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MJ Triton bodylift
Posted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 12:55 am
by VHPirie
Done a search and looked through other threads on here, but can't find too much info on lifting the body on an MJ Triton.
I'm looking at getting this kit.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... 805wt_1137
But as I'm only lifting the cab and not the tray (can do that myself), he said it will cost $110 plus $16 postage for the 6 blocks.
My question is.....what else would I need to buy for the bodylift?
I can move the radiator down, and hopefully bend the brake lines enough, but what about the steering column? Does anyone know if it will be ok somehow, or would I need some sort of extension? If so, where would I purchase one from?
Posted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 11:58 am
by Spicoli
They bodylift easy as hell. I've done two 3in to similar models only thing I had to do was wack the trans tunnel down so I could get all my gears.
Brakelines n steering don't worry bout em.
Posted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 5:10 pm
by 57oky
I agree with Spicoli, dont need to touch the steering or brake lines as I have also done a 2 '' body lift on the MJ with the only worry being the gearbox selectors fouling the tunnel, I purchased the exact same kit from EBAY from the same bloke and there is nothing else to spend, good kit. The brake lines should be coiled up in the engine bay so there is plenty there, and with the radiator, just unclip the bottom of the shroud and threre is no need to lower it
Posted: Wed Jun 02, 2010 8:37 am
by VHPirie
Thx guys will let ya know how it goes.
Got in contact with the seller this morning and he's put the kit I need on ebay, so will buy it 2night when my pay goes in.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Mitsubishi-Trito ... 805wt_1137
Can't wait to chuck it in!
Posted: Wed Jun 02, 2010 10:48 am
by Spicoli
57oky wrote:I agree with Spicoli, dont need to touch the steering or brake lines as I have also done a 2 '' body lift on the MJ with the only worry being the gearbox selectors fouling the tunnel, I purchased the exact same kit from EBAY from the same bloke and there is nothing else to spend, good kit. The brake lines should be coiled up in the engine bay so there is plenty there, and with the radiator, just unclip the bottom of the shroud and threre is no need to lower it
Yo mate wered ya get your snorkel at if that's your mitsi in your avatar? I can't get one ffrom arb here in the states
Posted: Thu Jun 03, 2010 7:38 pm
by 57oky
hey mate, yeah that is my Triton in the avatar, I got my snorkel from EBAY. They are called AIRFLOW, They are an Australian company and Australian made but the quality is not as good as the big name brands but no problems yet....... Ive got some more details here but it wont let me post em, let me know how you go ey
Posted: Fri Jun 04, 2010 2:52 am
by Spicoli
Is it made out of a fiberglass or the fancy material like ARBs?
Posted: Fri Jun 04, 2010 4:29 am
by 57oky
No, its made out of the same plastics as the rest, just the quality isnt the same, its a good kit but, dont get me wrong, cheaper as well. my only real concern was the connections that are supplied to go to the airbox, arnt model specific and I ended up having to make up an adapter to suit, no biggy, but that should have been taken care of already........... other than that no probs AS YET.........
Posted: Mon Jun 07, 2010 11:10 pm
by VHPirie
Well the new blocks arrived this morning. Will post pics up when they're in!
Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 10:52 pm
by VHPirie
All done. Took me and a mate an hour and a half from start to finish. Only things we had to do were bend the bottom of the radiator shroud a fraction, and bend a bit of the edge down on the rear of the gear lever hole. Need to sort sumfin out with the rubber boots tho, coz of the extra travel they have to do, it won't stay in 2nd, or 2wd, coz the boot pops them back. Have had to leave the front of the boot unscrewed so there's no pressure on it, until I sort sumfin out. Other then those issues, only had to loosen the nuts on the old mounts, pulled them out on one side, jacked it up, put the blocks in with the new bolts, lowered it back down, tightened them, then done the other side, then went over them all at the end for good measure.
Posted: Wed Jun 09, 2010 11:35 am
by 57oky
lookin better, I also had the same issues with the rubber boots restricting movement, and did the same thing(not tighten them down), hoping to do it later, but never got around to it ha ha, no water in the cab so far.......
I also had 2 blocks left over in the kit, so i used tham to raise the bumper, you could look into something like that maybe. I myself didnt like that gap between the grill and the bumper. but I have recently replaced the bumper with a TJM bullbar so they wernt on there long.
Posted: Wed Jun 09, 2010 1:28 pm
by VHPirie
Next pay I wanna buy some steel and have a go at making my own bar. I hate the one on there at the moment. Just wanna use some rectangle tubing for the majority of the front, then run 2 rows of round tube off the end and around the fender, and do that on both sides. Then wanna make a nice bash plate to go down underneath....that should do the trick I rekon. Just not sure how it's gonna turn out. I can weld alright....just not to good using my pipe bender lol.
Speco do universal boots, might buy 2 of those and try and fit them up.
Posted: Wed Jun 09, 2010 4:01 pm
by 57oky
post up some pics when your done, wouldnt mind seeing how it turns out. I'm half way through a bash plate also... good luck with it
Posted: Sat Jun 12, 2010 3:50 pm
by VHPirie
Just lookin at some lift kits, can only find 40mm kits with the exception of one which is a 2" but its brand is 'Robust' which I've never heard of. Anyone know if they're ok or not?
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/4WD-SUSPENSION-L ... 1415wt_911
Posted: Sun Jun 13, 2010 3:28 pm
by 57oky
for that amount of money, you can go down to your local ARB, or 4x4 shop and get Old Man Emu suspension, thats tailor made for your ute and the loads you carry, including fitting! I know this is 'rough', but have thought of winding up your torsion bars at all? I got 33s under mine with a mild torsion lift and 2inch body lift...
Posted: Sun Jun 13, 2010 8:14 pm
by -Scott-
I agree with 57oky. Too much money, and why do you want new torsion bars?
Unless you have a winch your standard torsion bars will be fine - and significantly cheaper.
So the shock absorbers in that kit won't be suited to standard torsion bars, so you should go elsewhere.
You can have standard leaf springs re-set to provide the lift you want, and it should be cheaper than buying a complete new spring set. However, I don't know where you would do that in SA.
But personally, I would definitely get a price from ARB. I have had OME suspension for 7 or 8 years, and it hasn't let me down.
Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2010 12:31 am
by VHPirie
I need new shocks, the current ones are stuffed. As for the torsion bars, I'm a big lad and thought better ones would hold up a bit better then the stock ones. I wound the stock ones up the other day when we done the bodylift. Just figured more lift would be better.
But yeah not 100% sure yet, if the 33's fit with no problems I might not worry about it, and just get the new shocks. Hopefully can order the 33's this week. Still shopping around. Apparently a mate of a mate can get 33" Silverstone MT117 sports for $200 each...told my mate to double check the figure, and if so, will order them asap.
Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2010 11:03 am
by Jonezy01
VHPirie wrote:I need new shocks, the current ones are stuffed. As for the torsion bars, I'm a big lad and thought better ones would hold up a bit better then the stock ones. I wound the stock ones up the other day when we done the bodylift. Just figured more lift would be better.
But yeah not 100% sure yet, if the 33's fit with no problems I might not worry about it, and just get the new shocks. Hopefully can order the 33's this week. Still shopping around. Apparently a mate of a mate can get 33" Silverstone MT117 sports for $200 each...told my mate to double check the figure, and if so, will order them asap.
33" Silverstone MT117 sports for $200ea if you can get them at that price get a couple of sets. I think you will find that price is for the original Silverstones(BFG Pattern) not the sports could be wrong though.
I think you will find that to fit 33's you will need to do suspension aswell, as 33's dont even come close to fitting on my ute with a 2 " lift. But let us no how ya go.
Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2010 11:10 am
by epitrochoid
fit new shocks and leave the stock torsion bars in it for now. fit your new bullbar and wait a few months to see if the original torsion bars sag any more with the weight of the bullbar. if they do sag just re-index them to get more adjustment back.
Unless you have a steel bullbar, winch, brushbars, sidesteps, extra battery etc you don't need thicker torsion bars.
just remember, those mt-117 tyres will be great off road but on road performance is a bit ordinary.
be prepared for a noticeable power loss running bigger tyres as well.
Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2010 2:40 pm
by 57oky
theres definetly a power loss and more fuel consumtion, its always something to consider. With the 33s, I had to do minor guard chop for them to fit, nothing to major, being a ute it has bugger all flex anyway
Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2010 8:08 pm
by VHPirie
I lost me licence a while ago and still got a few years to go, so it's mainly just for offroad. Me bro drives it around sometimes, but we live in a small country town, so mud tyres on there aren't a huge issue. Other then that it's just the occasional drive to Adelaide which is 2hrs away.
Today in the hills I went down a creek and yeah just about collected every rock in there haha. I added a second battery the other week, and my new bar will be steel, but hopefully not heaps heavy. But yeah think I'll hold off on the lift for a while until I see how it goes with the new treads.
I'm not sure wat the older tread style is, but my mate sent me a pic of the tyres and said they were silverstone, and I new wat the tread pattern was....can't get the pic to copy off me phone, but they're the same as this.
I'm not sure exactly where they come from, I'm getting them through a mate of a mate who gets them directly from the importer apparently. And he said the 31's were $170, and said the 33's would be around $200, but he hasn't found out for sure yet so could me more. Hopefully can find out 2morrow for sure on the price.
As for power loss and fuel consumption, that doesn't bother me at all. Like I said, it's just mainly for off road, and I guess if the power loss is alot I'll just up the boost or sumfin lol, but don't think it would matter that much.
Thx for the replies guys. Will keep ya's updated.
On another note....I ripped half the outside door skin off on the passenger door 2day lol. Had a snatch strap on the front and had it going over the bonnet, wrapped it around the side mirror, then had it going in the window...and well yeah it slipped off the bonnet, went under the wheel and ripped the mirror off (well it tried to, they're attached to good), but the skin come with it lol. My first battle scar!
bodylift
Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 5:12 am
by wingy
how did you go with the 33's fittin under it??
not sure but I think you will find you need a suspension lift as well as bodylift to fit 33's
I got an 04 triton and I had to do both so the the 33's would fit
only mods i haf to make was extend the clutch and brake lines and take a bit out of the console around the gear stick so it stayed in the gears while driving
Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 3:52 pm
by VHPirie
Short vid of a few things we done yesterday...including me ripping the door skin half off haha.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TyWBxmCDlmY
Posted: Wed Jun 16, 2010 8:33 am
by VHPirie
What would be the best offset wheel to use on my Triton to make the 33's fit the best? The guy who can get the Silverstones isn't very quick at getting prices, and was gonna be a 2 week wait anyway, so now gonna order some 33" Maxxis bighorns.
My next problem is rims. Only spare sunnies we got are 2 out the back, and I need a full set by 2morrow night when I get the tyres fitted. Would it be better getting a big offset to stick the wheels out further to help minimise the risk of scrubbing? Might just order new sunnies, but not sure wat offset to get.
Posted: Wed Jun 16, 2010 9:38 am
by VHPirie
Talked to the guy I'm getting them through, and he's gonna get me some 15x8 sunnies, and hopefully they'll fit with no drama's. Will be here 2morrow, fitting them up 2morrow night...will let ya's know how they go.
Posted: Thu Jun 17, 2010 9:40 pm
by VHPirie
The 33's don't fit properly, but only require a bit of panel to be chopped out at the rear of the front quarters. Chopped some out, but need to go more so I can turn properly.
Also the start of me new front bar.
Posted: Fri Jun 18, 2010 5:06 am
by wingy
what offset did you end up gettin??
I got 15x8 sunnies with a cruiser offset
it only scrubbed on the bullbar so I had to get a bit taken out of the wheel arch so they didnt scrub
I got 33' maxxis bighorns
they are a good tyre
Posted: Fri Jun 18, 2010 7:03 am
by VHPirie
Not sure wat offset. The guy said he got them to suit the Triton, but got them in the 8", as the extra inch is on the front of the rim so will make it fit better.
I think I wanna try and re-index the torsion bars to jack it up a bit more. It's still lower in the front then the rear, so will give that a shot I rekon.
Posted: Fri Jun 18, 2010 10:34 am
by 57oky
its amazing what a little lift and some 33s can do, looks heaps better! how much were the maxxis bighorns, I was looking at getting them as my BFGs are almost shagged. is there much road noise?
Posted: Fri Jun 18, 2010 5:06 pm
by VHPirie
All up it cost me $1200 for the 4 33x12.5R15 Bighorns, fitted, balanced and a wheel alignment. And the 15x8 black sunnies were $64 each new.
Only drove the Triton home which is a 2 minute drive from the shop which we got them thru so not sure about the noise......altho me bro only just got a set in the same size about a month ago on his Mav shorty, and well ya can definitely hear them on the road, but neither of us find it annoying or anything. Haven't driven very far with them on his either tho lol.