fouling...

on my surf i just pulled the rear sway bar out and put the longest gass (less body role im told) shox in i could find... works a treat.. haven't got new pan hard rod yet and you have extended break lines so its all good

Latitude777 wrote:Can i bend/move/mod the fuel tank to stop the upper arm hitting or is it inevitable?

If the room allows it, why not cut the arm and weld in a 45* pipe bend. That's what's on my mav to clear the sub tank on full flex... amongst a few other slight improvements

For now I'll just gently massage to lip on the fuel tank n ditch my sway bars.. Rancho shocks will follow.

-Nemesis- wrote:Looks pretty simple, shocks are way too short.

As for the tank, I got under and 'massaged' the lip down that hits the upper arm, allowed for anoth inch or so movement without fouling...

As above, with the longer shocks, longer brake lines and disconnect the sway bar... then you will have heaps of flex

brad

With what you have in the front, ditch the rear coils & spacers and replace with 2nd hand factory 80 series rear coils, or aftermarket (Dobbinson or Lovells) std height 80 series rear (progressive rate) if you carry a bit of weight.

Mine with 80 rear coils & 33's ..


Expect some "rear steer" due to the short conrtol arms, but it's easy to adjust your lines to compensate and sometimes helps you
When you fit the taller coils, release the tension on the control arm bushes so there is no twist in the bushes when at the new ride height.

You won't get any more flex from the IFS than what you have unless you move or modify the bump stops or fit longer control arms & CV's.

what year 80 series springs do i need?

Well i removed both front a rear sway bars today.. Nice change actually. Like you said Twisty... Rides much better.. A little more body roll in the corners (not worth worrying about) and it rides softer on the road too. You dont get the jerkiness from the sway bars kickin you about..

Didnt change much in the flex department in the rear (looks like its definately a shock thing) and its let the front move freely now, i can get the front wheels right up into the guards without any hassle at all now.

As soon as the budget allows the rear will get a nice workover.. ditch the spring spacers for a set of 80 series coils and a pair of decent shocks.

Probably wouldn't hurt to remove your rear shocks and flex it up, that way at least you'll have more of a definitive idea?

Narrowscopeofreality wrote:Probably wouldn't hurt to remove your rear shocks and flex it up, that way at least you'll have more of a definitive idea?

If you click on twistys link and have a read he did just that. Removed sway bars n shocks and made a huge difference. My sway bars are gone, pretty sure it's just shocks limiting my travel now.

So as it turns out i went for a drive last weekend and lost one of the lower shock bolts.. (meaning my shock was purely hanging from the top mount and swinging about doing nothing.)
So as luck would have it (or planning) i had my tools, flexed up on a log and jumped in underneath and took the sucker out for the remainder of the trip.

So the result, besides the obvious jumping/bouncing and squatting the rear end started to do... i was able to climb over/through effortlessly, things i had not been able to up until this point. I think i have lost around 12-14 inches of downward rear travel with the shocks currently on my truck. Lift without adequate replacement of shocks doesnt help...

So the order went in for the new RS500 ranchos today. Will be in the truck asap with pics to follow.
WATCH THIS SPACE... Flex is on its way....

Shocks turned up. Woohoo for flex.. Finally have what i was after. Now i can enjoy some decent driving..

Went with some standard 4 inch lift RS500's and they seem to allow the axle to travel all the way until the springs are loose so should be fine. Tail shaft has started hitting the fuel tank protector, but only requires some minor shaving to clear that one. Everything else seems ok so far!

Here's some pics...

That's lookin much better

With the fuel tank lov'in, Twisty designed a drop panhard bracket that works well with an adjustable panhard rod.
This lowers the chassis pivot point of the panhard which reduces the swing of the rear axle from side to side.
For the lift we have, I would suggest making the new pivot point in the bracket an extra 40-50mm lower. So long as it does not poke below the diff/axle when the drivers side is fully compressed then all good.
I have been running this for a while now and has not bent, cracked, moved the bracket or any existing mounts.

@ Dougster

Thanks for the heads up. Havent gotten around to modding anything with the rear tank yet. was going to grind away some of the lip on the tank protector first and see if that gives me enough clearance to avoid having to fit a drop bracket.. Any thoughts?

Just noticed as well. it looks like you havent got a drop bracket or adjustable rear panhards on any of the pics you posted above? How did you manage this with this much lift?

Yea, do the lip of the tank a little.
I do have an adjustable panhard in the pics and fitted a drop panhard bracket later to fix the tank loving of the drive shaft.
You will need to do all of these to get it right as they each do/allow different things.

Sweet as. Thanks for your help mate.

By the way.. Took the beast out for a quick bash this weekend.. Bloody hell there was a huge difference! I cant believe what I've been missing out on! Its like the old girl has come alive!!!