Outer Limits 4x4 Board

hi everyone
on my hj47 i have problems with axle studs breaking from time to time ( to often in my opinion)
the axles are turning 33x12.5 muddies but im not convinced this is the problem

do i have a bent axle or does my hub need replacing?
i have heard from someone to place a spirit level on each side of the diff and see if the result from he bubble varys.
is this true?

or is there other ways to determine my problem?

thankyou

You need to put the axle on v-blocks and have a dial gauge on the flange to check the run-out. Any diff shop should be able to check for you.

Could be a few things, bent axel, bent housing, worn bearings, a problem with the axel flange on the hub, incorrect fastners or installation. When you have previously broken the studs did you replace the hub?

Are axle studs wheel studs? or something else?

could be your wheels as well or even you wheel nuts, have you got alloys? are you wheel nuts too shallow causing them to pull on the wheel studs? stressing them out ???

scanas - axle studs are floating axle studs

I had the same thing in my 75 series and a few others. When you snap your axle studs and dowls the axle flange warps and will never seal again propperly after that "oil leaks, and a clicking sound". You can get a bit longer out of it if you hear it clicking and re tighten your floating axle bolts. Ive even tried fully welding mine in once with enough clearance to still fit my wheels on.

Its not the bolts that take the pressure its the 2 dowls that hold most of the weight. And those studs, cone washers etc add up in $$$ when it does it all the time. Its usually the short side axle that does it. Defiantely get your housing checked and throw a new axle on there. Then upgrade and re thread your hubs with new bigger high tensile studs. Also "if you have a drill press" add another pair of dowls, or even fill up the gaps with them . My supercharged 4.5 75series, with a detroit used to snap and spit axles ALL the bloody time. The locker played a part in shearing the bolts. But this is what I found fixed the problem for good.
Cheers

i was considering upgrading to the 100 series axle studs, but didnt want to waste time/money if i had a bent housing etc and start breaking 100 series studs.

another thing to consider is that im not using genuine toyota studs as i cant afford them.

but i think i will go down to the diff shop and see if they will have a look at it for me.

thanks everyone

Now I'm really confused someone show me a picture of an axle stud, google just pulls up wheel studs

SCANAS wrote:Now I'm really confused someone show me a picture of an axle stud, google just pulls up wheel studs

2nd & 3rd from top left toyota type


and this is the b-tards in place the ones in the foreground

does that help ?!?

pig in shit wrote:i was considering upgrading to the 100 series axle studs, but didnt want to waste time/money if i had a bent housing etc and start breaking 100 series studs.

another thing to consider is that im not using genuine toyota studs as i cant afford them.

but i think i will go down to the diff shop and see if they will have a look at it for me.

thanks everyone

I ended up using high tensile allen key bolts that are rated higher than the genuine studs. Got them from coventry fastners. The threads get sloppy after you easy out the broken studs about 4 times. Thats another reason I upgrade to the larger studs. But a bent housing is half the battle.

MrGrim wrote:

Whats that axle shaft? Looks like a non-factory configuration..

looks like the steer axel

TheBigBoy wrote:

pig in shit wrote:i was considering upgrading to the 100 series axle studs, but didnt want to waste time/money if i had a bent housing etc and start breaking 100 series studs.

another thing to consider is that im not using genuine toyota studs as i cant afford them.

but i think i will go down to the diff shop and see if they will have a look at it for me.

thanks everyone

I ended up using high tensile allen key bolts that are rated higher than the genuine studs. Got them from coventry fastners. The threads get sloppy after you easy out the broken studs about 4 times. Thats another reason I upgrade to the larger studs. But a bent housing is half the battle.

how big were the studs you got from coventry fasteners?

Same as stock but a higher tensile. Then I got an upgrade hub kit here on the net. Ill try and find 1 for you.

http://locktup4x4.com.au/hilux-solid-fr ... e-580.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

But the ones I got where a larger dia than 10mm which involve drilling and tapping. I couldnt find any during my quick search

Make sure your bearings are pre-loaded correctly otherwise you will only shear off your new u-beaut bolts. The best set up I ended up installing was as follows:

The blind holes in the hub face were deepened and enlarged to suit an M10x1.25 and counterbored @ 10mm to about 10mm depth and using a shanked m10x1.25x40, the shank pulls through the conical washers, axle and into the hub eliminating the shear point of the end of the thread at the hub face. This proved to be very strong and reliable and I never had them come loose or break for that matter.

Information for all, the dowels in the hub face do nothing but locate the axle while you install the studs/bolts and conical washers. It is the friction of the axle to hub that takes any driven load and this is applied by the clamping pressure of the studs/ bolts. Besides that the dowels are only made of key steel which is not high tensile anyway.

Rowen

finally getting around to fix this.

i have a spare diff housing i was told was straight, 2 new rear hubs and new studs.
also getting the bearings set right.
should i get the diff checked so i know im putting in a straight diff??
OR should i just put new hubs on and get bearings set and new studs and hope it works??

hoping this fixes the problem forever